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SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

A couple of guys here were planning to do listening comparisons of the Technics SP10 Mk II vs the Mk III, in their own homes and systems. Has anyone actually completed such a comparison? I am wondering whether the "upgrade" to the Mk III is actually worth it in terms of audible differences between the two tables. Possibly mounting either table in a well done wooden or slate plinth mitigates any sonic differences that would otherwise be heard. I am thinking of Albert Porter and Mike Lavigne in particular, who were going to do the comparison. Thanks for any response.
lewm
ckniker
25 posts
 
DId you replace all the caps or just the electrolytics?

Did you substitute film caps for the 1uF electrolytics (as suggested by Jlin)? I've given this thought but wondered if the (larger) film caps would fit in the same footprint.

Chris

p.s. I've ordered a complete set of electrolytics and will do as you've done as soon as they arrive in the mail.
lewm OP
12,566 posts
 
I did not bother with the film caps, as per the opinion of Bill Thalmann, who says they tend to last indefinitely unless they are subject to excessive voltage beyond their rating. Also, I refuse to believe that one could "hear" the difference between the stock film caps and boutique audiophile caps, in the context of the tt electronics. One would be better off upgrading the diodes with lower noise parts.
rnadelman
17 posts
 
Hi, for those using wooden plinths, what footers seem to work with the SP10 mkll? Stillpoints, Herbies, Mapleshade to name a few, I would like feedback to form a starting point.
thanks
crubio
89 posts
 
Anyone know what are the specifications on the brass rod one would use to drain the vibrations from the SP-10's spindle? Also, how much torque?

Thanks,

Cr
impulseh2
8 posts
 
What a good thread this is! Thank you.
There has been a lot of questioning re. lengthening the cables so as to take the boards outside the plinth. My SP-10 arrived with me with the electronics in an external case connected by about 24" of multicore OCC connected with a normal computer multiway D plug to the electronics. The motor end is connected (soldered) to a tag board attached to the motor.

I can assure you that this modification gives for a far quieter background than when the TT is as standard. Other than replacement of electrolic caps and a few other passive component the electronics are totally standard. I was using for several years a B7 solid obsidian plinth and a 'Plexiglass' armboard which I replaced with a 1" finest grain solid carbon board - Carbon NOT carbon graphite bon. (Arms used include FR 64S (best) Graham (does not suit my very low compliance heavy MCs) and Zeta which is pretty good.

If I could find a big block of solid fine grain carbon here in the UK at a sensible cost I would have the whole plinth made of the stuff...as it is I am now going to use natural slate.
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