Fuses


I’ve read of views on whether amp fuses impart any sound quality or coloring. I had a recent experience that has made me re-think my views (fuses do not affect sound) and wondered if others had a similar experience. 
I have a Line Magnetic integrated amp. After heavy regular use for over 5 years, one day it just wouldn’t power up. After checking the power supply, I assumed it must be a blown fuse. I recalled that Line Magnetic sent with the amp two replacement fuses of the same type/quality that was pre-installed. I dug out one of them from storage, replaced the fuse and the amp powered up normally. 

What surprised and delighted me was the change in sound with the replacement fuse. Fuller bass, more detail and more warmth. I have rolled the tubes several times in the amp, and am attuned to the subtle changes that can make. Popping in a fresh fuse seems to have had a similar affect. And these appear to be cheap fuses, available for a few dollars at most. I don’t think I understand any of this. 
bmcbrad
@grannyring, that's exactly the info I was looking for.

 They have an uncanny sense of ease to them
I then do not need the Duelund's influence going by what you said. I use Mills a lot as I find them a 'safe' resistor to use but as always, looking for and hoping for something great but at a lower price which lead me to the Powertron.

The Path are twice the price but my XO only uses 2 per side. I have long tried to reduce the number of components in my XO designs by eschewing the industries fixation on a flat frequency response which inevitably impacts on other more important areas, and when you add the room's response then the life-sapping extra components are pointless, except if you need your creation to pander to the measurement brigade. When I have managed to find driver sensitivities that match and allow me to forego any resistors, I have found the result to be more 'comfortable' and more immersive.

Oh, and to keep this on topic, I do not use FUSES in my crossovers 😎


Quick question,  what is your guy's experience  with bypassing caps? 
Does it add anything to sound? or just smear it, and cause coherency issues? 
Say Duelund bypass caps, .01uf Silver foil, bypassing bigger caps on a tweeter, or even mids. 
Thanks. 



Quick question, what is your guy’s experience with bypassing caps?
Does it add anything to sound? or just smear it, and cause coherency issues?

By-passing powersupply or voltage rail caps is a good idea, but it’s not a good idea to bypass caps that are in the signal path as they will have different time constants, and smear at frequencies where they are both doing work.
Alway use the best quality "single cap" in the signal path.

Cheers George
Oregonpapa's forum is closed so I am contributing here.   In my system, the SR blue fuses and outlets sound warm and inviting.  I tried an SR orange fuse and found it to be more open, possibly more dynamic but stuck with the blue.   The black fuse and outlet have a grainy sound, less dynamic, clear and warm compared to the blue.   So, skipping the orange, the purple is touted as superior (in all ways?) to the orange.  That would be a great accomplishment at $199.  

The other complaint concerning the black fuse is that it took literally 72 hours prior to sounding listenable/good.   The blue fuses sounded superior from the time I stuck it in compared to 1000+ hours on black fuses.  I hope that the purple fuses sound better as soon as they are installed and not suffer through 50 to 100 hours prior to sounding great.  I just don't have the patience and don't like wasting tubes.
Thank you. @georgehifi
You just saved me some money, much appreciated.

Also  I am making some fuses with Gold Plated OCC Copper wire from Neotech (3x).1mm strands, and some OCC Copper fuses .2mm strand. Each coming out to about 7.5-8 amps.
Quick question, again if anyone knows, are there any commercial fuses that have this wire construction? Gold plated copper wire.