@audioengr , Steve thanks for the informative posts. I used to think it was just X’s and O’s also , but it’s not . It’s actually complex as you’ve shown . Your comments are very informative and extremely POLITE. I’ve parused your website and it’s obvious what you’re capable of doing . As a budget driven mid-fi, I’m extremly grateful that you threw out the affordable DIY stuff . It’s refreshing to see promotion of this wonderful hobby on a multi level / multi price platform . Thank you for schooling me . Also thanks to the other people in this thread . I’m running a Windows PC via a Cardas Usb to a Schiit Yiggy . I know there’s plenty of room for improvement . I just ordered a USB Disruptor . Next I will build a “ Kit” and then I will seriously consider your products . By the time I get to your house , I’ll have spent minimal money , but have learned plenty . From what I’ve heard , yours will be a greater improvement. But the $300 I spend on two projects first , will be a cheap education tool . Regards , Mike B.
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No corruption of bits occurs. The noise that is induced on the receiving system results in noise on power supplies and ground planes, which changes the timing of the logic, resulting in distortion in the D/A conversion. Steve N. Empirical Audio |
Jitter is the variability in the timing of the presentation of each new data bit or word as presented to the D/A circuit/chip for conversion. These bits/words ideally are presented to the D/A at precise time intervals depending on the sample-rate of the data stream. These time intervals are all equal over a long period of time, but from one to the next, these intervals vary. They are only precise over a long period such as seconds. The more the time intervals vary, the more distortion is introduced into the D/A conversion. This is jitter. Just like errors in the voltage can introduce distortion, short-term errors in the timing can introduce distortion. D/A conversion comprises several actions: 1) a voltage is generated based on a data word 2) a timing of the presentation of that voltage is reproduced 3) filtering of the "stairsteps’ in time that result Steve N. Empirical Audio |
Steve N., are you saying that the "noise" carried by the USB cable corrupts the bits that the "receiving system" decodes, or are you saying the noise enters in to the "Receiving system", bypasses the decoding function (because the USB interface only accepts bits), and then rejoins the signal at some point and ultimately corrupts the analog signal being output? If the latter, doesn't any "receiving system" fall prey to this pitfall from any media source? |
Sorry, but things are never this simple. Common-mode noise on the USB interface and cable can easily induce noise in the receiving system, resulting in more jitter. This does happen, because USB interfaces sound better with common-mode noise fixes like filters and galvanic isolation. Ground-loop noise will further exacerbate this. This effect happens even though there is some common-mode noise rejection by the differential signaling on the USB cable. These receivers are never perfect. Also, the edge-rates of the USB signals can affect the receivers slew-rate, which can impact jitter. I am only talking about jitter, not data corruption here. Steve N. Empirical Audio |
Ethernet or WiFi. Get a stand-alone interface, DAC or server with Ethernet interface, either a DLNA endpoint or a Roon RAAT endpoint. Best SQ I have found is using Twonky or Minimserver using Linn Kinsky to a DLNA endpoint. I have designed 6 generations of USB interfaces and Ethernet is better. Here is a recent comparison I did: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=155232.0 You can use any computer, Mac or PC to stream to a DLNA endpoint. You can also get Roon Ready endoint devices and stream to them from Roon software. If you don’t mind a little DIY, you can get a Raspberry Pi board and a SD memory card on Amazon.com and a Digione Hat board and have a DLNA or Roon endpoint in an afternoon for about $150. Everything you need to know is online. This will output S/PDIF to your DAC. If no DIY talent, then get a Sonos Connect and a Synchro-Mesh reclocker to drive low-jitter S/PDIF to your DAC. You can use Roon, Twonky, Minimserver, Sonos and other software to stream your music to the Sonos. you can stream Tidal too. Steve N. Empirical Audio |
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I'm using a Mytek Brooklyn to stream Tidal. I've tried multiple USB cables in a blind test and found HUGE differences between them. Image was the biggest impact. The one I use is custom made so that's not going to help you much but it's OCC Silver. Big investment but worth every penny. I encourage you to research hi end USB's... |
@mswobo, I am with @kalali. There are much better inexpensive options to stream music nowadays instead of relying on your laptop. Unless you’re willing to treat that USB signal with a external reclocker and isolate the noise, you’re better off starting with something like Bluesound Node 2. I don’t know your rest of the system, but you have a very decent DAC. All you need is a dedicated streamer and Node 2 will give you the convenient and easy ‘noise’ free streaming experience. If you do decide to go Node 2 route, I would suggest buy a Digital Coax cable to connect your DAC with Node 2. The Node 2 has a very decent internal DAC but it’s probably not as good as Brooklyn. I heard Empirical Audio sells a killer Digital Coax cable under $300. Hope this helps! |
There are also gadgets that are placed inline that claim to improve the USB signal by reducing jitter. Schiit Wyrd is a reasonably priced option for $99. As always, there are much more expensive options that reclock the signal and may improve the sound. With your current set up, at the minimum you should run your PC on battery and not on AC since the PC power supply adds a lot of measured noise to the signal. |
There are lots of options, limited only by your budget and desire/ability to tinker. You have the bare minimum setup and it can certainly be improved. The Computer Audiophile forums are a good place to discuss with folks who are open to these issues and have lots of experience. I went from a Windows laptop to a server to a better server, used different cables, added external signal improvement devices, and linear power supplies. Each was a substantial improvement to the sound. Streamers are also a possible route, and these can also vary from a simple basic setup to a more complex one, with similar sound quality improvements at each step. |
No, and it is perfectly fine the way it is. The only alternative is to bypass the laptop and use a separate streamer like, e.g., the Chromecast Audio, the Apple Airport Express or the Sonos Connect. These all have optical digital outputs, apart from the analogue outputs that use their internal DACs. |