ZYX RS20 vs Denon DL103


Hi,

I have currently using the DL103, would like to try out something, ZYX RS20 come to mind, I listen mostly Jazz & old pops LPs, would the ZYX better than teh DL103?

Any other suggestion? My budget is around US300-400.

thanks
koalaray

Showing 6 responses by flyingred

Better in what respect? What do you like/dislike about the DL-103?

The Denon, to my ears, is a punchy, dynamic cartridge, impaired by its conical stylus, so that unless matched perfectly with the step up/phono stage can give a slightly sibilant "bloom".

The Zyx carts do a very good job of suppressing surface noise and are very neutral in character, although the Airy 2 and below in the range can lack bass extension. My guess is that a Zyx would work nicely in and SME arm.

I spent a good few hours last weekend listening to a Denon 103R which sounded wonderful - certainly way better than it should considering its modest price direct from Eifl in Japan.
Hi Koalaray - lacking "body" is the one thing I wouldn't find wanting from the !03. Amandarae just beat me to the suggestion to try loading at 470 Ohms and take the VTF up to the recommended maximum of 2.5 grams.

The Zyx would give you more detail and resolution of soundstage but you would trade bass extension and, in comparison with the Denon, it is more neutral and analytical soudning.

My feeling is that a good cart should work on all kinds of music - otherwise it's limited or colored in some way!
Koalaray I've thought about this some more and am puzzled. I'm not familiar with your pre-amp but having searched online it should be doing a fine job for you so, other than trying the loading at 470 Ohms I would eliminate that as a source of the leannes.

As I said previously, I heard the 103R in a Schroeder Reference mounted on a Galibier Quattro Supreme and it sounded really awesome, so, in addition to cartridge loading, the possibilities are experimenting with lowering the VTA a little and if you can maybe try the Denon in a different arm on your table.

Two further thoughts, given the relatively high VTF and very low compliance, the Denon needs a good torquey motor driving the platter (time for a new belt?) You didn't mention your table so this might not be relevant. Finally, try experimenting with the mass/rigidity of the support that your table is standing on because this can make a huge difference.

So the bottom line is the Denon when matched with good synergy are capable of outstanding results - your challenge is to experiment systematically with all the other variables until you get more the sound you like.

I like the Grado carts (I have a Reference Gold myself) but because they track light and are higher compliance, it may not be a good match for your Grace (most of whose designs were mid to high effective mass for matching with moving coils). I personally find that it's hard to get the same sense of space and air with a moving magnet (yeah, ok, I know the Grados are moving iron).
Koalaray, try lowering the pivot point a little if you can - usually a cart sounds best with the arm slight headshell high.

If this still doesn't give you the 'body' you want then suspect the arm wiring and the table. There have been massive improvements in resonance isolation over the last 20-30 years and I'm finding that quite modestly priced carts, like your Denon, sound fantastic in good modern arms on the latest tables.

For a low-cost, fun alternative join the 'Building a high end table at Home Despot' action by re-plinthing an old Lenco.
There is no precise measurement for VTA/pivot height - it's done by ear. You lower the arm at the pivot in steps of 1 mm (approx) and listen to some music - full orchestral is good but I've also done it with Dire Straits. Keep going until you lose all the brightness and it sounds kind of horrible and mushy with indistinct bass. You know then that you've gone too far.

The trick then is to take the pivot up in small steps until the "soundstage snaps into focus." It's like focusing the lens of a camera or binoculars - you get the high frequencies back on violins, cymbals, vocals and you get the best imaging/placement in the soundstage. Go any higher and it gets over-bright, losing bass definition and lacks body!

Some purists would advocate that you re-set VTA for every LP you play. I'm usually happy with an optimized setting.

Anti-skate being off won't account for the lack of body. Not having anti-skate isn't the end of the world either - you might find that you can't cue a cut at the end of an album side and you might have to adjust the balance to compensate for one channel being louder than the other but if the spindle to pivot and overhang are spot-on you will be unlucky if you hear mistracking at the end of sides.

The usual advice is to set the anti-skate to half the VTF. I've experimented with mine on my Expressimo and it doesn't make a huge difference playing music, however I can reduce the distortion on the inner cut of HFS75.

The DL-103, with a conical stylus, will never be a great end of side tracker, however because the stylus is symmetrical it's much more tolerant of offset angle errors than an elyptical design.

Good luck I hope tweaking VTF gets you the sound you want.
Steve

My Schroeder Reference won't be here for a few months yet. I have ordered jacaranda which is 15gm effective mass. I heard the 103R in Thom Mackris's ebony Reference which is higher. I have used a 103 in an Expressimo Rega (12gm) and it works fine in that.
Hth