Advice- wiring for dedicated sound room

to get it to produce a balanced output? Was it designed that way, or is there a way to do this with any transformer that can take in 220VAC and put out 110VAC? Do you recommend a particular brand/type of transformer?

Abstract7- Would you say more about the transformer? In particular, how did you get it to produce a balanced output? Was it designed that way, or is there a way to do this with any transformer that can take in 220VAC and put out 110VAC? Do you recommend a particular brand/type of transformer?. Does the transformer provide adequate surge suppression?

Other questions:

What types of filters are you using on your analog and digital lines?

"rupertdacat"

Hi,
I just happen to be an electrician. I just finished wiring a high end audio store with two home theatre showrooms. I also have done some audio trouble shooting for people in their homes. I don't claim to know as much as the last two guys. Some of that stuff is out of my league. Very clean power to say the least. Here's what I put in for a $100,000.00 theatre system. I like using a dedicated hot with a dedicated neutral and a isolated ground at each outlet that demands up to 10 amps. Using a 20 amp circuit with a 20 amp IG recptacle(orange). If your less than 150' from the panel I wouldn't worry about voltage drop #12 wire is fine.
If your more than 200' from your panel or do not have adequte room for more breakers I would add a seperate panel near your theatre 80 amps 240 volts will run a good size system, Make sure to add an isolated ground bar in the panel. Then ground to a seperate ground rod independent of your service ground. That will establish clean ground through your system. Tie all your recptacle grounds to the iso grd system. run dedicated 20 amp circuits to all primary power locations. Sub woofer, mono blocks, plasma screens, projector and at least two to your gear. That may sound like a lot of circuits and a hell of a lot of neutrals. Your electrician might even scratch his head over the isolated ground if he is not well versed in electronic installations. But when installed correctly this configuration works dynamite. I do it this way every time.
With much success.

Glen, thanks for sharing your info. It's always good to hear from a professional. I would like to share some of my findings in regards to some of your statements though.

As to your comments about #12 being fine for runs up to 150', i would disagree with that. I have seen VERY noticeable voltage drops at well under 30 amps of draw and for less than 8' of an 8 gauge cable. I would assume that a hard draw of 12 - 15 amps using #12 for the length of run that you mentioned would result in both a measurable voltage drop due to series resistance and dielectric losses and distortion of the AC sine wave. I think that those reasons are why some folks have such good luck with items like the PS Audio Power Plant and other "power regenerators". All of the "losses" and "distortions" are kind of "eaten up" by the regenerators and "reincarnated" as "clean power".

While most folks would think that a LONG run of wire like that is next to impossible in a "reasonable" sized house, they don't take into account that the wiring is typically routed rather indirectly and can take some rather strange turns before getting to the final destination.

I hope to bring home one of my scopes sometime soon and do some measurements on one of my systems. I'm strictly talking in terms of the electricity going into the system and how it compares to what is at the breaker box. In the meantime, i'm still assuming that overkill is "better" and that "too much is not enough" in terms of heavy wiring and short runs working best. Sean
>

Sean.. with all your knowledge and equipment to the pursuit of audio nirvana why haven,t you switched to fuses.Fuses is a giant leap forward in this.
steve