Atma-Sphere Class D… Amazing


Today I picked up my Atma-Sphere Class D Amps. These aren’t broken in yet. And they are simply amazing. I’ve listen to a lot of High End Class D. Some that cost many times what Atma-Sphere Class D costs. I wasn’t a fan of any of them. But these amps are amazing. I really expected to hate them. So my expectations were low. The Details are of what I’ve never heard from any other amps. They are extremely neutral. To say the realism is is extremely good is a gross understatement. They are so transparent it’s scary. These amps just grab you and suck you into the music. After I live with them some and get them broken in. And do some comparisons to some other high end Amps Solid State, Tubes and Class D’s, also in other systems I’ll do a more comprehensive review. But for now, these are simply amazing amps.. Congrats to Ralph and his team. You guys nailed on these.

 

 

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@dseltz about the only thing that jumps out is there is no manual for the A-S Class D amps :-)

I do have a question that, hopefully, @atmasphere Ralph might be able to answer:

I was watching a YouTube video from REL about connecting their subs to class D monoblocks. They recommend connecting their red wire to the amp’s positive speaker post and the black wire to chassis...not the negative speaker post. I’d prefer to hear from you if this is how it should be connected or if you recommend something different?

@docroasty In case you’re looking for ideas- here’s a pic of the setup I made for mine (that are on the ground) The braces are 3D printed and the wood it’s stained solid 1 1/2" thick walnut (to match my Tannoy’s). The aluminum feet have rubber rings in the bottoms. I’m happy with the way it all came out. Here’s a link with a pic. You can zoom in with your mouse wheel.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jESO2l6Tp43OVJFafkoTTUAr-GJQsbvQ/view?usp=sharing

@clio09 thanks for that info! i left the shorting plugs in the box and stored it away, as i dont use RCA often. looks like i'll have to get them out and keep them in the drawer just in case.

@veerossi dude, to say that rack is amazing would be an understatement. that looks fantastic!! by any chance, do you make those to sell? lol

it has been only two days since i've had the monoblocks. this is my first time using monoblocks. my other amps are Apollon Audio stereo 1et7040sa and NAD M23, both Purifi. i've had Kinki M7, another Apollon purifi (1et400sa) and Benchmark AHB2 previously. these monoblocks are extremely impressive..

there is a whole lot of detail in the music, but somehow there is also zero sibilance/edginess/etchiness. felt like there wasnt enough bass initially but seemingly on only day 2, the low end has filled in substantially. these monoblocks definitely sound different from my Purifi gear; a bit warmer, slightly fuller on the midbass region, slightly rounded up top. it is a very pleasant sound.

since i couldnt place them nicely on the rack, i have them stacked on a butcher block next to it. hooked up some simple xlr cables directly to the Meitner MA3 dac and using the dac for volume control. sounds fab and seems like such a simple setup especially for running in the amps during the day (dont want to use up tube life when not listening). I will try hook up the monoblocks to my Cary SLP-05 preamp this weekend and report back.

 

 

 

@docroasty Thanks. I'm glad you like it. I can make another one to sell to you, but we will need to discuss the details. Please DM me if you are interested.

I was watching a YouTube video from REL about connecting their subs to class D monoblocks. They recommend connecting their red wire to the amp’s positive speaker post and the black wire to chassis...not the negative speaker post. I’d prefer to hear from you if this is how it should be connected or if you recommend something different?

@veerossi I would hook it up to the red and black. If you run into trouble with buzz or hum, you can try tying to chassis, but I don't think its necessary.

Also in the hum and buzz department: some preamps and sources are not grounded. If using one of them and also the single-ended input of the amp and you have a buzz or hum, place a jumper between pins 1 and 3 of the XLR. You will only need this if the preamp or source is not Grounded.