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Help with fatiguing sound in my PC system

I replaced my Halo Pre and Denon changer with a PS Audio DL III. I run lossless music into it from iTunes on a PC (Windows 7 64bit, core i7, 16MB RAM), I use a Pangea USB cable into a MF V-link, then go into the DAC with a Wireworld ultraviolet coax. The increased detail, clarity, resolution and extension are remarkable, but so is the amount of listening fatigue. The highs are too much, but the music sounds muffled if I add the pre-amp back. My system is profiled in the link below. I have some ideas, let the voting begin:
1 - buy an offramp or a pacecar (can't afford it!)
2 - use better USB/coax/interconnects/speaker cable
3 - apply acoustic treatments to the room
4 - use a software player (Jplay) that sits on top of iTunes
5 - buy speakers with different tweeters (Quad 22L2/Focal 826v, this is happening, but not any time soon)
6 - get a better amp (McCormack/Odyssey, distant future)
7 - tweak Windows 7/iTunes settings (WASAPI exclusive mode?!?)
8 - adjust speaker position/toe in (already did this and it helped a little)
I am thinking about trying #3/#7 next. Ideas? Thnx in advance.
realremo
audioengr
3,282 posts
 
Fatigueing sound is generally due to high jitter at the wrong frequencies. This will not get fixed without fixing the source or interface with the Master Clock in it.

Most people feel that they can use a $200 interface with a $2K DAC. The opposite is more optimum. Use a $2K interface with a $200 DAC. This interface is more important than the DAC.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio
realremo OP
460 posts
 
I auditioned Jplay a couple of days ago and it helped. Less ringing. But the volume control is in 6dB steps to keep the signal bit-perfect, it's not a slider.
I only know of two manufacturer's of re-clockers, Monarchy Audio's DIP products and Empirical's units. Is there a re-clocker out there that I am missing? I know USB-S/PDIF converters re-clock the signal, and there are probably better ones than the MF V-link I bought. Audiophelio, Halide, Stello. Not sure one of these will make as significant a difference as a new clock.
Does anyone out there use a PC setup with Focal 826v or 836v? I'm interested in how you set up your source.
mb9061
137 posts
 
Is your system too bright? Or is it etchy, grainy? Or both?

You're referencing speakers with metallic tweeters, a solid state DAC that is known to be bright (similiar to the Benchmark DAC1), and you're driving your amp directly with one of those types of DACs? If so, that is a scenario for a heachace, jitter nor not. And fixing the jitter WILL NOT cure brightness or a forward system/setup.
audioengr
3,282 posts
 
"Is there a re-clocker out there that I am missing?"

Depends on what you want to reclock. Here is one that is more for Sonos and AppleTV etc..:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=102003.0

"there are probably better ones than the MF V-link I bought. Audiophelio, Halide, Stello. Not sure one of these will make as significant a difference as a new clock."

They will and there are better ones if you want to do USB. This makes the difference between harsh digital and analog SQ.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio
realremo OP
460 posts
 
I definitely want to do USB, But the synchro mesh looks interesting, will it work with a mf v-lnk, does it accept 24/96?
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