Dear Comrade,
As always, your brilliance just baffles me. I'm speechless!
BTW: Sorry Flieb, my typing is not the greatest. I've even misspelled my own name once.
Regards, Dno (grin) |
Lew, If you can wait a day or two I can email you enlargements of the legitimate (dark blue) PC550ML beryllium stylus that I recently acquired with a 550 body. |
I have no idea why my comrade Don addresses Fleib as 'Flieb' but I have some idea about how objects are determinated . There are two ways: 1. an object satisfying an property in Tarsky's conception of thruth by satisfaction conditions. Or 2. an object being determinated by a property.
I think that we usually think with the second mentioned criterion. So, dear comrade Don, if the object of your investigation has the property of beryllium you will know the answer for your question(grin).
Regards, |
Flieb,
My comments doesn't have anything to do with AT in particular, just beryllium cantilevers in general. All my re tipper beryllium's are rod. I do know that there are tube beryllium cantilevers. I just want to know if there is a tell tale sign (No, not "here's your sign"!), but a way to tell at first glance, yep, that's beryllium!
Regards, Don |
I've got a hand-held magnifier that should do the trick, maybe even without opening the clear plastic box. Anyway, there is low probability that I lucked out here. Just wishful thinking.
My understanding is that LP Gear is taking these items back under "return authorization". I intend to go that route. |
Griff, AFAIK, AT only made a couple exotic tube cantilevers. What models? Compare them to a tapered alum w/nude stylus like your 440MLa. Regards, |
Hi Nikola, You're a lawyer? Obviously not a civil lawyer, LOL. Maybe things are different in Europe, especially eastern Europe, but this is the USA. All one has to do is contact their credit card company and cancel the charge. Opened box or not, is irrelevant. I doubt if the seller will dispute the claim. This is a fraudulent or misidentified item. They already acknowledged as much, and wouldn't have a leg (or cantilever) to stand on, so to speak.
Beryllium is only toxic when being manufactured. If you breath in the dust or ingest small particles it's toxic. Otherwise it's safe. They still make tweeter diaphragms out of beryllium. When you do very exacting close work or party too much it's normal to start seeing double, get headaches and nausea, and you skin turns various shades of red and green. Thus it is called the Xmasexcess syndrome. Take a day off and it goes away. When I broke the 152MLP the cantilever went flying and landed in my forearm which bled a little. Nothing happened - no symptoms of anything. I've recently started st st stuttering and images appear upside down. I wonder if they could be related? Regards,
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I have several beryllium cantilevers. Most are solid rod type. I also have a couple (purported to be beryllium), that are tapered tube. Looking at the cantilever from the end, it appears to be a hollow square. Actually more rectangular than square, but you get the idea. Any confirmation of this design as to whether it would confirm a "beryllium" tube?
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Dear Lew, Don't open the box. It is the Pandora kind. To know what is inside one need to open the box but than every seller will tell you: ''sorry we don't accept used items.'' Besides this beryllium stuff is toxic. Only Fleib can be attracted by such stuff because he thinks they make the best cantilevers. |
Lew, Some magnification would help. All you really need to tell if it's alum or beryl - bonded or nude, is handheld 30 to 60X.
Look at the end of the cantilever and see if it's folded over like the pics on Asylum - that's alum. Bonded will have a little platform under the round shank needle. That platform will go through the cantilever and look like a nail head on the other side. Mine is covered over with some black stuff. A square shank nudie is glued and doesn't go through a beryl cantilever. Most of the ML are really small, but that should be enough magnification to tell if it's bonded or not. If you have enough magnification to see a nude sq shank, it's beautiful like a pin-up girl.
Those photos on Asylum were less than 100X. You can use a low power biological scope, but you have to block the hole under the slide, light it from above, and have enough height with the stage to accommodate the stylus. Regards, |
Assume I open the box. How will I know I am looking at beryllium? |
Flieb,
Quote: "That should read, I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium/ML ever made."
I'm thinking a transplant might be in order here!
