Best tube amp for electrostatic speakers


For over 35 years I've almost exclusively used either ribbons or electrostats with solid state amplification and have been generally happy with the sound. Over the last several years, though, my hearing has become somewhat degraded and more sensitive to certain frequencies. The frequencies which seem to cause the most discomfort occur in the 1400 to 1900Hz range and come across as "bright" to my hearing. After researching this matter and having been given some expert advice, I've decided to pursue the idea of replacing my present amplification equipment with tube based gear.

The purpose of this post, then, is to solicit advice regarding the best approach to making this decision based on the following information: the current basic equipment is Shanling Solid state CD player, Peachtree Audio Nova used as preamp, two DBX 1531 EQ's to help compensate for age related hearing loss, Peachtree 220 amp, Silversonic T114 cable and Martin Logan Ethos speakers.

The listening area is our living room measuring 15 by 22 feet with my listening position 16 feet from the plane of the 2 speakers which are positioned 11 feet apart measured center to center. Located between the 2 speakers is an entertainment center which is about 9 feet wide. My listening interests are varied from solo guitar and light jazz to occasional orchestral music. I don't generally listen at high volumes and am not particularly interested in strong bass except for the rare action movie background.

Unless not advisable for some reason, I would like to keep the Peachtree Nova as a preamp because of the significant latitude for source connection and what seems to have a decent internal DAC. If this option would substantially defeat the purpose of the intended modification I would work around it. I can no longer deal with sounds that are "bright" which I now find uncomfortable but detailed sound is very important.

So, the questions are: is the move to tubes the best option and, if so, what might be some reasonably priced amps that could accomplish the goal. This, of course, would take into consideration room size, etc. for determining power requirements. If there are other more practical and less expensive options to consider, I would appreciate that advice as well.
128x128broadstone
"So, the questions are: is the move to tubes the best option and, if so, what might be some reasonably priced amps that could accomplish the goal."

There's no guarantee that tubes will help. They can be bright just like SS. I would focus on getting the right gear regardless of whether its tube or SS. Also, just getting something that sounds rolled off/warm, probably fix your problem. I think your issue is more of a timbre/refinement problem in the high frequencies. For example, a cymbal can often sound like a harsh noise, and not a cymbal. If you can correct HF problems like that, you should be able to listen to your system.
Take a look at the Carver 350 Black Beauty mono blocks. The 350's use six KT-150's per side and can drive just about any speaker. The slightly older version of the Black Beauty's, the 305's uses six KT-120's per side. I use these amps on my Magnepan 20.7's and they sound fantastic! The 20's are a demanding load, but the 305's never seem to run out of power.

If you are serious about tubes, I would start with a tube DAC and then maybe a tube preamp. Both uses the smaller signal tubes. A tube amp uses the larger power tubes and they can take a bit more care and feeding.

That said, tubes and planar speakers can sound magical. I have owned tube electronics with some type of planar speakers since the late 1980s. I currently own Martin Logan SL3 speakers driven by an Audio Research Ref 110 tube amp and LS27 preamp.
Detlof, at low volumes I experience no discomfort at any frequency but at "normal" levels there are ranges of frequencies, as I pointed out, that bother me especially when from a percussive source like a piano. It might be important to mention that the problem was somewhat worsened when I switched to the Ehos speakers from the Odysseys. The Ethos seems to do a very good job in the upper mid frequencies, maybe too good. To answer the question about speaker cable selection, my original thread was started with that subject in mind but I decided that my issues warranted a little less subtle approach and that I'd address the cable issue later.

One thing I've learned which is contrary to the assumption that proper speaker positioning should be much simpler with these speakers because of the smaller transducer panel compared to the Odysseys. That's simply not the case and their positioning may be even more critical which reminds me of another point; I was able to achieve a somewhat warmer sound toeing them in several degrees more than the recommended starting point of aiming them so that one is listening to the inner 1/3 of each speaker.

As far as the CD player is concerned, most of my evaluation has been in listening to lossless files synced from iTunes to the Apple TV. It's the simplest way I have of switching between various genres for comparison of different instruments. I hear no difference, though, listening to either source. The CD player, btw, is about 10 years old and I'm not using my DAC's as I'm depending, so far, on the Peachtree internal DAC which is supposed to be decent.

EBM, thanks, I will look into the VAC as one of the choices.
Sounds as if I Have same hearing issue using Ribbon speakers. Switched to BAT REX amp and worked out great . VTL,manley also good choices
I have Ethos front speakers and used two BAT VK 60 as momo blocks and had great results. If fact, with those ML speakers, one stereo would do.

Really, with a Peachtree Nova you would be well with any qualité tube amp, outputing over 60 watts.

I am cutting back on music, and now use an older Classe SS amp.
Boadstone,

Please tell us more: Does this brightness you describe, occur at every soundlevel from ppp to fff and when listening to music, which instrument or voice tends to irritate you the most, when you are listening to what music at what sound level?

I feel this is a delicate problem, which has to be approached carefully. The problem could in fact lie anywhere. Do you only listen to CDs? If yes, how old is your Shanling?

Unfortunately I don't know your Peachtree gear to have an opinion on their sound, but I know the Shanling and that it can sound harsh with certain CD's.
There is a (small) chance, that even a change of cabling could do the trick at lesser cost. Have you ever tried that?