testing a crossover

Okay... I think I am having trouble following. Also there might be a bit of confusion around resistance (DC) and impedance (AC). When you read the resistance across the loudspeaker terminals it has very little to do with the nominal impedance of the speakers (this is even true if you measure across the driver itself). You have a high pass filter on both the mid (12µF) and the tweeter (4.2µF) so if everything is working correctly you should get an open circuit when you attempt to measure resistance across the loudspeaker posts with everything connected.

I’ll tell you what I think I’ve understood and you put me right if I’ve misunderstood:

1) Original test with everything assembled showed 0Ω resistance across the MF/HF +/- terminals on the back of the speaker.
2) Those terminals connect directly to IP+ and IP- on the crossover PCB.
3) With the crossover disconnected the DC resistance between IP+ and IP- was open circuit.
If points 1-3 are correct and you’ve put it back together and measured 0Ω across the loudspeaker terminals then there’s a short somewhere between the terminals and where the wires connect to IP+ and IP-.

4) With everything disconnected from the crossover you measured the resistance across the copper you have marked M+ and M- and got 0Ω.
5) According to the schematic M+ and M- should be connected (at DC) via 2.5µH inductor (of negligible DC resistance) and a 2.2Ω resistor.
6) On your most recent test you measured 2.7Ω.
If point 4 was true then you’d most certainly have overloaded your amp and would have got no sound from the driver... however the most recent measurement shows no such problem.

likklegerry - Thanks for your test data, looks like everything except the Lo and Hi bi-wire connections are in line with what I expected. Just to be clear, with the amplifier and other electronics off, an ohm meter test between the HF+ and LF+ terminals should be 0.0 ohms. Same should be true of the HF- and LF- terminals. This can be measure at the speaker or amplifier terminals.
The diode mode tests at the HF and LF connectors also show what I was expecting.
The dc resistance measurements with the drivers disconnected are in line of what is expected too. Don't worry if it's mH or not, trust us, it is mH.
Which capacitors (value) is showing shorted in the diode mode? The caps themselves should be tested in the ohm mode. I will continue reading an ask questions or make comments as needed.
Please do the resistance test between the HF and LF terminals as described above. This is in the bi-wire configuration with all wires connected to one amplifier.

between the HF+ and LF+ terminals should be 0.0 ohms

do you mean open circuit?.. Not being snarky, just checking :-).

You have made me think of something though... if you forgot to take the shorting plate/wires off the loudspeaker posts when switching to a bi-amp config you could get enough current flowing between the two amplifiers to blow one of them.

pragmasi - I assume your post above was meant for me? I guess I really didn't need an answer to the last 2 sentences of my above post because I'm sure the answer is really yes, and maybe confusing to some.
You are absolutely correct about forgetting the jumpers when switching from bi-wiring to bi-amping. That could easily blow one or both amps used in a bi-amp configuration.

Dude, you should have followed my advice and you'd be done by now. :)