Regards, Don |
Dear Fleib: Yes, I will return that 550ML fake. Pity that a " reputable " seller as LPGear marketed this kind of fake items. We have to be more careful with.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Some time ago when 'we' discovered the Italian source for those Acutex (420, 415, etc.) carts we referred to the source as 'pizza seller'. I discovered a new one. His cart is hidden, uh, behind the name 'Azzurra'. We needed some time to discovere that Astatic and Glanz are made by Mitachi corp. and so is the 'Azzurra' which was ordered by Glanz. The Azzurra has the same 'generator' as the Glanz 31(l) which is 'the same' as the Astatic MF 200. That is to say 'the same' according to Vetterone (Dobbins) and Nandric (Glanz thread). The difference is the stylus. Azzurra has a conical one. However Astatic MF 300 stylus is still available (ebay.com)so the potential buyer can 'compose' his own Astatic MF 300 cart. The 'pizza address': esotar@gmail.com. To get a preferred treatment reference to Nikola will do as introduction.
Regards, |
Edit: That should read, I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium/ML ever made. |
Lew, I think you should open it and determine if it is, in fact an original. This should have no affect on return-ability, as long as it's not damaged. Raul tried his and can now return it if he desires.
If it is a beryllium/ML, it is worth more than $200 IMO. Only a few ATs had such a stylus and they are mostly unavailable and fit 100 series. I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium ever made. If you have a PC220 or 440 body results might be better than good. Regards, |
Thanks, Audpulse. Fleib, I think, already told us as much. I was just wondering whether LP Gear may have had a mixed batch, some of which were genuine 550ML and some like the ones you and I and others were talking about. Mine is definitely a darker blue color compared to the photo posted here earlier. |
Lewn, return the 550ML if it is still possible to get your money back. With the picture showed on the net, I showed it to two respectful re-tippers and they both agreed that there is nothing exotic about it; that it is bonded, elliptical tip and aluminum cantilever. |
Dear Lewm: Not exactly, we don't used in the phonolinepreamp. What I posted is that those MAT02 comes in my ML 20.6 monoblocks by design.
Regrads and enjoy the music, R. |
Nandric, they did originally come with their own subwoofers. But those would now be 30 years old, and they sucked in the first place, according to those who have heard them. Moreover, there is a bass amplifier built onto the chassis of the direct-drive tube amps; it does not elicit admiration for quality of its construction, either. I don't have the original subs and won't use the built-in woofer amplifiers. I don't know what you mean by "Ikea" subs. I built those things out of high-density fiberboard (HDF) that is one-inch thick, and then they were covered with formica. (This is 1970s technology, I admit, but not an IKEA kit, either.) I need some modern "stuffing" for my TLs, however. If I fall in love with the speakers, I will get better subwoofers. |
Dear Lew, Glad to hear that those Beveridge 2SWs are at last fixed. I thought that those have their own bass drivers? To be honest I have not much trust in your own 'Ikea' subs. You should know that those Beveridge 'stats' are very popular in Germany. Such that there are repair shops for them. So you can eventualy get rich if their transport to Germany is cheap. I hope I will be the first one to hear how they compare with the SL 840 PXs.
Regards, |
Audio-Technica AT155LC on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAPSULA-PARA-PLATO-AUDIO-TECHNICA-AT155LC-/261219874267?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item3cd1eaf5db I won´t bid on it so... Good luck |
Fleib, (Yes, my main speakers are SL 845PXs with drastic mods to the input stage of the spkrs.) As Nandric is fond of reminding me, I also have a pair of Beveridge 2SWs in my basement. For 6 months Bill Thalmann has been working on their direct-drive amplifiers. (Well, he is not doing six months worth of work; for 5 months they just sat in his shop. The poor man is overwhelmed with work fixing all the broken direct-drive turntables in the US.) Anyway, Bill will probably be finished with the Bev amplifiers this week, and I look forward to hearing the speakers, finally. I have a pair of transmission line woofers that I built myself maybe 40 years ago, using the old KEF B139 woofer, and I plan to take those out of mothballs to provide bass for the Beveridges. Maybe I am a pessimist, but I predict I will find out there is something amiss with the Beveridge ESL panels and then need to fix THAT before I really get to know what they can do, but the jury is out.
