SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

"Also, regarding restoring the deck - I don't think I'm so perfectionist to pay 500 pounds to restore the surface of the deck. I was thinking of something on the order of an auto body place - something where I could tape up everything except the top and side surfaces and have them do a nice job. I know it would be a departure from the original, but this is a second deck - and it wouldn't bother me, as long as it looks good! "

My first SP-10 mkII looked real bad. Scratched and oxidized. I stripped all the parts from the alu chassis and carefully sanded it down. Took it to an auto-body-shop and had it spray-painted in jet black 2K enamel. Looked ultra sleek. If you do it properly it will look great.

BTW - You did get the SP-10 mkII in matt black - they are just very rare. My friend has a black SP-10 mkII. I can send a photo if you like.

Lonestarsouth, What did you do re the on/off button, when you had the chassis painted? Did you leave it in brushed chrome? That would look cool.

"Lonestarsouth, What did you do re the on/off button, when you had the chassis painted? Did you leave it in brushed chrome? That would look cool."

Yes. I left it original. The Technics factory original black SP-10 mkII also had the button in aluminum finish.

Peter_s:

You asked, "...how difficult/easy is it to access these boards, get them out of the chassis, and replace the caps?"

Assuming you're asking about a MkII, it's pretty easy, and the boards are old 70's technology, so they're very easy to work on without damaging them.

To get at the boards, you need to remove the bottom cover, which is held on by a bunch of small screws. The boards will then be exposed. There are 4 boards, 3 of which plug into the one in the center. There are 3 or 4 screws holding each board in place, and some brass standoffs. Remove the screws and standoffs, unplug any cables plugged into the board you want to remove, and the board just slides out of the edge connector.

The boards are all pretty rugged and use double-sided copper, so they're pretty hard to damage. Work on the "underside" of the board, i.e. the side opposite the one with the parts on it with a 25-35W iron. Personally, I just use one of those spring-loaded solder suckers and suck as much solder as possible off the pad, then finish the job with solder wick. The part(s) should pop out.

Watch the polarity of the electrolytic caps. Also, I recall that Technics used a "22V16" numbering system on their schematics, which means 22uf and 16V. Something like that.

John L.

Thanks John,

I've tallied up all (23) of the electrolytic caps for the boards inside the table directly out of the service manual. My list is below. Again, I assume that the "WV" and "W" ratings are all meant to be volts. If I am wrong, someone please let me know before I order them!!! Also, I assume there are no concerns requiring replacing other caps, such as polyester, styrol, etc).

Thanks, Peter

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS FOR TECHNICS SP10-2 CIRCUIT BOARDS (23)

DRIVE CIRCUIT BOARD
C7,8,12,13,14,15,16,17 (8x) 1 uF 50WV
C20 (1x) 2.2 uF, 50WV
C2,4,6,18 (4x) 10 uF, 50WV

LOGIC CIRCUIT BOARD
C201 (1x) 1 pF, 50WV
C230 (1x) 2.2 uF, 50WV
C202, 218, 225 (3x) 10 uF, 16WV
C227 (1x) 100 uF, 16WV
C204 (1x) 330 uF, 10WV

CONTROL CIRCUIT BOARD
C106 (1x) 1 uF, 50W
C103 (1x) 100 uF, 50W

CONNECTIONAL BOARD
C301 (1x) 10uF, 50W