My really dumb tube mistake(s)


8 years ago, I bought a sweet sounding Line Magnetic amp for my office system which a few years ago died and had to go to the repair shop. $500 later it was back working, but then recently I noticed the sound was getting thin, I couldn’t bias the tubes and thought something else was wrong with it, arghh.

Then I noticed one newer tube was able to be biased and decided to replace all 4 KT-88 power tubes.
Presto, the amp sounded great again!

Like the boiled frog, the sound degradation had been so gradual my brain had gradually adjusted. But the new tubes brought it back to life.

So, then I thought, wow, maybe I should try the same thing in my primary system with my Primaluna monoblocks, switch out the Primaluna tubes for some new Gold Lions. Again - wow! What a difference. Like I bought new amps, much richer and fuller sounding.

Tubes wear out, even if they don’t blow out.
Yes, duh, it’s a good idea to replace them every 4 years or so and not wait eight.
cdc2
Sorry for the long post, but I felt the explanation would help.
This is a subject that is for me difficult to cover without explanation.

I personally look at tubes as an electronic Interface, that has a ease of use, as a method for carrying out exchanges. 

My personal experience from taking part in carrying out exchanges,
has on most occasions been done as part of group, with myself supplying the device to undergo Tube Rolling.  
Doing this has allowed me to experience quite a lot of Tubes, of which some are very well regarded.
I have heard well regarded Valves, that when placed into a Circuit, 
which have almost needed to be removed with immediate effect, 
as the SQ was not one that was wanted.
This was not a personal choice, but a request by a group in attendance.

If I recollect a Orange Print Amperex Bugle Boy was one such Valve used in a DAC,I knew of it, I was interested in it, when used, 
it was a very short lived audition.
On a later occasion, the exact same pair when used on a Phonostage,  were very well received, if a little thin in the presentation.

My experiences allows me to say that Valves with a Good Reputation and are to be found as recommendations, can fail to deliver a good result,
when used in a certain electronic interface.
So jumping into Tube Rolling without acquiring knowledge, seems to be a increased risk, to successfully finding a Personal Sweet Spot with the Valve selection.    

Tube rolling can prove costly, the cost can be impacted by Valve Selection, or accumulating Valves that have not met expectations, and then there are other pitfalls of being supplied Valves that are not measuring up to a usable standard.

I ordered during 2020 Two Matched Pairs of Same Brand 1960's ECC 83 from the same Vendor.
With the intention of producing Two Close Matched Sets.

It was agreed that I would have them Tested on a AVO Test Rig and a return would be accepted pending the test .
One Pair measured very high and slightly over the New Measurement,
(very pleased).
One Pair was between 50% to 70%, depending on the Valve
It took two further supplies of ECC83's that were still measuring quite low, before I got a refund on one pair.
Not all Vendors will be so tolerant.  
Prior to this, a Vendor sent me abusive mails for requesting a Valve return following a Test carried out at my end. 
  
If a modern $20 - 40 Rectifier Valve is claimed to have a similar 
 SQ / Performance of a $200 NOS Valve, and a person is entering into the world of Tube Rolling, the cheaper Valve would be the most cost effective place to start, if a Valve is to be exchanged. 
There should be a change in a performance that will allow an assessment as to the value of the addition.  

I have devices that use ECC88, ECC81, ECC83, 6SN7 and 845's
I have been supported by being loaned Valves that are Closely Matched NOS,  that have been Tube Rolled, those being all the above apart from the 845's. 
As a result some of my Valve Choices have been, more a case of having the Valve to be used already identified, and a purchase tested, to make sure the Valve is sold as described.     
Post removed 
This may seem like a dumb question, but can a tube tester provide the status of a tube prior to failure? 
My system started sounding thin and lifeless last year. I got my tube tester out and went through my gear one at a time. Found a tube in my pre amp that tested very low. Changed it out and now back to amazing music. Not sure how I would have proceeded without my tube tester short of replacing one tube at a time until I found the bad one. Or, at a very high cost, replace all the tubes at one time.

When music turns lifeless, lacking, punch, drive, dynamics, air, bass, then is time to check which tube has gone bad, no need to blow if its an output tube. Or even if they cannot bias properly (output ones). For me it should be best to change all output tubes at the same time. A tube tester will not show when a tube is going to go bad but can give a good indication of its life. So if close to end of life readings, replace. Always have a spare set, you never know.

G