Yamaha GT-2000 from Japan or local TD-125?


(Cross posted)

Im wondering if anyone has ordered one off Ebay.  The Japanese websites seem pretty legit. I’m really sold on these, I’d say it’s my dream table for now.

 

Also have a chance to pick up a fully serviced Thorens TD-125 with an SME 3009 locally.  Arm was rewired, but have not been quoted a price since the seller wants to wait until the work is complete.  I’m guessing around the same as  GT2000, likely low to mid 1k’s

 

Any constructive thoughts are much appreciated.

brecchi

Showing 10 responses by pindac

I myself expressed a keen interest in the Japanese Market for DD TT's of which the GT 2000 was on my list, they were commonly seen and always from sale images looking in very nice condition.

I have duplicate and triplicate TT's of the models I did import , and no longer regret not importing the GT 2000 for Bearing Modifications, other Modifications, to be followed by non-modded / modded GT2000 Demo's.

I would recommend the 2000X but this will be towards $2.5K+. During my time of importing these were $800-$1500 purchases. 

As a design, it is safe to say the GT 2000 is the Godfather of the Kaneda designs seen today, where the Motor Drive/Stator is directly attached to the structure that is now a Plinth-Chassis. (Can't but help think Panzerholz will night and day transform for the better, the original Plinth - Chassis)

Also, if you become an owner, do know there are Phosphor Bronze Platters to be found for sale and a YOP-1 standalone PS and a Phosphor Bronze Vacuum Platter Mat YDS-1.   

If I did purchase, I do know as a sale item in the UK, I will have made substantial appreciation, if I could let go of being a hoarder and cleared out.

A friend has been a die hard user of BD TT's until a few years ago. They owned a substantially (Linn Spec' upgraded) Linn LP12 and a substantially modified TD 125.

One experience of a substantially modified (Bearing Assembly - Speed Stability) DD TT which was loaned, to be used on their system, was the influence instrumental in the individual replacing their BD TT's with a SP10 R.   

DD TT's do have their admirers and advocates.

 

 

@brecchi it looks like I have had a post corrupted, I will deal with the missing content on another visit.   

If you looking at the link, next to Currency you will see the recommended Tab, choose High to Low, you will see options that might just change your mind.

As I am very familiar with buying into Vintage DD TT's, the item I am going to show you in the link is one well worthwhile not overlooking, to find such parts for other TT;s has proved to be a very long search period and not all owned TT's have such a set of Spares in place for them, it would be a cannibalisation of a duplicate TT, which is the last thing wanted. Take Heed, A selection of readily available parts such as these may serve you very well further down the line.

The Parts referred to also enables the option for further down the line, to have a Bearing Overhaul carried out to be used as a comparison to the stock version, this need not be too expensive, when the correct support is found, but as a end result should quite easily show the design has the capability to immediately supersede what is already in use.

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/s1127489738/

I can't add the Vintage Knob Link for the GT 2000, there is useful info on there to help you see less obscure info.

Everything you are expressing a interest in will be found in the Link.

There is also a very fair priced at present Spare Plinth and Patter. 

I would not omit the idea of a Stacked Platter or adding a more modern material to be used with a original Plinth with the intention to be a improvement to the Structural Properties.   

 

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/item/search/Yamaha+GT+2000/Al_11_Yh_RaSuBpRmMrMv_N_N_0A00ja00_N/

Audiogon is becoming very difficult to work with, their is almost a censorship in place to helping others, when a contributor is attempting to add links.

Valuable posts for a OP with links attached are being thrown out regularly, maybe it is time to leave, as I am not in the forum to be controlled buy a Bot of some type.

I have just been rejected a post that clearly shows in the Link, that excessive sideways movement of the Platter Bearing Spindle will be discovered on the Yamaha GT 2000.

 The Photo Evidence also showed what I would refer to as a catastrophic failure of the Bearings Spindle Housing - Sump Cap Thrust Interface.

This Catastrophic Failure could be a design issue or possibly as a result of a substantial impact occurring from the Spindle Ball and Cap.

Eccentric Rotation is occurring when Spindle Sideways movement is evident and speed fluctuations will be discovered if a standalone strobe is utilised. 

The Thrust Interface Ball in this case seen was not scribe damaged, but this is most likely only because limited rotations have happened since the damage has been caused, the Sump Cap damage is seemingly able to enable a lubrication to leach out and become a quite dry environment that would be much better served if operating in a lubricated condition.

Caveat Emptor when buying any type of TT that is from a vintage period. 

Any owner of a Vintage period TT, who is not of the opinion their TT's Platter Spindle Bearing assembly needs to be investigated for condition are deluding themselves.  

