AES - AE3 Linestage

I had the Hexfreds and Caps changed to DJH spec from the original AE-3. It didn't have a major impact on the sound. The biggest changes I can effect are using a particular 6SN7. I am sure the rectifier must have an impact but I don't have anything to suggest.
I already had a good idea of what I wanted my 6SN7s to sound like having amassed a ton of them when I used them as Drivers.
The biggest differences between a driver and the input and gain stage tube is not a different overall tone. Yes it is a forbidden tone control in some instances.Its the presence of extraneous noises. A bad tube is unbearable. The 6SN7 is a microphonic tube by nature and I never knew so much of what I owned was micro or worse macro phonic and/or noisy.
The truth can hurt.
I spare you the rundown on 6SN7s but the very early Sylvania "chrome Dome" (c.1940s) is the one I prefer
Has annyone used an ECC32 in this preamp? Sorry if that constitutes a threadjack

I had the Hexfreds and Caps changed to "better" than even DJH spec, starting with the plain original AE-3.
I really was surprised by this little pre. I thought/think it is fantastic.
I was frankly afraid of changing it. Thank goodness it did nothing bad but If I had to pay a lot to do it I wouldn't have. My friend did the mods.
The biggest change I can hear are by rolling the 6SN7s. I am sure the rectifier must also have an impact but I still don't have one in that pre.
I already had a good idea of what my 6SN7s sounded like. I bought that pre only to check the sound of tubes I had collected.I some how ended up with a mole of them. I had used themin a driver stage of an amp that I no longer used. I got into the way the sound could be altered by the tube you choose.
The biggest differences between a driver stage position and the input and gain stages are not a difference in overall tone or character the tube adds or detracts in terms of character. Its the presence of extraneous noises. A noisy tube is unbearable in a gain stage. The 6SN7 is a microphonic tube by nature and I never knew so much of what I owned was micro or worse macro phonic and/or just noisy.
The truth hurt.
I spare you the rundown on 6SN7s but the very early Sylvania "chrome Dome" (c.1940s) is the one I prefer, it has a very deep band broad stge and has beautiful euphonic mid bass on top of the superb imagery. Many of Sylvanias black T plates, with 3 rivets, that face each other with the heavily chromed envelope share the attributes I have just described.
Yes- of course there are differences the WGT is quicker the GT is a tad loose. The W is in everyones opinion IEO the best. That's a no brainer getting a good pair is nearly impossible.
I have them several pairs and yes they are as good as I could ask or want, but people play them to death and sell them anyway. I got burned too many times looking for a good pair of Ws. It costs to much to learn this lesson.
BTW Has anyone used an ECC32 in this preamp? Sorry if that constitutes a threadjack.

Thanks, Mechans

I'm currently running a pair of Sylvania VT-231's along with a 70's Mullard 5AR4. I've also run Sylvania GTA's and RCA GTB's but prefer the VT-231's. Good to know that you found tube rolling to be more significant than cap upgrades. Perhaps I'll look into some of the early chrome-domes. Any other suggestions?

Save yourself a ton of money and buy the chrome domes,that Sylvania made for OEM. For example look for Philco Admiral and numerous others. Make sure the base has the Sylvania factory code 312 a date code usually follows.
Some GTAs are the style I think so highly of. You just have to find a reference pair to learn the architecture. Triangle plates are the wrong ones to buy. It's really a boxy rectangle with a straight spine with the rivets making the T.
Wrong maybe too strong. In a way none are really bad. I think that's what gives this pre and others by Cary the e.g. SLP-05 there magic.

Hexfreds, Caddocks, Mundorfs caps, dual Goldpoint attenuaters, 6SN7 GTBs

Mechans,

I can't say for sure that my GTA's are/aren't the ones that you speak of. They are short bottles with the flashing extending down the side of the tube. The plates are similar in shape to those in my Sylvania VT-231's - I'd describe them as having more of a "T-shape" than being triangular. They are also mounted parallel to one another, rather than being offset like the plates in the Sylvania GTB's.