Yessir!
Adding wireless speakers to my current, vintage analog system.
I’d like to add wireless speakers to my current setup (listed below).
Ideally I would be able to control volume and basic EQ for the wireless speakers independent from the wired speakers, while also having a main receiver where I have control over the overall EQ/volume for all speakers - if that makes sense.
I like the sound and look of my vintage receivers, and would like to stay with true stereo (not single or paired mono speakers). And I don’t want to add too much bulky gear, if possible.
I mainly stream Spotify (from an old MacBook to the R-2000) and play vinyl records and CDs (and occasionally cassette tape or MiniDisc).
So far vIdeo and TV (home theater setup) have not been on my improvement radar - I’m fine with a good sound bar for the TV for now.
I live in an approx 1200 sqft open warehouse space with high ceiling, wooden floor and large windows. I don’t have a particular listening spot - I like to have good sound when I dine, but also when I cook in the kitchen corner or work in the upper mezzanine loft.
Currently the KEFs and the Klipsch woofer (living room area) are driven by the R-2000, and all the Minimus-7s (upper loft and kitchen/dining area) are driven by the Nikko.
For the time being I’d just replace the Minimus’ with some decent, small wireless speakers. Probably not so easy as the Mins are surprisingly good for their size.
If, whatever I will add to my rig for enabling it to send sound to wireless speakers, can also function as a high-quality DAC and/or direct music streamer, that’d be an added bonus, but is not my main concern right now.
Current setup:
- Yamaha R-2000 - serves as main receiver and powers a pair of KEF Q500 and a Klipsch 120SW (mains). The R-2000 is then connected to:
- Nikko NR-1219 which powers 3 pairs of Minimus-7 (secondary) in the mezzanine lofts and the kitchen/dining room
What is BLT? Bacon, Lettuce and tomato? Don’t lose sleep over not getting 32 bit/768 kHZ material. There are probably no recordings that were actually made at these settings. These crazy numbers are obtained by upsampling. Even if such a recording did exist, whatever the claims of the manufacturer, a budget component such as yours wouldn’t be able to deliver it in away that you could hear a difference. Stop stressing about the equipment. You bought something, now enjoy listening to music. If you want to learn about the joys of understanding digital specications, such a the meaning of bit length and frequency transmission, try some of the references provided up thread, or Wikipedia |
I seem to still be slightly confused about resolution and bit rates. What does it mean when Wiim claims that the DAC can handle digital audio files of up to 32-bit, 768kHz, and how would I ever take advantage of that? Is that just true for the receiving side of things? I assume this being a moot point for Spotify. But let’s say I use Tidal, do I need to get an external DAC with 31/768 out and bypass the Wiim’s DAC? If so, I feel mighty stupid as I was hoping that the Wiim’s DAC would suffice for this kind of scenario. That should be more clearly stated when they advertise the built-in DAC. “Handle” in my vocabulary doesn’t stop short of the device’s outputs. |
I ended up getting a Wiim Pro Plus, which I just connected to the receiver today, via Line Out. And I started sourcing Spotify via WiFi. Was easy to set up. |
Sorry, at $150 budget, you are pretty limited. Without trying to sound like an audio snob, at that budget you won’t get highly revealing gear. Try Wiim or iFi products . I haven’t heard them but budget audiophiles seem to like them. By the way, what you are seeking is a streamer DAC combination, not just a DAC. I would also refer you back to my earlier recommendation to get a USB DAC to attach to your PC. I recommend Audioquest, which might be slightly above your budget. Again, iFi might have a usb DAC that might add some Bluetooth, you’d have to check their product lineup |
My last post under powered speakers, should read “amplifiers “ and not “pliers”. Questions you should ask yourself Have you defined a budget? That should be step #1 Do you intend to stream solely from a service such as Spotify? Or do you also want to move your CDs to a hard drive and be able to stream them? Digitalizing lps is a whole different ball of wax. Do you want to use a phone or tablet as a source and control, or be sticking with the laptop, or both? Further recommendations would depend upon your answers. In the meantime I would consider getting a USB/DAC for the laptop and just streaming with that for a while to get comfortable. Many audiophiles find that is enough and stop there, and it would be a low cost way for you to start
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Thank you, mahler123, for laying it all out for me.
