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Audio Rack Construction

Happy New Year All!

I'm planning a rack with three wood (maple) shelves using threaded rod as the supports. This will be something similar to Salamander racks. Besides, the metal washers and nuts, I'm going to be using some type of isolation washer that will contact the top and bottom of each shelf.
So...shelf, isoloation washer, metal washer, and then nut.

Questions: 1. When passing the threaded rod through each shelf, should the holes in the shelves not allow the threaded rod to touch, so the only thing touching the shelves are the isolation washers? 2. Besides neoprene, what's a good material for the isolation washers? 3. After leveling each shelf during assembly, I'm planning to add aluminum tubing over the threaded rod and nuts between each shelf for a cleaner look. This would mean that the top and bottom ends of the aluminum tubing would also contact the shelves. Should I avoid this, or additionally add some isolation material between the ends of the tubes and the shelves?
kennythekey

Showing 7 responses by jdoris

jdoris
972 posts
 
Yes, I'd go several coats, rubbed hard with four ought steel wool, followed by soft rag, final coat with soft rag. I rushed my table, and the wood is underprotected. The brass will patina if not treated. Not sure what to use, though.
jdoris
972 posts
 
I got a lot of helpful suggestions on a similar topic here:

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1158841915&openmine&zzJdoris&4&5#Jdoris
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hi Kenny.

I've got a 1905 home, and the industrial look of brass and maple has grown on me, esp. as they've picked up some patina.

Since you're thinking of covering the the rods, will you still go brass? Some favor the sonics of brass (I'm not confident I could detect a difference), but I'm pretty sure you would save a a good bit on the rods by going stainless or galvi.

I suppose that filling the rods could reduce the possibility of ringing and the like. Note that filling the rods may, depending on the amount of fill needed, add significant weight; my 4 shelf rack is pretty heavy as it is.

One more thought on the visuals: Boos block is now offering walnut and cherry blocks (at a price), which gives more options for matching decor. Again, some favor the sonics of maple, but I'd not be surprised if their ears were much better than mine.

John
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hi Kenny. I like walnut oil for the finish. In general, I'd go for oil for ease of application and touch up; walnut oil seems to create a hard finish. John
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hey Kenny. Regards the drill press table size, could you affix a piece of .75" furniture grade plywood? if the table does not have holes that could be exploited for mounting, you might even drill some. I gather no add ons from the manufacturer (eg, some kind of outrigger, or a larger table) are available, or cost too much?
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hey Kenny. I've not gotten anything like a greenish tint. I think Walnut Oil won't add much color, and will stay pretty "true." The maple for my rack was pretty dark to begin with, with some tints running to reddish. This summer, I refinished the butcher block work table in my study, which is quite blond maple, and it stayed that way with Walnut Oil. Not much of greenish tint on my cutting boards, either. Of course, with wood finishes (even more than audio!) the results depend a lot on the particulars of the situation. John
jdoris
972 posts
 
Well Done, Kenny. On leveling the top shelf: There a school of thought that says that you don't want the nuts on your rack completely tight, and that some feeling of play is better. Can't remember where I heard this, but you might look around; I have mine that way. Whyn't you level the top shelf for your TT, and give a listen? I'd certainly be keen to hear your results on an a/b: tight v. loose rack. John
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