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Yet Another Post About Power Conditioners!

OK, OK, so I know there are eleventy billion posts about what power conditioners are better than others. I've read them all...yes, all eleventy billion! But, I am still wondering which one I should chose.

Here's the backdrop: I have four dedicated, 20-amp outlets. There's a bunch of noise on them. So bad I can hear a local hip hop station clearly playing through my Greenwave Dirty Noise Filter w/speaker. I use an assortment of very high-end, and expensive power cables,. I use very expensive, high-end outlets. My system consists of a Mobile Fidelity Ultradeck, a PS Audio GCHP phone stage, an AudioLab 6000CDT transport, a Burson Audio 3x Reference headphone amp, and Focal Clear headphones. Everything is connected with really good interconnects, most of which are balanced. Having downsized from a much larger, much more power system, these nuggets suit my current needs just fine.

Still that AC noise. Given the size of my system, it's silly to spend mega-bucks on a regenerator, or the expensive balanced isolation transformer PCs. Based on my research, I've narrowed my choices to these in the $1500 and under price range:

Furman Elite 15 or 20 PFi (used)
AudioQuest Niagara 1200
PS Audio Dectect
Core Power Equi=Core 1000 or 1800 (no return policy, ugh)
Shunyata Hydra 8 (used)
Decware ZLC (10-12 month wait, ugh)
NuPrime Pure AC-4
Toroid BTE500E or 1000E Balanced Transformer
Tripplite ISO500 or 500HG Isolation Transformer
Torus TOT Mini Balanced Transformer

Yes, that's an extensive list, but my search reveals these are the top choices by many folks, as well as a few, little-known contenders.

If you have actual experience with any of these--and have compared them to other PCs, your opinion or recommendations would be appreciated greatly. You're welcome to suggest others, too, if you've done hands-on comparisons.


output555
jea48
4,313 posts
 
@output555


**IF** the dedicated ground rod is all the electrician used for the ground for the duplex receptacle outlets then there is not a safety equipment ground connection back to the electrical service electrical panel equipment ground.
What you have is no different than using ground cheaters at the wall outlets that your audio equipment that use the equipment ground for electrical safety.


Actually if that is what the electrician did what you have is worse than just using ground a cheater to lift the safety equipment ground at the wall outlets.


If you have a multi meter set the meter to auto AC volts. measure for voltage from the neutral contact to the equipment ground contact at one of the wall outlets. If the branch circuit wiring equipment grounding conductor is connected to the ground terminal on the outlet you should measure zero volts nominal. The reason the voltage should read zero volts nominal is because the equipment grounding conductor is connected to the grounded electrical service neutral conductor. That is the common ground point for the building structure.


bslon's avatar
bslon
2,068 posts
 
Of the units on your list I’d go with the Hydra 8. I preferred it to the Equi=Tech balanced unit I demo’d because it sounded better in my system, it sits quietly doing its job without any noise or hum and has no indicator lights or meters.
output555 OP
120 posts
 
To jea48: That's great advice. Just to be clear when testing with the multimeter, do I measure the ground voltage with the circuit breaker on or off? I don't want to get fried making a bad contact. Also, assuming he did install the grounding rod incorrectly, is correcting this problem a big deal?
output555 OP
120 posts
 
To bslon: Thanks. There are a couple used ones I've found for around $1k, so I may bite the bullet with one of them. There was a stellar deal on a Puritan PSM-156 this morning on Audiogon but it was sold within minutes. Shucks.
jea48
4,313 posts
 
@output555

It doesn’t matter if the breaker is on or off. By the way the T slot on the 20 amp outlet is the neutral contact.

IF the electrician only connected the ground rod to the outlet equipment ground terminal you will be measuring for a difference of potential, voltage, from the dedicated ground rod to the grounding system, (Grounding Electrode System), of the electrical service of the house.

The electrical service main neutral conductor is connected to earth by what is called a Grounding Electrode Conductor that is connected to all earthed Grounding Electrodes.

Audio dedicated ground rod >> to equipment ground contact/terminal on wall outlet >> volt meter >> neutral contact/branch circuit neutral conductor >> to neutral bar in main electrical panel >> Grounding Electrode Conductor >> to earthed Grounding Electrode(s)

FWIW there are multitudes of multiple stray voltages potentials in the earth. The common electrical source is the Utility Power Company.

I did not say to check for continuity from the equipment ground contact to the neutral contact because you don’t know for sure what the electrician did 25 years ago.
IF the dedicated rod is only connected to the ground terminal on the outlet, therein not also connected to the branch circuit wiring equipment grounding conductor, a difference of potential, voltage, between the two contacts could possibly damage the meter if it was set to ohms to check for continuity.
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