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I neglected powered speakers. These basically have a pliers inside them, and then they typically are configured to accept Bluetooth, WiFi, and Ethernet, and usually you can plug in components such as CD players or turntables. So if I was you, You want to start with a defined budget. It’s easy to fritter resources away when you don’t understand the concepts, or even when you do. Start with the laptop and USB DAC attached to your receiver. Try a streaming service such as Spotify or Qobuz or Apple. If you want to listen to your CDs as computer files we can help you with that. That might be all you need. If you decide to go further, fine, but familiarize yourself with streaming in this low cost fashion |
So then how to stream? You have a laptop. In theory that is all you need.. The laptop can take the files from a storage device. Laptops also have DACs. A Digital to Audio Converter converts those 1s and Os in the digital stream to analog sound. All you need to do is run RCA cables from the laptop into your ancient receiver. You are done. Laptops have DACs, but they aren’t that great. So you can greatly improve things by using a separate DAC. The simplest way to go here is a DAC that looks like a USB stick and attaches to a USB slot in the laptop. The other end of the DAC has an attachment for a RCA cable that will attach to your receiver. You then need a subscription to a streaming service, such as Spotify, from which you can get files to play. Or you can play your own CDs or lps, but you have to store them on a device as digital files. Streamers are dedicated audio components that are basically computers optimized for computer audio. Bluetooth is a convenient way to wirelessly send audio. Most wireless headphones or ear buds use Bluetooth as do many other devices. You need a sender, such as a cellphone, and a receiver, and a DAC. Some laptops can receive a Bluetooth signal. Bluetooth uses only a portion of the WiFi band so historically it has sounded inferior (but good enough for most non audiophiles). There is a new codec out for Bluetooth, which I haven’t heard, that purports to be lossless, but many devices, such as cellphones, are not equipped with that codec. Ultimately I would recommend that you get a streamer and a new audio amplifier. You can buy all in one, AVRs that come with DACs and streamers included, but I wouldn’t recommend starting this way |
I think that you have some fundamental lack of understanding here, although you seem to be progressing. I recommend reading the latest version about Hi Fi by Robert Harley. He updates his book every few years and I don’t doubt that he has a chapter that covers the basics of streaming. His magazine, The Absolute Sound, had a good series on basics a few years ago that should be easy to Google. So let’s try to be basic. Streaming involves playing computer files through your Hi Fi system. Those files are either stored on a commercial server (Amazon, Apple, Spotify, etc) or else on some kind of storage in your own collection, such as a hard drive or a usb stick. The files can sent via Ethernet, which is a wired connection to your Internet Modem/Router (I assume you know what a router is, since you use a laptop and are accessing this site). Or the files can be sent without a wired connection. WiFi is the standard for wireless. Hopefully you know what WIFi is. If you use your laptop to access the without being tethered to an Ethernet cable, or a cellphone, you are using WiFi. Your HiFi system does need a receiver for the WiFi signal. Bluetooth is another way to send wireless files. Related technologies are Apple AirPlay and Google Chromecast. In general you need a sender and a receiver for these as well. Bluetooth and AirPlay in general compress the original WiFi signal and are of lower Fidelity than straight WiFi. WiFi and Ethernet in general are equivalent and uncompressed and the best sound. I am speaking in generalities here and you might get others disagreeing with some points. |
After a bit more research I come to understand that there is Bluetooth and then there is WiFi. And WiFi seems to be the better choice when it comes to hi-res/losless sound quality. Ideally I get something with capabilities for both, WiFi and Bluetooth. |
Thank you all for taking your time and being patient wth me! mahler123: Receiving: Also: |
You can get a Bluetooth receiver , such as Audioengine, and it will attach to your receiver via RCA cables. You can transmit from a Bluetooth source, such a cell phone. The signal will go to the Bluetooth receiver which yes has a DAC inside. The DAC will send the now analog music signal via aforementioned cables to your AVR, which will then send it to your speakers, via the cables that attach the speakers to the AVR. I hope you haven’t got lost yet. What you CANNOT do is send the Bluetooth signal directly to your speakers because your speakers have no way to receive and then amplify the signal. In your original post you said that you wanted to transmit wirelessly from your receiver to speakers. I suspect what you meant to say was you wanted to transmit wirelessly from a source, such as a cellphone, and otherwise keep your present system ( receiver and speakers). Pick up an Audioengine (I have had one for several years in one of my systems).Plug it into your receiver, stream from your phone via Bluetooth, start enjoying music, and relax |
I haven't used wireless speakers myself, but there are are a lot of theoretic advantages. One would need less power and they eliminate a crossover, and there are obvious space saving advantages. I've heard the KEF and another smallish powered speaker and they have a surprising amount of bass for such small units. I just don't think that thee is a way to work your vintage AVR into the equation. You could perhaps use the preamp section of the AVR, if it has pre amp out, but then you are attached to the speakers with wires, and you want to avoid that |
nmolnar
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mahler123Are you saying that, when I use wireless speakers, the sound quality is mainly defined (and/or even bottlenecked) by the speaker’s built-in amplifier? |
My understanding is that wireless speakers come complete with their own amplification. Even if you were to add a source, that can Bluetooth or otherwise wireless feed speakers and was simultaneously connected to your receiver (such as a turntable that can Bluetooth or a streamer), it is bypassing the amplification in the AVR and relying on the amplification of the wired speakers, afaik |