Why 24/7 warm-up period on amps?


The 24/7 warm-up period on amps seems excessively unsupported. Yes, an amplifier (pre-amp or power amp) will change it's circuit factors as the init heats up since the resistive and capacitive values stabilize...but for months on end? Do we still have a "warm" heart for tubes, that do indeed need to get "hot" to work right?

A capacitor charges up based on it's RC time constant, which is in the SECONDS range, not days. OK, if you add the heat sink area so the heat going out is stabilized I can see maybe an hour or so. My DNA-225 gets HOT in thirty minutes, at which point it's steady state. That even assumes it doesn't have temperature correction circuits to make it more stable, and less subject to change over time.

Break-in periods are hard to judge what people think is happening. Circuit P/N junction temps get hot pretty fast. A mechanical device like a speaker or phono cartridge, sure, they will work-in just like a well used rubber band. But silicone? Factory burn-in is designed to find weak components that degrade outside of SOP ranges, not to "center" their attributes in a normal stable circuit. Did someone forget to add enough heat sink compound to a PNP or NPN transistor, for instance?

Assumming break-in is real, not to be confused with the warm-up period, once it's done it's done. After that it would be warm-up only time. And, warm-up is a simple thermodynamic process. It only takes so long to warm-up and it isn't "days" on end. Maybe hours...if even. Once things are to temp the circuit constants are set. What else is changing? A heat sink is designed to warm-up and hold a delta temperature where the measured performnace is flat. A small amp (pre-amp gain stage) has smaller heat sinks for this reason. Heat and resistance are related, so you have to pick a temp and hold it. You design to THAT attrubute on the component.

Wire conditioning in the amp? ( go here - http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/mjramp/golopid/grain.html) As well as several other sites and textbooks.

The DC path is just that, DC. The magic is the purity of the DC, not the wire moving it around. You either have the right voltage and current capability (wire size)or you don't. Once the amp is on, the wires capacitance hardly matters. PP, PE or Teflon dielectrics only ionizes-tree and fail at break down voltages around impurities, not below that. You do not want to ever ionize the insulation in normal practice.

AC is an interesting issue. The AC complex signal is ALTERNATING differently at each and every frequency point, so the magnetic and electric fileds keep switching with respect to frequency. So the dielectric can not have polarity, or current "direction". The dielectric will not "align" to anything.

Grain structure in copper does not change unless you melt it. It's set when the rod is made. Annealing just resets elongation by improving homogeneous grain alignment, not the grain boundary characteristics since wire is resitive annealed at well below the temp that would fully reform the grain boundary around impurities in the copper. Oh, all modern 9/16" rod copper is made in induction ovens and is essentially OFC grade. All wire is drawn from that rod. Modern copper is also "high conductivity". Again, these terms are throw backs to days gone by with coke furnaces and open air annealing to critical temps where impurities could be picked up, changing the grain boundaries around impurities.

I also notice the people seem to tout TEFLON over Polypropylene or polyethylene dielectrics. Teflon costs more, it is higher temperature capable to 150C-200C (like 80C on polyethylene isn't enough in electronics) but Teflon has a worse dissipation factor and loss tangent. Using Teflon has a more NEGATIVE influence on electricals than olefins. Teflon's velocity of propogation at RF frequencies way above 1MHz is 70% verses 66% for solid olefin dielectrics. But that is at RF. And, you can nitrogen foam either to negate that advantage of Teflon at RF, but NOT Teflon's high price, loss tangent or dissipation factor. Capacitance adjusted Teflon is a poor choice. So the important factors are capacitance, dissipation factor and loss tangent. We can easily fix the velocity of propagation. PE and PP is superior across the board and cheaper (that's probably the problem!).

Good circuits are good circuits. Could you even make a circuit that had electricals parameters that were undefined till it ran, "forever"? Nope, can't be done. Design would then be a game of chance. I don't think that it is. Stabilized junction temps are used to set electrical componenet attributes with respect to temperature. You can design heat sink characteristics to place "hot" components where thet need to be temp wise to meet a circuit requirement. A poorly designed amp that allows thermal run-away under load isn't appropriate and isn't made...for long. There is indeed a circuit junction temp that rather quickly defines the measurable performance of the circuit, and a STABLE delta attribute approximation(s) when a circuit is designed. You know going in what they will be in operation steady state.

So, I hear my speakers and phone stage "break-in. And they don't go backwards once thet are broken-in. They can, in fact, get worse and simply break-down! But my amp sounds fine in short order. The circuit reaches a thermodynamic steady state and we're off to the races. I just can't see a circuit that needs 24/7 "on" period to stabilize...unless it just isn't stable. To me that's a poor design, and one subject to possibly serious load induced instability when the circuit falls outside of the stable design region(s).

I'd sure like to see MEASURED attributes that support 24 /7 warm-ups on sound. I have yet to see any measured data to support this. Show me components used in amps that take MONTHS to reach stady values. I have read PLENTY to support first to third approximation(s) on amplifier circuits ambient thermal temperature stability points. Many circuits are designed to run "cold" and have inverse circuit systems to keep changes due to temp deltas away. This way, you have a more stable circuit at all times. The opposite designis technically UNSTABLE till it gets to temp. This also limits what you can do as it can't blow-up when it is cold BEFORE it gets hot and stable. So the circuit is a compromise.

So just what are the resistive, inductive and capacitive break-in periods on quality components used in a circuit? In God we trust, all else bring data.- unknown
rower30

Showing 6 responses by atmasphere

Rower30, Take a look at my comments about power cords 1/2 way back in this thread.

