Power cord choice?


Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
rsjm80
@zyphryx

If you are curious about a new power conditioner, take a look at PI Audio's UberBuss. Very reasonably priced and as good or better as much more expensive PWC's.

Also, the power cable to the power conditioner is the most important PC in the chain.

If you are able to get a 20A or 30A dedicated line installed from your breaker box to your equipment receptacle, you will notice a big sonic improvement.

Being conditioned to first check Amazon for what they offer in terms of brands, I recently searched for power cables. I had just come from a showroom demo of McIntosh offerings, which included an unexpected, eye-opening demonstration of why they were using a $1,000 power cable. I had never heard or even seen a modern McIntosh component and was impressed by the beautiful power cable I assumed was native to McIntosh. I learned it was a special cable because it "sounded better". I was a bit put off that I was potentially not hearing the true sound of what I was there to purchase, the MA-9000. It still bothers me a bit that maybe it’s assumed at this level(?) that you either already have a "worthy" power cable will be leaving with the cabling heard in the sound room. Anyway, I asked that the stock cord be fetched so I could AB them. In the end I was shocked, awed, educated and disappointed. Yes, disappointed. I now had to have worthy cable. After all, we all want perfection, right? We all want to not be responsible for holding back our big investments, right? It’s how I’m built, so I was off to Amazon. The MA-9000 was home and needed to "properly" tap the wall. It took two days of endless research and I decided to roll the dice on the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T6P8YS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was sold on the image of how the cable is built / shielded, especially vs so many others. I have zero affiliation with Viborg or any other company in this industry. I’m simply a noob audiophile who recently dove into the hifi waters.

Realizing I’ve written a wall of text, I’ll cut to the chase. The difference at my home between the stock cord and this were exponentially more significant than the store demo. The difference was not eye-opening, it was jaw-dropping in terms of better dynamics, power, volume and detail. It’s something I now show friends and I love seeing their reaction! This is the best purchase I’ve made for so little money. I do not need to hear another cable because I’m happy.

The moral here is not to get a Viborg, but to test the waters before you spend big. There are diamonds in the rough. Best of luck.

@vinylshadow
I just looked at the website. That is beautiful equipment. Thanks for turning me on to PI. Currently I'm still using a Niagara 1200 which was definitely needed in the condo setup. I went with the AudioQuest NRG-Z3 for the wall-to-device cord. When I started replacing the stock pcs, the dealer recommended Nordost Red Dawn. I could not detect a difference.  I'm not saying there wasn't a difference but if there was, I could not hear it. If I'm being honest, I just liked the look of the Red Dawns so one by one I replaced the stock pcs. I do have a house I'm going to remodel and I plan on installing a dedicated 20a circuit in the the hi fi room. I upgrade to the PI after all. Thanks vinylshadow

Hello,
My recommendation would be a Puritan PSM156 power conditioner. $2300 sound like a lot. If I had a $500 system today I would buy this power conditioner knowing what I know. It is that good. I would like to know which piece of equipment you are putting this one PC on. Also what are the models of the rest of your gear. I am a music audiophile but more importantly an equipment or gear audiophile. So I have heard the differences in several cables. If your system is not resolving enough you may not hear the difference or you need to correct the power from the wall first. Just add better ground rods (2) 8’ deep to your main breaker box will go really far. That panel and system is designed for your A/C, dryer, oven. Not your audio gear. Also, get you line going to your gear off your A/C phase or your refrigerator. It does make a difference. For what your asking out of the blue is a Nordost Blue Heaven. This is under $400. Even on my Denon surround receiver it took it to another level. If this is an amplifier go with Nordost Red Dawn and Blue Heaven on everything else. If you get a little more money in your budget go with Straightwire Black Thunder or even better Pro Thunder on the amp or preamp. Then Blue Heaven on the rest. On an amp you really need AWG of at least 14 AWG. Otherwise it’s like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw. If it’s an integrated go with the Black Thunder. If you have a CD player, DAC streamer that sounds a little too digital or a class D amp that is a little too dry go with the Puritan Classic plus. Really nice cable for $240 that really expands the decay. If you are in the Chicagoland area this store is a dealer:
https://holmaudio.com/
They let you try before you buy. I have several types of systems in my house so yes, I have tested all of this and I have a really good ear. I hope this helped. There are dealers all over the world for all of these products. 
I enjoyed @thyname ‘s post. I’ve thought for a while about how plumbing and electrical wiring are different. This explains why. Thank you!