Doug, I did the surround because I really didn't have much choice. Either fix it or get it fixed so I can use the speakers. Again, it won't be like the original F, because the surround characteristics is different than what Ohm had. It will play, however, as a interim solution until I got new Ohms.
I didn't use tape of any kind, because I was afraid the tape could tear the surround attachment part. The new and old surrounds could have different attachment ring diameters. I just thought of an idea that you could use the painters tape to mark the original edge of the surround attachment to the metal rim say in four perpendicular locations, but not on the surround itself. When you try to attach the new surround, it will either be smaller diameter which makes it easier to center relative to the tape, or larger diameter which you'd have to mark the new diameter with more tape and compare the original and new marked positions for centering. You could also measure the new surround diameter and mark that with additional tape relative to the original surround diameter tape marks.
I don't recall what glue was used for the surrounds. I ordered the surrounds from Stepp Audio Technologies in North Carolina. I supplied them the relevant dimensions and cone angle. I cannot find that company anymore on the web. It was 25 years ago!
The spider sagging is from years of weight on it. It could be permanently deformed. I would doubt that turning the driver over will do much in correcting the position, but it's worth a try to see what you get over a given time.
If you're talking the internal cabinet wiring and the binding posts on the bottom of the cabinet, that's conceptually easier to do. I would caution on working on the binding posts on the metal struts holding the magnet assembly, as these attach the fragile wires that go to the cone internal wiring.
I didn't use tape of any kind, because I was afraid the tape could tear the surround attachment part. The new and old surrounds could have different attachment ring diameters. I just thought of an idea that you could use the painters tape to mark the original edge of the surround attachment to the metal rim say in four perpendicular locations, but not on the surround itself. When you try to attach the new surround, it will either be smaller diameter which makes it easier to center relative to the tape, or larger diameter which you'd have to mark the new diameter with more tape and compare the original and new marked positions for centering. You could also measure the new surround diameter and mark that with additional tape relative to the original surround diameter tape marks.
I don't recall what glue was used for the surrounds. I ordered the surrounds from Stepp Audio Technologies in North Carolina. I supplied them the relevant dimensions and cone angle. I cannot find that company anymore on the web. It was 25 years ago!
The spider sagging is from years of weight on it. It could be permanently deformed. I would doubt that turning the driver over will do much in correcting the position, but it's worth a try to see what you get over a given time.
If you're talking the internal cabinet wiring and the binding posts on the bottom of the cabinet, that's conceptually easier to do. I would caution on working on the binding posts on the metal struts holding the magnet assembly, as these attach the fragile wires that go to the cone internal wiring.