Peeking inside a Carver Crimson 275 Tube Amplifier


So, I just had to pop the hood on the Carver Crimson 275 tube amplifier. I was so curious as to how this little guy weighs so little and sounds so lovely.

  • The layout is simple and clean looking. Unlike the larger monoblocks (that cost $10k), this model uses a PCB.
  • The DC restorer circuit is nicely off to one side and out of the way. It doesn’t look all that complicated but I’m no electrical engineer. Why don’t more designers use this feature? It allows the power tubes to idle around 9.75w. Amazingly efficient.
  • The amp has very good planned out ventilation and spacing. No parts are on top of each other.
  • Most of the parts quality is good. There’s a host of Dale resistors, what look like Takmans, nice RCA jacks, heavy teflon hookup wire, and so on.
  • Some of the parts quality is questionable. There’s some cheap Suntan (Hong Kong mfr.) film caps coupled to the power tubes and some no name caps linked to the gain signal tubes. I was not happy to see those, but I very much understand building stuff to a price point.
Overall, this is a very tidy build and construction by the Wyred4Sound plant in California is A grade. I’m wondering a few things.

Does the sound quality of this amp bear a relationship to the fact that there’s not too much going on in the unit? There are very few caps--from what this humble hobbyist can tell--in the signal chain. And, none of these caps are even what many would consider decent quality--i.e. they aren’t WIMA level, just generic. This amplifier beat out a PrimaLuna Dialogue HP (in my room/to my ears...much love for what PrimaLuna does). When I explored the innards of the PrimaLuna, it was cramped, busy and had so much going on--a way more complicated design.

Is it possible that Bob Carver, who many regard as a wily electronics expert, is able to truly tweak the sound by adding a resistor here or there, etc.? Surely all designers are doing this, but is he just really adroit at this? I wonder this because while some parts quality is very good to excellent, I was shocked to see the Suntan caps. They might be cheaper than some of the Dale resistors in the unit. I should note that Carver reportedly designed this amp and others similar with Tim de Paravicini--no slouch indeed!

I have described the sound of this amp as delicious. It’s that musical and good. But, as our esteemed member jjss [ @jjss ] pointed out in his review, he wondered if the sound quality could be improved further still. He detected a tiny amount of sheen here and there [I cannot recall his exact words.] even though he loved it like I do.

I may extract the two .22uF caps that look to be dealing with signal related to the 12at7 gain tubes and do a quick listening test.
128x128jbhiller
JB i would echo @jjss49  kind and accurate words. Cool room and groove, cool system…. Keep on trucking and soldering !
@fmalitz, Hope all is well with you!  Your curriculum vitae is impressive indeed!  Thanks for dropping by these humble parts.  

I trust you know, from my correspondence and previous phone call or two, that I respect everything you, EJ, and Bob have done and are doing.  

All the best!  

@tomic601,thank you Sir!  I really enjoy learning, listening, tweaking and the journey.  It is a passion and a hobby after all. 
I have a great Bob Carver system.  My Magnepan 1.6 QR have bypassed factory crossovers.  They are bi-amped by a pair of Carver 350 monoblocks (woofers) and one Carver 275 (tweeters) using a Marchand vacuum tube electronic crossover.  The preamp is a Vacuum Tube Audio SP14 by Roy Mottard.  (The monoblocks are early iterations of the 350 series and have red, “Crimson,” chassis, but are definitely 350 watts per channel.)
so jbh - would you please write a short post with specifics as to your passive components mod (sorry to make you repeat this), so that i can pass the info to my tech to replicate your successful minor surgery to the unit?

i have my parts connexion account locked and loaded to order the caps etc etc!!

thanks in advance!  🙏
@jjss49, 

Sure thing.  

1. Output Coupling Caps:  

Four (4) .68uF 630v ClarityCap CMR
Four (4) .1uF 630v ClarityCap CMR

Available at PartsConnexion.

2.  2 Caps on Pre/Gain Tubes.  Note, I don't have a schematic so I'm taking my best guess as to what caps ore on the signal input side of things. 

Available at VCap. 

Two (2) .22uF V-Cap CuTF 300v (matched to at least 5% or lower)

3.  Resistors 

Two (2) 36k ohm (36kR) 5watt. Kiwame
Two (2) 39k ohm (39kR) 5 watt Kiwame

Available at PartsConnexion. 

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Some notes:  

If I did this again, I might use VCap ODAMs throughout.  They are so amazing.  ClarityCaps are very good to excellent too and I adore their sound as well.  ODAMs can sound better than even the VCap CuTF to me. 

Your tech is probably better and smarter than I.  But, those two sets of 36k and 39k resistors right in the middle of the board are placed counterintuively.  They do not seem to be symmetrically placed to the circuit.  Even though I took photos in case I needed to see the original layout, I still installed one channel's 36k and 39k resistors incorrectly--I swapped them.  Well, that channel was super faint as an extra 3k ohm of resistance (I had a 39k where a 36k should go) made the output too low.  Takeaway--be sure to follow exactly how they are in there to begin with.  It's easy to do one side/channel and mirror it on the other, which is incorrect.  You won't blow anything up, but it won't work right and you'll know it.  

Here's a photo from my virtual system for your tech. https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/9364#&gid=1&pid=7

PS--There's no need to duplicate exactly what I did.  Any decent cap will be an upgrade over the cheap, generic caps that were in there.  

There's a couple of giant Dale dark grey/black resistors on the input side of things.  I suppose you could look at Mills, Ohmite, etc.