Do your own research. Try to find every place in your area where music is actually being played and go listen. Bars, parks, churches, nightclubs, community centers, concert halls, college campuses, don't stop there! One of the towns near us has free concerts inside City Hall in the winter & on the lawn outside in the summer. There are summer concerts on an island, a ferry ride away.
My experience is that it is still all there. Not just music that charms, but music that entrances, music that makes you laugh, music that makes you cry, music that overwhelms, music that changes your life...