Am I wasting money on the theory of Bi-amping?

I guess since in this forum people want to call the bi wiring or some variation of that "biamping", we should at least call it "passive biamping" as per Elliots post. . BIamping - as taught in every audio book ever- is a term (like triamping) from years and years ago to describe an active crossover was in use and amps are driven [band limited] direct to the drivers. NO lossy passive elecronics between amp and driver. This is an important distinction as active biamping elevates performance radically. This slang term "passive baimping " I guess is in use but just confuses the issue needlessly, leading people astray in terms of understanding their own system and whats a worthwhile expense in upgrading it and what is not, The term used solo It implies that "passive biamping".achieves some of the same results as real [active] "biamping" and it doesn’t even come close. Talk to any competent transducer engineer and he or she will explain to you that passive biamping is a marketing term adapted to sell you more cable or more amplifiers.and offers questionable results. In passive biamping, you are throwing half the amp output away as the passive crossover filters that part of the amp output out. All the passive parts separating the driver from the amp remain. The inability to adjust driver phase remains. It improves nothing I can see, save the possibility that just more power could help some speakers sound better (as more power usually does that, most commonly improving bass dynamics). This more power benefit is the same when applied to a single amp system or a true active biamp system: more power usually = better low end.

The potential (and real) benefit of going to passive bi-amping is solely about power - as it is the only characteristic of the system being changed. In my case, I have speakers (passive bi-ample) whose sonic character I prefer. Likewise, I have an amplifier that pairs very well with these speakers. To get more output (and greater headroom) from this combination of speaker and amp, I need more power. I could solve this, obviously, by getting a larger amplifier. But a larger amplfier with the characteristics of my current amplifier would be orders of magnitude greater in cost. And I already have this amplifier. So the shorter, more sensible path is to simply add another, identical amplifier and vertically bi-amp. Move the amps near the speakers and get the additional benefit of significantly shorter speaker cables. If you like what you've got but think you may need more power, I say passively bi-amp away! For ref, I have had active bi- and tri-amped systems so I know very well what those benefits (and drawbacks) are. 

Agree w/trn -- (passive) bi-amping is about power (to the loudspeakers).

According to the OP’s current profile, the OP has "... two NAD M23’s horizontally B-Amped ...". Given that the NAD M23 has a single power supply, horizontal bi-amping means that the LF M23 drives both the left and right channel woofers from a single power source. The HF M23 is of little concern because the LF musical signals draw vastly more power than do the HF musical signals. i.e. With identical amplifiers -- e.g. 2 x M23 -- vertical bi-amping should be preferred because the LF musical signal of each channel would have a separate power source. (Again, the HF power draw is small relative to the LF power draw.) If the two amplifiers are of dual-mono construction -- e.g. two Simaudio Moon 861s -- then horizontal bi-amping is fine.

If bi-amping with non-identical amplifiers, then horizontal bi-amping is the only sensible option. e.g. Not many people would employ a tube amp for their left channel and a solid-state amp for their right channel.

I have had better results using two monoblock amps, each amp driving it's speaker full range, than bi-amping the same speakers using one amp for the woofer section and another amp for the mids and highs.

To my ears, monoblocks sound the best. 

YMMV...

Tricky stuff Bi-amping. Im currently using that setup for  best lowend control (B&w)

and a bit better mids and highs

Solid state lows, Tube highs.

Just had a Very Large pair of tube monos,

I sold them and kept my bi-amped setup because it gives some adjustable

Levels between the 2. Probably not 100% accurate but I like live levels

I was clipping the 600 watt monos. Ha