I don't cite one case, I have had experience of more than one Platter Spindle Bearing with a very noticeable sideways movement.

In conjunction with my own experiences I personally know others who have encountered it as well.

My own interest has prompted me to look further and there are plenty of cases discussed on the internet.

What is not so common is the most recent methodology I have adopted to be the corrective measure.

The interest has lead onto other corrective measures to be developed and on the table to be put in place.

It is not always the sideways movement that is discovered, as stated on previous occasions. When taking the Bearing Assembly apart, the Ball at the Thrust Interface, usually discovered to be a loose fit, or interference fit in the base of the Platter Spindle are on occasion found to be damaged with a Spalling and even worse a Scribing on the Ball Surface.

Either one of these being present is an indicator for Metal Particulate being free to migrate and is now included in the surfaces where there are interfaces between Sacrificial and Non-Sacrificial Materials.

Such an environment has the capability to cause unwanted damage to the non-sacrificial material.

It is an even worse condition when the housing is arid dry in relation to lubricant, loose and migrating metal particulate damage in this type of environment will need substantial skills to correct the damages being witnessed.

Again, it is each to their own, if the want of an individual is to use a $2K to $5K Cart' on TT, knowing it has such a condition, or potentially has such a condition, then that for me is just fine.     

I am in no way accusing the Vintage TT of any drive type as being a bad buy.

I am suggesting that when one is considering purchasing one there operational issues that will be discovered, but not in all cases.

One of my SP10 MK II's needed quite a thorough investigation to discover the electronics fault, but I don't usually refer to this, as the condition it was bought in for a pittance, meant what was discovered wrong with it was a result, as the parts and repair once known was proven to be straight forward for the SP10 Guru who is a friend. 

The OP is looking to spend over a $1K, I think the risk is for much less monies a TT can Pbe bought that has very similar operational issues. For a little more monies a Batch of Spare Parts are available if Won.

I have gone to the extremes of duplicate and triplicate TT's to ensure the Spares are readily available if other means are not suitable to repair.  

The OP is looking for their Dream Table, well at present that is fantastical as all info is off pictures, ones opinions or a Article featuring Info about the TT.

'The proof of the Pudding is in the Eating' - Caveat Emptor

I am happy to inform the OP, there is very good things to come, 'but', a little more might be required to get to that place. 

It is very easy to work out shipping, there is a small tool bar on the left side of the screen with a middle of three tool prompts looking like a calculator, this is the tool to work out the Shipping, but is is weight dependent, as a Timber Plinth TT is much Less Weight than a Lead Plinth or Resin Plinth.

Also the GT 2000 can be found with a 6Kg Plinth or a 18Kg Plinth.

Adding the YOP-1 standalone PS and a Phosphor Bronze Vacuum Platter Mat YDS-1 (4.5Kg) and any spare parts found will most likely add up to 10-15Kg to the Package.    

I have bought TT's with all Plinth Types and the Chassis Motor Only, obviously the Chassis Motor only will be the cheapest to ship followed by the Timber Plinth and then what is the next in the weight class.

I have worked out a 100000 Yen purchase - Shipped to the US, as a 30Kg (66lbs) - 24" x 24" x 8" Package with the shipping costs listed below.

I always add 25% to a Purchase Price to cover any import levy's added in the UK, I don't know about Imports Levy's on US imports.

You can't see under the hood in a Photo, and are at the mercy of another's honesty, or lack of experience in a TT's maintenance and needs to function optimally.

One individuals works OK, as a description, is in comparison potentially the antithesis of another's, where it is stating the same device is needing serious surgery.  

  • FedEx Intl. Economy

    28,508 yen(≈ 156.80 GBP)

  • FedEx Intl. Priority

    32,666 yen(≈ 179.67 GBP)

  • ECMS

    33,854 yen(≈ 186.20 GBP)

  • DHL

    34,564 yen(≈ 190.11 GBP)

  • UPS

    52,511 yen(≈ 288.82 GBP)

  • AirMail

    66,700 yen(≈ 366.85 GBP)

  • EMS

    75,100 yen(≈ 413.05 GBP)

  • Surface

    20,900 yen(≈ 114.95 GBP)

p.s

     Be very clear to any individual shipping, that the Platter Must be removed and Packed as a Separate Part in the Transport Package.

Not many will remove the Tonearm, a cheaper option and safer option might be to buy a TT without a Tonearm, this will remove the risk of receiving a damaged TA, but also remove the option for a potential TA resale.

If one really wants the TA that is mounted, then again very clear requests must be made for how the Tonearm is to be protected for the shipping.

I have no recollection of receiving a TT with TA attached I have a interest in.