You know I didn't think about a disco ball! As an aside part of the sound of an 845 is the turns ratio of the trans: eight to one I think.
Why & How to Make the 845 Power Tube of Choice?
I currently have an 845 based custom system. My CD player has enough output to allow you to skip an expensive active pre-amp. If you have vinyl, I would go with a dedicated phono pre.
After spending a fortune to see if we could buy and modify a solid state based system that could equal tubes; We found several Nelson Pass designs that might satisfy someone like my friend who likes the convenience of solid state.
I am now a die hard tubee.
My current glass: 6SU7 X 2, 6SN7 X 2, 845 X 2.
But you need to go NOS except for the Chinese 845 metal plates. I prefer United Electronics, but a pair just traded on E-bay for $2,100.
Why 845s? They simple have the best combination of power, detail, and transparency.
I have my 845s putting out about 20 watts per channel, which more than adequately drive my 86db 4-ways using only first order cross-overs, but the wire and caps that I use are in the: If you have to ask; how much? you probably can't afford them category.
Simply put: He who dies with the most Euro Oil caps wins!
(Reference Audio Mods supplied mine).
The incredible wire: Features a flat 4-nines silver ribbon with two different natural silk dielectrics. The first embedded with oil injected at very high PSI levels. The second natural silk dielectric is embedded with a chemical designed to repel moisture.
My kinky interconnects use the same wire for the positive, but use a 6-nines stranded copper to the ground.
YOU MUST BUT EACH WIRE IN A SEPARATE SLEEVE. They should only meet at the RCA plugs. I admit it sounds weird, but just start moving the sleeves together and you will see how much signal you lose.
As for RCA jacks and plugs: The ones that look like crap and cost a fortune work best.
WARNING: I once had a custom CD player that was powered by about 300 pounds of boat batteries. The divorce was incredibly expensive, so I decided to have it catered. I had a catered wedding and this was a much happier occasion.
TWEAK and ROLL!
After spending a fortune to see if we could buy and modify a solid state based system that could equal tubes; We found several Nelson Pass designs that might satisfy someone like my friend who likes the convenience of solid state.
I am now a die hard tubee.
My current glass: 6SU7 X 2, 6SN7 X 2, 845 X 2.
But you need to go NOS except for the Chinese 845 metal plates. I prefer United Electronics, but a pair just traded on E-bay for $2,100.
Why 845s? They simple have the best combination of power, detail, and transparency.
I have my 845s putting out about 20 watts per channel, which more than adequately drive my 86db 4-ways using only first order cross-overs, but the wire and caps that I use are in the: If you have to ask; how much? you probably can't afford them category.
Simply put: He who dies with the most Euro Oil caps wins!
(Reference Audio Mods supplied mine).
The incredible wire: Features a flat 4-nines silver ribbon with two different natural silk dielectrics. The first embedded with oil injected at very high PSI levels. The second natural silk dielectric is embedded with a chemical designed to repel moisture.
My kinky interconnects use the same wire for the positive, but use a 6-nines stranded copper to the ground.
YOU MUST BUT EACH WIRE IN A SEPARATE SLEEVE. They should only meet at the RCA plugs. I admit it sounds weird, but just start moving the sleeves together and you will see how much signal you lose.
As for RCA jacks and plugs: The ones that look like crap and cost a fortune work best.
WARNING: I once had a custom CD player that was powered by about 300 pounds of boat batteries. The divorce was incredibly expensive, so I decided to have it catered. I had a catered wedding and this was a much happier occasion.
TWEAK and ROLL!