Worth the effort? Cabling inside sub


I'm upgrading a Zu Undertone Mk II sub.

- I'm gonna recap it, since I've found the caps are a lower tier brand.
- The cabling to the driver itself looks real good.

BUT, the wires for the signal input. Would you upgrade them? I'm thinking... they are really thin. See pix in link.

ALSO: other things to consider? 

Pix link: http://https//www.dropbox.com/sh/i21cd3shuvnzh55/AAD3StrKl8wZ8coYrWb69v6Aa?dl=0
128x128eyrepm
And its worse than nonsense to conflate and confuse internal cabling, the wire from the amp to the driver which does carry a lot of current, with the input wire, which does not.. Can't keep something that simple straight, why expect any better from the rest?

Btw, doesn't YMMV mean your mileage may vary? As in, expect different results? So what you really said is, You'll be pleased with the results... unless something different happens. Brilliant!
Dear @eyrepm :  """  It's nonsense to suggest a subwoofer would not benefit from upgrades such as internal cable and caps. """

Agree totally with that statement from @douglas_schroeder . Millercarbon and whom gave him the advise are wrong and if they can be aware of a change in the quality level pérfomance for the better could be only because their systems are really poor in resolution and quality or are " deaf ".

I did it changes in my Velodyne's, changing all internal wiring using all silver KCAG by Kimber Kable. Big diferences. If you want to change caps in the electronics the Wima FKP-1 are better that what you or other people can thing.

Anyway, go a head.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.


@imhififan
sorry! Suggestions for better hosting of pics?

Thank you for your inputs! I’ve calculated the prices and I’m just gonna give it a shot. It came to about $100, and another of these subs new will be $3400, unless another freak incident happens and I get another one really cheap.

Off topic: stick to the same model if you’re going stereo subs or just try to match specs?
Here are two corrected versions of the link the OP provided, both of which work:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i21cd3shuvnzh55/AAD3StrKl8wZ8coYrWb69v6Aa?dl=0

http://www.dropbox.com/sh/i21cd3shuvnzh55/AAD3StrKl8wZ8coYrWb69v6Aa?dl=0

(Note the differences at the beginning of these links compared to his original version, involving http, https, and colons). 

Regards,
-- Al

@rauliruegas
I’ve looked at the WIMA FKP-1s now. I see that I have similar looking parts on the boards. Are these the same types? Because I see they look different than regular can types of electrolytic capacitors.

If they are the same types, are these the ones you’ve also switched out?

@almarg

thank you for the fix. Stupid mistake.


ALSO: Edited one of the images. The green circled cables will be swapped. But I'm thinking... the red circled cables are also the link to the driver. Betting this should be swapped, too? If yes then I'm betting it would be easier to do if I removed the connectors/ports... Or maybe not. Maybe resolder the connectors.