The only place a fuse has an audible effect is if it is placed in series on one of the + or - conductors of speaker wire. It will increase resistance and decrease damping factor. A bad way to protect a speaker from excessive voltage!
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
jasonbourne52, This is exactly where I found out about fuses and their effect on speaker SQ. I am still a BIG fan of the old Infinity RS and IRS series speaker..
I'm going to add dampening through a passive XO is NO dampening AT ALL. ADD a fuse or four (4) and they takes the brunt of that type of fuse arrangement.
None the less if you don't bypass the fuses circuit or keep it in VERY good condition along with all the LPads.. SQ is the first to suffer. The first time was QLS1s the second was RSIIbs in the 80s.
NOW add a 1 ohm load in the mix like the Kappa 9.0 or 8.0 series and you have a disaster because of a FUSE and ZERO dampening to boot because the drivers are NOT direct coupled to the bass amp.
George understands how an amp works VERY well and so do you, it seems. My question is why not try a fuse in the sound path and see if it makes a difference.
IF you read some of the CRAP I post, you'll see I had much better luck using "The Fuse" in the path and less of an effect in the PS AC path especially with amps LIKE, First Watt, Pass, Mcintosh, etc. BUT in a NP design with fuses on the other side of the AC PS, fancy fuses not only made a difference, in some cases it lead me to BYPASS the fuse circuit all together..
Carys V12R is an exception to the rule. I use a great AC power cable and a blue SR fuse (from an ACME gold) with great success. BUT I really didn't notice the BIG change until I change the fuses on the other side of the power supply. The V12 has THREE. The same way with the NP design had 2-4 depends on the design..
I'm not saying spend the big money, I'm saying that in quit a few situations IF the fuse is put in the path between good parts (Power supply to amp rail), WHY would you want to feed the amp module with the cheapest piece of lead/tin/aluminum/whatever you could find. Much like a standard Busman fuse.
On either side of that fuse holder is GREAT copper, silver or silver clad wire. It's not a bottleneck at all, it's straight up a fuse with TONE control.. :-)
Mechanically I can explain my position, technically, I may lack the understanding of WHY, but I do know where to look for the greatest improvement in spite of the COST of a product..
Regards
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
jasonbourne52, This is exactly where I found out about fuses and their effect on speaker SQ. I am still a BIG fan of the old Infinity RS and IRS series speaker..
I'm going to add dampening through a passive XO is NO dampening AT ALL. ADD a fuse or four (4) and they takes the brunt of that type of fuse arrangement.
None the less if you don't bypass the fuses circuit or keep it in VERY good condition along with all the LPads.. SQ is the first to suffer. The first time was QLS1s the second was RSIIbs in the 80s.
NOW add a 1 ohm load in the mix like the Kappa 9.0 or 8.0 series and you have a disaster because of a FUSE and ZERO dampening to boot because the drivers are NOT direct coupled to the bass amp.
George understands how an amp works VERY well and so do you, it seems. My question is why not try a fuse in the sound path and see if it makes a difference.
IF you read some of the CRAP I post, you'll see I had much better luck using "The Fuse" in the path and less of an effect in the PS AC path especially with amps LIKE, First Watt, Pass, Mcintosh, etc. BUT in a NP design with fuses on the other side of the AC PS, fancy fuses not only made a difference, in some cases it lead me to BYPASS the fuse circuit all together..
Carys V12R is an exception to the rule. I use a great AC power cable and a blue SR fuse (from an ACME gold) with great success. BUT I really didn't notice the BIG change until I change the fuses on the other side of the power supply. The V12 has THREE. The same way with the NP design had 2-4 depends on the design..
I'm not saying spend the big money, I'm saying that in quit a few situations IF the fuse is put in the path between good parts (Power supply to amp rail), WHY would you want to feed the amp module with the cheapest piece of lead/tin/aluminum/whatever you could find. Much like a standard Busman fuse.
On either side of that fuse holder is GREAT copper, silver or silver clad wire. It's not a bottleneck at all, it's straight up a fuse with TONE control.. :-)
Mechanically I can explain my position, technically, I may lack the understanding of WHY, but I do know where to look for the greatest improvement in spite of the COST of a product..
Regards