MoFi enzyme based cleaner and pure rinse

Yes Eweedhorme, I have heard this too. The enzyme based cleaner and pure rinse were supposed to be a departure from all this. That was what had disappointed me, and it doesn't really work all that better than the cheap VPI stuff.

Sure, scrubbing could pose a danger, akin to if you were glazing-waxing your car, and there is trapped grit-dirt between wax applicator, and paint, you will scratch the surface-finish.

To lessen this, I suggest pre-cleaning-dusting with at least a Carbon Fiber Brush, specifically used for this purpose, before placing an LP on an RCM. This will also place less wear and tear on your RCM's Wand Protective Strips, and Scrubbing Brushes.

I certainly cannot speak for everybody out there who cleans thier records, but I'd probaby be correct saying that even the folks who are using the very best state of the art RCM's made, such as Loricraft, Monks, Hannl, etc., and are using whatever cleaners, whether a one step, or a multi-step such as Walker, AIVS, Mo-Fi are resorting to scrubbing with seperate, dedicated brushes for each particular cleaning step-rinse.

For each step, apply first with Brush-Brush Pad, let those products sit, to first do thier job for a number of minutes, attacking-working on the contaminants.

Only then begin your scrub routine, use a technique following the grooves, in a forward-reverse motion, scrubbing both ways, cleaning a 1/4th to a 1/3rd of the record at a time, and then move onto the next section of record, insuring overlap. Use the best quality Brushes-Brush Pads you can afford. After scrubbing is completed, then vacuum off fluids, and continue to the next step. There is nothing that says a specific step cannot be repeated, and it may be wise to do so with horribly dirty records. Same applies with the pure Water Rinse.

It is always important that you NEVER let any cleaner-rinse dry on the surface! An example is washing-spraying your car with tap water, let the water dry, then look at your paint finish, and the resulting water spots which are then very difficult to remove.

I think most here will generaly agree with what I have written, and I hope this helps you achieve better results. Mark

Markd51 - Good description of "safe" scrubbing (which I didn't describe). Also, I completely agree that a pre-cleaning dust-off of some kind is fully appropriate, and do so with and old VPI record brush (and usually a few Zerostat zaps to deal with the static).

It's a darn nutty ritual, isn't it? But feels somewhat virtuous.

"It's a darn nutty ritual, isn't it? But feels somewhat virtuous."

Words of genius Eweedhome.

Trite at this point I know, but I think steaming has real merit. Try it I say. What do you have to lose? It's cheap and very reproducable. I use the 16.5, Disc Doctor fluids, and the Perfection steamer from Walgreens. The results are beyond anything I've acheived so far. If I do try an enzyme fluid it will be the Walker which is the only one I can imagine having effective enzymatic activity at the time of use. On the other hand, right now I'm floored by the results I'm getting for pennys on the dollar so why change? Also, find a local biological supply company and buy type I reagent grade water for your rince step. Nothing anyone has can be more pure and it's only about $17 a gallon(versus $64 for Walker's ultra pure) As someone with a strong biology background, I would warn you to exercise caution in spending big money on some of these fluids. There's some snake oil out there.