Cambridge 640P Power Supply Upgrade


So I bought a Pangea P100 for my DACMagic (made it better)and figured, hey, one "wall wart" down, lets see if my 640P can use some improvement. So I ordered another Pangea (the name sounds like a holistic skin treatment, which I think there actually is). After a couple of days of use the Pangea PS seems to kick the 640P up to another level altogether...I now can highly recommend this cheap tweek. Interestingly (to me anyway), the stock 640P "wart" PS ran kinda warm and the P100 doesn't. I think that means something, doesn't it?
wolf_garcia

Showing 10 responses by wolf_garcia

Nothing special...a carefully set up Linn Basik/Akito/Sumiko Pearl (upgrade coming as soon as I decide what to replace it with...not in any hurry as it sounds fine). I don't use any esoteric power cables as I have never noticed them improving anything beyond what my trusty ACE515 does...and I've tried! I did put a PS Audio AC plug in the wall though. Note that I thought the 640P sounded great already, just cleaner with the P100. Maybe I'm merely hypnotized by the blue LEDs!
Hey Woodrow...You're making my addled brain fog up...I'm not sure what you mean about the 640P as from what I see the inputs are marked as 12 volts on both the 640P and the DACMagic, and both original wall wart power supplies (that I just looked at in their new homes in my cold basement) are marked as "12 volt AC". There is one output on the P100. Right square in the middle of its face...and having lived with 2 of these little gems for a while I can say wholeheartedly they ROCK. Interestingly (to me anyway), Sam Tellig raves about them in his latest Stereophile screed which will no doubt sell a few thousand of 'em. The P100 makes my 640P better...both in sound (truly) and the sense of self worth instilled in the 640P itself, as I think my gear has feelings. I'm hopping Pangea comes up with more of these things for my other gear (Squeezebox Touch, Bravo II, all the non AC Cord stomp boxes in my guitar setup, etc.) as I'd like to see wall warts disappear from the world as I know it.
Woodrow...you're correct in that the P100 has both ac and dc output based on what cable is used. See? I learned something!
I talked to Audio Advisor a while back (couple of months ago maybe) and asked that exact question...they told me that the P100 would work with the "plus" once they designed a cable to fit it. I suggest calling Audio Advisor for an update on that.
Oh...and I bet plugging it into a conditioner (which I do) makes little difference as it is actually a conditioner itself, and doesn't use much juice.
Hey Hey Willie...It may be that they run cooler, although they didn't run very hot with the stock "warts"...they certainly run better though. My only compaint regards the super bright blue LEDs on the Pangeas, but I put a little tube headphone amp in front of them and it blocks the light from my eyeballs at my listening sweet spot.
I'm using a Jelco Mogami Neglex pair (friggin' hot pink...looks sort of cool actually) that came with a gold plated DIN plug and seemingly nice RCAs from my Linn/Akito table, and a pair of AQ King Cobras out...all sounds great.
I have a garden hose sized PS Audio Plasma ac cable on my REL sub directly into a PS Audio wall plug, but no exotic AC cables anywhere else (yet)...although my Jolida power amp does have something somebody gave me that is a fairly huge cable...no name I can see on it. I still use an old Adcom ACE515 conditioner which has a beefy hard wired cable that was appropriate for its day, and it will remain in my system until it dies. Two power amps (Jolida main and an occasionally used Adcom MOSFET for secondary deck speakers) are plugged into a PS Audio Humbuster III.
The cable on the Adcom is fixed and I'm too lazy put an IEC thing on it, and the "mystery" cable on the Jolida seems OK also (I did hook up the PS Audio cable to it just for the heck of it and it sounded the same so its cable seems OK). The Humbuster did what it is supposed to...the Adcom is dead quiet and the Jolida trans hum is really low...barely audible if you put your ear right next to it and that's great for a tube amp. I might put some premium AC cables on the rig someday, but since I'd have to re-wire the 515 (and spend some bucks) it seems silly, and the whole thing sounds great as is. Go figure.