Adding wireless speakers to my current, vintage analog system.


I’d like to add wireless speakers to my current setup (listed below). 

Ideally I would be able to control volume and basic EQ for the wireless speakers independent from the wired speakers, while also having a main receiver where I have control over the overall EQ/volume for all speakers - if that makes sense.

 

I like the sound and look of my vintage receivers, and would like to stay with true stereo (not single or paired mono speakers).   And I don’t want to add too much bulky gear, if possible.

 

I mainly stream Spotify (from an old MacBook to the R-2000) and play vinyl records and CDs (and occasionally cassette tape or MiniDisc). 

So far vIdeo and TV (home theater setup) have not been on my improvement radar - I’m fine with a good sound bar for the TV for now.

 

 

I live in an approx 1200 sqft open warehouse space with high ceiling, wooden floor and large windows. I don’t have a particular listening spot - I like to have good sound when I dine, but also when I cook in the kitchen corner or work in the upper mezzanine loft. 

 

Currently the KEFs and the Klipsch woofer (living room area) are driven by the R-2000, and all the Minimus-7s (upper loft and kitchen/dining area) are driven by the Nikko. 

 

For the time being I’d just replace the Minimus’ with some decent, small wireless speakers.  Probably not so easy as the Mins are surprisingly good for their size.

 

If, whatever I will add to my rig for enabling it to send sound to wireless speakers, can also function as a high-quality DAC and/or direct music streamer, that’d be an added bonus, but is not my main concern right now. 

 

 

Current setup:

  • Yamaha R-2000 - serves as main receiver and powers a pair of KEF Q500 and a Klipsch 120SW (mains). The R-2000 is then connected to:
  • Nikko NR-1219 which powers 3 pairs of Minimus-7 (secondary) in the mezzanine lofts and the kitchen/dining room
raphaz

I ended up getting a Wiim Pro Plus, which I just connected to the receiver today, via Line Out. And I started sourcing Spotify via WiFi. Was easy to set up. 

I skipped the laptop. I control/play Spotify from my phone and/or via the Wiim remote. Seems convenient, but I noticed significant latency when picking a new song in Spotify. It takes a lot longer until it plays the next song than it used to take via BLT. My WiFi is usually pretty fast and stable. Maybe some settings? 

I was also able to connect to a BLT speaker but haven’t managed to do both BLT and WiFi at the same time, not yet.

The Pro Plus is obviously slightly over my initial budget but seemed to be a good value for the money, with decent built quality, lots of options and a pretty good DAC. 
That way I have options and can customize things to whatever setup I want further down the road - unless I win the jackpot and decide to go all high-end separates or with a TOTL all-in-one receiver. If the latter I’m assuming the Pro Plus has still some resale value.

I’ll report more on my experience with this new toy soon. 

Thank you all for your help!

I seem to still be slightly confused about resolution and bit rates. 

What does it mean when Wiim claims that the DAC can handle digital audio files of up to 32-bit, 768kHz, and how would I ever take advantage of that? 

Is that just true for the receiving side of things? I assume this being a moot point for Spotify. But let’s say I use Tidal, do I need to get an external DAC with 31/768 out and bypass the Wiim’s DAC? 

If so, I feel mighty stupid as I was hoping that the Wiim’s DAC would suffice for this kind of scenario. That should be more clearly stated when they advertise the built-in DAC. “Handle” in my vocabulary doesn’t stop short of the device’s outputs.

I was able to clarify one thing, with help from some nice folks over at AK.
I think what I didn’t realize was that the 192/24 “limitation” only applies to some of the local/physical inputs, and not when music is streamed from the “cloud” via Ethernet or WiFi. 

What is BLT?  Bacon, Lettuce and tomato?

Don’t lose sleep over not getting 32 bit/768 kHZ material.  There are probably no recordings that were actually made at these settings.  These crazy numbers are obtained by upsampling.

  Even if such a recording did exist, whatever the claims of the manufacturer, a budget component such as yours wouldn’t be able to deliver it in away that you could hear a difference.

  Stop stressing about the equipment.  You bought something, now enjoy listening to music.  If you want to learn about the joys of understanding digital specications, such a the meaning of bit length and frequency transmission, try some of the references provided up thread, or Wikipedia