How do SVS subwoofers compare to REL?

I had a quick look at the SB16 specifications. From what I can see it can do some basic manual equalization, but it does not measure response, let alone correct it automatically - but correct me if I am wrong. Beyond that, I think is is an enviable subwoofer for people with really large rooms.

@steve_zettel  thanks. I have to say I am leaning toward SVS subwoofers. The Sumiko also look interesting to me. But SVS's 45 day free trial (free shipping both ways) makes it so easy to give them a try first. Unless I learn something new in the next few days, I think I'll order something from SVS.

@axememan suggested the PC-2000. Does anyone else have thoughts on the cylindrical subwoofers. I believe they are ported. But the compact footprint is very attractive to me and would work well in my room.

@willemj: You are correct. There are three available manual eq bands. No auto eq, so some other means of measurement are required. I use StudioSixDigital AudioTools app and their iTestMic (http://studiosixdigital.com/) or REW and a minidsp.com UMIK test mic for determining in-room response. The SVS iPad app makes adjustments very easy and allows adjustments from the sweet spot with a graphical representation of the amplitude and Q of the cut or boost being dialed in.

I use two bands to knock down the two most prominent peaks in my room and one band to raise the lowest bass roll-off. Plenty of headroom in the powerful SB16 Ultra amp to tolerate a reasonable amount of boost in the very lowest octave.

And I think you are absolutely right about the Ultras being best suited for larger rooms. I can't imagine being in a small room with one, let alone the two Ultras I have in my largish volume. Then again, there are folks who really, really like sledgehammer bass (check out the insane auto sound bass videos on Youtube for a sample).

@lowoverdrive: You are welcome. I can't speak to the PC-2000 but I do understand your concern about footprint. The SB16 Ultras are basically a 19 to 20" cube. A very attractive black cube in their gloss black finish, but there is no overlooking them in the room, unless you hide them behind something or use them as end tables. I had a piece of dark gray smoked glass cut to size to place on top of each sub to protect the finish so I can put something on top of the subs and not worry about marring them. And I am very glad I opted for the SVS isolation feet to decouple the subs from my hardwood floor.

SVS have super customer service, are very responsive with questions and have a great trade up policy, along with the in-home trial period and free shipping.

Good luck with your subwoofer hunt and let us know how it works out for you.

@steve_zettel thanks again! I noticed your mention of miniDSP and looked up this page: https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series

EDIT: The miniDSP products look too complex for me right now. I'm just learning about all this stuff. The Antimode 8033 is really simple to use.

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Original post:

Anyone care to comment on how a product like the miniDSP DDRC-22 compares to the DSpeaker Antimode 8033?

I found a couple related forum discussions (in German) which help me understand a bit, but I would appreciate any further advice or recommendations.

When should the miniDSP DDRC-22 be considered as an alternative to the Antimode 8033?

Here’s a google translation of one:
http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-72-5677.html

the two options you mentioned are quite different. An antimode AM 2.0 does not make automatic corrections in the entire frequency range, but only up to a maximum of 500 Hz. In the frequency range overlying adjustments to desired target frequency response can only be made manually. A DDRC uses DIRAC and corrects the entire frequency range, allowing arbitrary target frequency responses. In addition, DIRAC can also correct the time response (ie the step response) to compensate for turnouts of turnouts / chassis. Therefore, I would more credibly trust the DIRAC-based solution.

However, the DDRC-88A you mentioned is an 8-channel analogue solution. If I understand your description correctly, but you would calibrate only the fronts, ie you would einschleifen the DSP between the switch box and the power amplifiers. Then you only need an analog stereo DSP such as a DDRC-22A.

The other discussion:
http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-35-69208.html

I’ve used an Antimode, but haven’t ever used a DDRC. In principle there is no reason why any line-level DSP couldn’t be used between preamp and SVS subwoofers. One would just leave the subwoofer eq flat (as shipped) and let the outboard DSP unit do the room correction.

The biggest difference I see between the two from a very quick skim is that the Antimode addresses the low frequencies, the DDRC corrects the entire frequency range. If you are happy with the response of your Maggies then DDRC would be overkill. In my opinion, the frequencies addressed by the Antimode are the most problematical anyway and far and away swamp most higher frequency response anomalies.

I will say as a matter of my personal prejudices and not in anyway trying to make a statement of absolute fact, I much prefer to use acoustic treatment (absorption, diffusion and bass trapping) as a necessary first step to address room geometry effects and only then apply DSP, and the minimum DSP necessary, after experimenting with speaker placement in an acoustically treated room. The only DSP I apply is to the range addressed by the subwoofers.

But then, I am a guy who still thinks analog sounds better than most digital, even though digital is definitely getting better and I do listen to my share of digital content.