BI-AMPING


BI-AMPING IS THE TRUE WAY TO REALLY GOOD SOUND THE X-OVERS IN PRETTY MUCH ALL SPEAKERS OVERLOAD DISTORTING THE SIGNAL. ACTUALLY, ALL SPEAKER REVIEWS AND RATINGS ARE WORTHLESS UNLESS THEY ARE BI-AMPING,THEY ARE MERELY REPORTING THE COLORATIONS AND DISTORTIONS IN THE PASSIVE X-OVERS. CONSIDER THIS, BI-AMPING AND TRI-AMPING ARE THE INDUSTRY STANDARD IN RECORDED AND LIVE SOUND. SO, WOULDN'T IT MAKE SENSE FOR YOU TO DO THE SAME IN YOUR LISTENING ROOM/STUDIO? AS FAR AS UNITS THAT I WOULD RECOMMEND, FOR A DECENT PRICE THE BRYSTON 10B, IF YOU WANT TO AND CAN AFFORD IT, THE FM ACOUSTICS 236. SOME OF YOU MIGHT SAY THAT THE X-OVER (EVEN THE BEST UNITS SUCH AS THESE) COLORS THE SOUND, BUT REALLY, THE ADVANTAGES OUTWEIGH THE DISADVANTAGES. EACH DRIVER IS DRIVEN BY IT'S OWN AMP-DIRECT SIGNAL, YOU CAN'T BEAT THAT. I FEEL THAT THIS IS AN OVERLOOKED ISSUE THAT IS HORRENDOUSLY IGNORED BY THE PRESS AND THE PUBLIC ALIKE. YOU'RE A LOT BETTER OFF PAYING FOR ANOTHER STEREO AMP AND AN ACTIVE X-OVER THAN TRICK CABLES, SHUN MOOK CRAP, ROOM TUNES, CONES, DOMES, MARKERS, POWER LINE CONDITIONERS, AND ALL THAT OTHER very expensive GARBAGE THAT IS A BIG WASTE OF YOUR MONEY AND IS NOT EFFECTIVE. IF YOU DON'T BELEIVE ME ASK TOP DESIGNERS LIKE CHRIS RUSSELL OF BRYSTON, AT HEAR WHAT THEY TELL YOU.
busted_eardrum
Another really good crossover is the Marchand Electronics. They make solid state active crossovers and tube crossovers for high end applications. I know that they also offer a kit, if you're handy with a soldering iron.
I used a Bryston 10b to biamp my Dunlavy SC-V. Bryston 7bst on the bottom ARC VT-200 on the top. The 10b added too much harshness. I liked the 7bst alone better. I ultimately went to high powered tube monoblocks. Just my experience.
This is the way to go if you can afford it.Biamping is the proper way of doing it.I am not a beliver in biwiring.Its not what its cracked up to be.I have been told that the New Rogue Tempest is set up to accept a Rogue 88 so you can Bi amp with this tube set up for under 3500.00
Bi-amping does have a logical appeal, but if your main concern is with the "sound" of crossovers (both passive and active), then the best solution is to eliminate the crossover. Go to a full range, crossoverless system. The problem with my suggestion is that you are then limited to a small number of speakers that have a whole other set of sonic compromises (hard to drive, limited dynamics, large size, etc). My point is that there is not a single path to reach audio nirvana. Any road taken will result in a set of compromises. Current passive crossover designs are very good and when implemented with high quality parts (expensive) by a talented speaker designer the crossover does not significantly harm the music signal passing through it. Active crossover can offer higher precision and greater flexibility which can lead to higher sound quality, but the downside is twice the number of amps, twice the cable, "Y" connectors, etc. Choose your own poison.