Can an old Thorens Table be "Over Dampend" to the point where sound is adversely effected?


I am sure this topic is not new but I would like a new take on it...So the question is: Can one Over Dampen an older suspension chassis Thorens like a 125,145,160,166 etc.? I am only (in this post) regarding the exposed inner wood of the plinth like the base and inner walls. I have heard in some venues that it is easy to over dampen and KILL the dynamics of one of these older tables...Are they referring to more of the damping of the motor, platter, suspension parts etc. basically the metal parts or any damping? What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
Ag insider logo xs@2xrikintpa

Thanks all

 for all the input! 

So here is the "whole story":  I actually dampened my 125 Long Base on the new Birch Base Plate and all interior walls that I could safely reach It was quite a bit and I was quite proud of myself and my work, that was until I played my first record...a record that I listen to often and know very well.  What can I say the sound lost it's dynamics, Soundstage and worst of all it's verve!  I was nervous I jacked up my stylus or worse my new pre-amp (EAR-834P) it was THAT BAD, so I tried a few other albums that I know to no avail and it was all BAD!  So I re-traced my steps and it came back to the dampening job that I was so proud of.  So the next step was to open her up and remove all the damping that I did, put her back together and tried listening again and, thank the Audiogods, the magic had been restored!  The same Dynamic expansive soundstage was back and most importantly the verve was restored!  I was very surprised that the dampening affect on the sound of my 125 was so different than the sound on my 145!  The 145 came alive while the 125 died.  So the lesson here is damping DOES affect sound and one size does not fit all so let those with direct experience on your particular project be your guide!  And yes I was told it [damping] was not necessary on this Table by its restorer but I did it anyway...Lesson learned.

Your experiences should be a salutary lesson to some, about the dangers of 'over-damping'.
Here is a quote from a learned dissertation on vibrations:-
Damping is always present to some degree in any real system. Without it, there would be no way to limit the amplitude of a resonance. The materials employed to provide damping, the ratio of these materials to those elements that need damping, and the method in which they are applied, all determine how effective any scheme is at reducing broad-band vibrations. However, you cannot mechanically "over-damp" a structure or component that is not designed to be a transducer. You can over-damp some circuits electrically; you can over-damp the "Q" of a speaker as well. You can also over-damp structures associated with a phono cartridge: a tonearm, plinth, etc. But you cannot over-damp a preamp's chassis or an equipment rack.

Note the 'over-damping'revelations concerning phono cartridge, tonearm and plinth.
Despite what some here have been propagating for years....over-damping of turntables, arms etc is not only possible, but can deleteriously affect the sound.
A lot of people like to dampen these older Thornes tables either on the interior of the wooden plinth or all over the inner metal spring board, and arm board, they use things like "Blue Tac" or that Dynamat stuff in car doors. It will kill the sound and rob the life out of the music.
Despite what some here have been propagating for years....over-damping of turntables, arms etc is not only possible, but can deleteriously affect the sound.
You do have to be careful. But damping a plinth usually dosen't get you in trouble, unless that plinth is so floppy to begin with that all you really did was to change the resonant frequency!

One area where people get in trouble is damping the arm board. The arm board has to be rigidly coupled to the plinth to insure that it moves in whatever plane the plinth moves (a corollary is that if the arm board is of a different material from the plinth it can introduce a coloration all by itself). If you've damped it incorrectly, that may not happen and the result is that the pickup will interpret the difference between the plinth and the base of the arm as a coloration. 

The other problem you have to really be keen on is to make sure that you are not treating the turntable as a sort of tone control to synergize with weaknesses elsewhere in the system.
Dear @atmasphere : """  not using damping materials on the arm in such a way that the performance is compromised. For the most part, common sense. """

it's clear that we can't overdamp a TT plinth, as you said maybe only change its frequency resonance.

The key word in all this critical main analog audio damping subject is: " compromised ".

If the damping impede the " free " horizontal/vertical tonearm motion or increment its friction movements then we are in serious trouble but if damping in a tonearm does not contribute against its task then we can't overdamp it.

Same for a cartridge, we can't overdamp as a fact we need and want an innert cartridge other than the stylus/cantilever precise movements ridding the LP grooves.

The arm board mated to the tonearm is of vital importance and here what we need is " serious " coupling in between.

A TT platter can't be overdamped neither, what we can have here is a bad damping but can't overdamp it. We need here an innert TT platter with out compromising its function.

All these damping theories and facts move on according to quality performance at each single link in the audio system chain and what the owner is accustom to or according his music/sound priorities and knowledge levels.

For many of us maybe to much damping could means words as: dull, reduced stage, lower transparency and the like but for other of us this is what we are looking fr because could be nearer to the live event in a near field listen  scenario.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.