Are you running some custom built / commissioned Blue Hawaii, a Mjolnir Audio (Iceland) Blue Hawaii, an older Headamp Blue Hawaii (circa early/mid 2000s), or the more modern Headamp Blue Hawaii SE? Just curious.
The warnings against KT77 are correct - don’t do that. I found the late 1950s / early 1960s Amperex (Holland) brown-base EL34 to sound absolutely superb (xf5 and xf6 codes). Much better than the 1970s Mullards (xf3 and xf4 codes), which were too dark, warm, thick. However some will prefer the warm Mullards with 009 because they find those headphones too bright or analytical - personally I say that if you prefer Mullards with 009, then those headphones are probably not for you, and you should just go for the 007 at that point.The Blue Hawaii pairs wonderfully with both 007 and 009. But 009 with Amperex EL34 tubes was my favorite.
And either way, the 009 with any Blue Hawaii isn’t going to be able to compete with high-end planar bass. It can yield satisfying bass, it’s not AWOL like with some of the Sony MDR-R10, but you’ll have to see if you find great value in the electrostatics’ speed and purity of sound to favor it over the many alternatives available today. When the Blue Hawaii was in its heyday, I don’t think there was any reasonable dynamic setup to compete with it. Classic amp, still a great alternative, and still MILES better than any of the Stax-branded amps! You know of the Stax-mafia DIY T2 builds, right? Those are crazy, rare and expensive, but they do achieve that one exquisite level of sound quality higher than even a Blue Hawaii SE. The Blue Hawaii was Dr. Kevin Gilmore's first attempt a recreating the original Stax T2 amplifier, "blind" before he got hold of an actual T2 amp and cloned (and improved - the original had a few serious flaws) it for the DIY T2 project.
Also agree the "Siemens" EL34 are nothing special (not worth $500 a quad, certainly), though I’d not used them in the Blue Hawaii SE. The Russian re-issue Mullard EL34 are quite serviceable tubes for cheap, until you source a good vintage set.
The warnings against KT77 are correct - don’t do that. I found the late 1950s / early 1960s Amperex (Holland) brown-base EL34 to sound absolutely superb (xf5 and xf6 codes). Much better than the 1970s Mullards (xf3 and xf4 codes), which were too dark, warm, thick. However some will prefer the warm Mullards with 009 because they find those headphones too bright or analytical - personally I say that if you prefer Mullards with 009, then those headphones are probably not for you, and you should just go for the 007 at that point.The Blue Hawaii pairs wonderfully with both 007 and 009. But 009 with Amperex EL34 tubes was my favorite.
And either way, the 009 with any Blue Hawaii isn’t going to be able to compete with high-end planar bass. It can yield satisfying bass, it’s not AWOL like with some of the Sony MDR-R10, but you’ll have to see if you find great value in the electrostatics’ speed and purity of sound to favor it over the many alternatives available today. When the Blue Hawaii was in its heyday, I don’t think there was any reasonable dynamic setup to compete with it. Classic amp, still a great alternative, and still MILES better than any of the Stax-branded amps! You know of the Stax-mafia DIY T2 builds, right? Those are crazy, rare and expensive, but they do achieve that one exquisite level of sound quality higher than even a Blue Hawaii SE. The Blue Hawaii was Dr. Kevin Gilmore's first attempt a recreating the original Stax T2 amplifier, "blind" before he got hold of an actual T2 amp and cloned (and improved - the original had a few serious flaws) it for the DIY T2 project.
Also agree the "Siemens" EL34 are nothing special (not worth $500 a quad, certainly), though I’d not used them in the Blue Hawaii SE. The Russian re-issue Mullard EL34 are quite serviceable tubes for cheap, until you source a good vintage set.