Your power conditioning can be the best in the world but if there is significant voltage drop in the power cord a problem is being introduced that does not have to be there. I would expect romex to work quite well but it is not legal to use as a power cord- such use is dangerous.
I'd like to do a blind test on power cords, too. Power goes all over the county on high voltage lines, step it down at ana xformer, goes through the house in 12-14 AWG ROMEX, through a gazillion dollar power cord that magically realigns the power (how it ever "knows" what it "was" when it left the plant I'll never know) and THEN goes into a CRAPPY IEC outlet, and THEN into the simple wires from the IEC outlet inside the amp to the power DC supply circuit block. Any decent DC block will turn all the AC to pure ripple free DC. If it doesn't, no power cord is going to change that.

Since this comes from the OP, I will assume its fair game.

The reason power cords make a difference despite the limitations described in this statement has to do with voltage drop in the power cord. It also has to do with how DC power supplies work.

These effects can be quite measurable!! For example, I have seen a 3 volt drop across a 6 foot power cord cost a tube amp of about 35% of its total output power. If you want a reason to look for, that one is pretty basic!

But there is more. Most DC power supplies have a power transformer, a set of rectifiers and a bank of filter capacitors. The circuit draws its power from the filter caps, which are replenished by the transformer and rectifiers. Now its a simple fact that the filter caps are not seriously drained in between cycles, else the amplifier will not work very well. But the rectifiers will only turn on at a certain time- whenever the voltage from the transformers is higher than that of the filter caps.

This only happens at the peaks of the incoming AC power. IOW, the power supply is only doing its work in very short bursts of energy. Now in normal operation what this means is that the diodes are doing some fairly high frequency service; they may only be on for a few milliseconds per cycle. This is called commutation- the turning on and off of the rectifiers, and the current that might occur at these times can be quite prodigious depending on the circuitry of the audio device.

Meanwhile the power cord may be doing double duty, especially if the amplifier has a filament circuit.

Consequently you have two effects: voltage drop at 60Hz, and the current ability at a fairly high frequency. The greater the demand on the cord the greater the likelihood that its effects will be audible on this basis; OTOH the lower the current and the more regulation employed by the audio device the less audible it might be.

The bottom line though is you do not have to look any further then these two phenomena to find something that is not only measurable but also audible and independent of anything upstream of the cord.

With regards to warmup, I remember a Sanyo amp from the mid 1980s that had a passive freon heatsink. It sounded best cold (MOSFET output section)- as soon as it warmed up, the bass was gone. A fan on the heatsink really helped but it was at its best if you kept the amp outside during the winter. I do most of my work with tubes though, and these days it seems that if the amp/preamp needs more than about 2 hours to get to where its going to, it may well need new filter caps or the like. We have measured voltage differences between power supplies that are not broken in as opposed to those that are. This seems to have mostly to do with the filter caps forming up. While most of that happens fairly quickly, a cap might take a few weeks to really reach full efficiency, depending on how much use it gets during that time. The explanation we got from an engineer at Cornell Dublier was that there is a certain amount of water molecules that has to be chased out of the electrolyte by the operation of the cap. Sometimes that can take a while.
Paperw8, the amp I mentioned in my example draws 500W from the wall at full power.

If you dig around on this forum, you will find that the idea that the stereo sounds better late at night is a fairly common experience. IOW you are right that other loads on the AC line do indeed affect the sound of many stereos.

Kijanki is correct in his comments about the double duty I mentioned: the cord has to manage to supply power for the filament circuit of the amp as well as its DC supplies. He is incorrect on the 90% figure we see in his previous post however. But it is still a lot of current- about 45% of the total draw. The high frequency content, despite being once per 60Hz cycle, comes from the fact that the pulse is narrow and square. Anyway you look at it that requires some bandwidth to not current limit.

Finally, with regard to the posts you are trading with Al, if you have ever heard of a first-order crossover in a speaker, that is a filter that is as simple as they get. A first-order crossover is of course 6db/octave. I don't think I have ever heard of a 3db/octave filter, but such a filter would actually need *more* parts to make it happen.

If you want a simple rule of thumb, double a voltage, that's a 6db increase. Double the power, that's a 3 db increase. The 3db figure of power doubling is why small, incremental increases in amplifier power have been known in the past as 'gold plated decibels'. This term has also been used in the radio broadcast industry.
No, a power supply cord is in SERIES with the ENTIRE ROMEX lead and all the way back to the power station. An insignificant voltage drop and even less so if the lead is equal to the ROMEX in AC resistance. So if you use a 12AWG cord you're NOT going to see appreciable voltage drop across the cord.

Its probably more accurate to say the power cord is in series with the house wiring and the transformer that feeds it.

However I am not theorizing here at all- the measurement I mentioned was quite real. To compensate for the power cord losses, I used a variac and measured the AC voltage drop across the cord, IOW at the output of the variac and the AC input of the amp itself.

Now I am not saying the the other wiring, in the house and outside on the line does not have an effect. But for this measurement they remained a constant.

A 12 gauge cord will have less voltage drop- but part of the issue are the connections at either end of the cord. If they are heating up it does not matter what the gauge of the cord is!
ROMEX is 100% soft annealed copper, it is simply the AWG size that limits flex.

Its solid wire. Even if it were 20 gauge it can still break...

You can run equivalent AWG stranded copper cords straight from the box (hard-wire, no connectors)to your device. AC is 60 cycle, it only knows resistance (AWG size).

Don't let the fire marshal see that installation...
Rower30, I do not blame you for taking that position, and no doubt this is why there are a number of 'HiFi' fuse products now available.

However you can also consider the fuse to be a common denominator in the AC chain, in that you might use the same fuse while auditioning different power cords, and still be able to hear differences between the power cords.

IME, the better the AC wall wiring is (including the outlets), the easier it is to hear the effect of the power cord. That might seem counter-intuitive, but the the wall wiring is in bad shape and has losses of its own that will see the equipment having a lower AC voltage delivered.