Perlisten D212 Subs (2) in the house.


Lots of interest in subwoofers these days so I decided to take the plunge.  My listening room is large 17’W x 32”D x 16’ vaulted ceilings with an open back wall into other rooms.  Current speakers Wilson Alexia 1, Classe Delta Mono’s, and VAC Signature 11a SE.  Originally was going to buy REL G1 mark 2 but decided to take a chance on the Perlisten as its newer tech and specs looked very good.  At first I thought speaker level connection was the way to go and it may be with a tube power amp rig.  The argument of passing through the “color” of your amp kinda made sense.  But I run very neutral solid state power amps and any power “amp” color still goes though the sub’s power amps which adds its own sound thus that argument made less sense to me and my system. I’m also lucky that my pre has two XLR outs for bi-amping. I am still breaking in these subs so I have decided to not try a detailed matching to my floor standers yet.  I will say this.  They are currently set at 80htz low pass with no other DSP adjustment.  The SQ is great!  They have a very articulate and fast bottom end that amazingly “pairs” well with my Wilsons with no tweaking. The soundstage has increased and there is a better foundation to the music.  Will provide further assessments after break-in.

128x128skinzy

@ja_kub_sz. When I upgraded my speakers and no longer needed them in my 2 channel audio system I put them in my Home Theatre system.  Mine are the D212's so are not comparable but I love them in this application. They replaced my M&K 350's.  As you say the bass is faster and more articulate.  Not just a muddled boom that so many subs are.  I might suggest adjusting your volume, otherwise your adjustments seem good.

Skinzy, I tend to think subs without a highpass are not worth the time as it never sounds quite right. Wilson audio makes a pretty good sub controller for around $5k that would allow for the integration. Might not be worth it to you though if you are moving away from the subs.
 

jab_kib_sz

i am curious if you have tried a higher crossover point. I found 60hz to be where most of these subs come into their sweet spot. Where they slam without sounding like “subs”. I currently use 2 JL E112 and have pretty munched highpassed them all at 60hz. My speakers (JBL 4367) also go down to the mid 30s and a 40-45hz crossover is fine but nothing special. At 60hz the system has noticeably more dynamic low bass. Once I get to 80hz crossover I feel like my system loses some bass texture. 
 

with your speakers so close to the wall they probably do kick pretty hard down low. When I had my Revel 228be (similar size to the Sopra) I had them 5’ off the wall the a high crossover of 60hz was needed to get a flat response in room. 

@skinzy and @james633  sadly day two not off to a good start. One sub has a "Error 03-00" message that I can't clear and power on/off unplugging etc. hasn't fixed it either. Zero clue? So sent an email to Perlisten (we'll see). If anyone has a idea of encountered this please chime in. Not having good luck with subs, one of my JL E112's lost it's high pass filter switch and I haven't had subs in my systems for about 4-5 months.

As for crossover setting and high pass settings I've listen at great lengths and my CR-1 has a bypass for both speakers and sub so you can on/off to A/B compare and honestly the Sopra is a down firing speaker and yeah they're close to the wall, my room is 9' ceilings, 16' X 45' (WxD) essentially, but has some out croppings that widen out behind me in this picture.

With my Sopras I exhaustedly A/B tested the high pass cut off point of my speakers and I could here truncation in very fast, layered and dynamic music (Andrew Bayer's Opening Act is my best example) around 33-35hz point, however I did have the crossover set on the E112's at 60hz (I just took a look at my other system) so you could very well be right as far as moving that up ward. But I need to dB meter my listening cause on the Perlisten I was doing relatively lower volume listening and I would crank my crossover via the Perlisten app to 160hz and volume 12 and I wasn't overwhelmed by overly boomey and bloated bass with the D12's. Again I only had one day of listening and now the Error code.

@ja_kub_sz I have never encountered an error message on my subs that have now been in service for over a year.  I have talked with Perlisten in the past and they are responsive and helpful.  As to a high pass on a full range floor stander I understand the issues and many approaches. If I had bookshelf speakers that makes a great deal of sense.  However with full range if you high pass at 60hz you're probably eliminating much of your mains low bass woofer function.  

Ja_kub_sz,

 

Your system looks nice. Sorry to hear about your sub issues. JL’s electronics in their E-subs are pretty much trash. I have had both mine fixed twice so I am effectively on my 5th and 6th sub from them. They fixed them under warranty and then once out of warranty it was $500 for a full rebuild. They changed out everything (including the driver) in my original box. If you ever want to fix the JL there is a repair program.

 

The internal highpass on the E112 works well but adds a lot of hiss to the system (my speakers are 93db eff) and I need to get an external crossover sooner than later.

I like reading about the sub comparisons so please update the thread when you make a decision. I plan to switch out my JLs. I am leaning toward JTR RS1 or the JBLs SUB18s that match my speakers (pricey and don’t go that low). I have read a direct comparison of the RS1 to the E112 where the RS1 was more textured for music. They are huge and ugly but I am setup as a combo music/theater room so looks matter less. I have also considered the Perlistens but the price gives me a moment of pause, so they need to be really good at their asking price.

Music tastes might play a part in crossover point. I have also played with my crossover point for years and I can mirror your opinion. The 4367 has great textured bass but lacks the power under 40hz for that dynamic thump. At 40hz crossover for me I a near perfect blend but moving up to 60hz I gain a ton of dynamics and slam for modern music. I might lose a touch of texture at 60hz but it could be debated. Above 60hz the sub can be clearly heard with its damped bass. If you listen mostly to “audiophile” music I could see enjoying a 40hz crossover mor than 60hz  

Anyway good discussion, there seems to be very few people who buy and compare different subs for music. I for one think it matters a lot. Sadly high efficiency large driver subs might be a better choice for music than some of these very inefficient subs on the market.