The MAT02 takes the worry out of any noise that might be created using an all-tube phono stage with LOMC cartridges (a lot of which gets cancelled anyway in balanced mode). I can't prove it to you, unless you come over to listen, but the phono is DEAD quiet with ANY cartridge you care to throw at it. The irony is that now I am enamored of these much higher output cartridges, I have been using an SE tube phono stage to amplify their output, because the MP1 has too much gain for them. The outboard phono feeds the MP1 linestage section for MMs and MIs. So, in that case I am only balanced from the linestage on to the speakers. By the way, Raul told me that he uses the very same MAT02 at the input to the phono in his phonolinepreamp. In my case, it is the bottom half of a hybrid cascode, using a tube at the top. The plate voltage matching is within 1%.
I still have the 550ML stylus we all bought from LP Gear. I have not opened the box and was planning to return it. But I looked at it yesterday (the box is transparent plastic), and the color of mine is a deeper, darker blue than is the one that was photographed and shown here to be carrying an alu cantilever and probably elliptical or spherical stylus. Then Dave bought the "real" 550ML and showed us that the color of the stylus assembly is a darker blue than is the bogus one. Could it be that just by luck, I got a real 550ML stylus assembly? I wish I could figure it out without opening the box. Did anyone else get something different from the one that was "exposed" here on the thread as not original? |
Hi Raul,
I'm not certain if my last post on the Essential review page might help with your anger or understanding:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rprea&1187459855&openusid&zzDgob&4&&
As always.. |
Hi Raul,
I see that you have left me unable to respond or help you to answer your series of accusations. I will therefore try to get the key party to respond to you directly concerning the issues that you suggest I have instigated. Hopefully, that will put your mind in a better place.
I will wait a couple of days in case you would rather that I did not attempt to bring the truth to light. If you are fine with me trying to assist in this way, then there is no need to respond and I will post on Wednesday.
You have left me truly bewildered.
As always... |
Lew, That's interesting about Kelly's phono. I wonder how many others have that imbalance compensation circuit, zero, maybe one or two? How about yours?
You read into my argument? You missed the point. It's about circuit topology and uneven exposure to heat, especially with tubes. Things like resistors and capacitors change value with temp. Admittedly, much of my objection is theoretical, but why make things overly complicated? Many of the tube units have SUTs and I don't like them either.
Now I think tubes are obsolete? You didn't finish reading my post. I have a tube amp (among others). I don't think tubes are a particularly good idea on phono, so sue me. Maybe you forgot, I'm the guy who had direct drive OTL electrostat tube amps - big high voltage cap tubes. The amps put out 50KV with banks of storage caps, another Dan Fanny creation. Your running Soundlab? Bet it sounds great. Regards, |
Dear Fleib, I now recall that Kelly's issue with tubes was this very one of the problem of matching them in a balanced circuit. Mark went on to design and implement a balanced circuit wherein the imbalance is automatically compensated for. His own home-brew phono stage is thus balanced and uses tubes for gain. So, you cannot use that to support your argument.
Of course, if the parts on one half of the circuit are grossly defective or poorly matched, which is kind of what I read into your bit about "sweaty hands", then a balanced circuit will not work optimally well. Nor will an SE circuit. Thus I label your argument not relevant. Also, if you really think that tubes are obsolete in audio, we don't have much to talk about, because we are too far apart in our mindsets. Having said that, I should also admit that in my own balanced phono stage, I implemented an MAT02 bipolar transistor at the input. This device has two sections that are matched within a gnat's toukus. Everything else downstream from the MAT02, right up to the speakers, is tubes in full balanced mode. No phase-splitting is ever done. You would like the sound, I think. It would be great if any of us could ever get to hear the others' systems. No weapons allowed. |
Hi Lew, On the face of it you make a good case, but IMO you're wrong. You say, **As you note, the positive and negative halves of the signal are treated separately. Thus, so far as the full sine wave or complex wave form that is music is concerned, it has not been "processed" by twice as many parts.** This is completely incorrect, or nearly so.
In your analogy the 10 coffee beans are split in 2 and taken to the kitchen by separate doors. Maybe each bean goes through only one door, but do they arrive at the same instant? You hold the beans loosely in your hand and I hold them tightly in my sweaty grip. Same temp?
The analogy depends how you look at it, your 10 coffee beans, single ended are only 5. Seems to me there's a difference between regulating the (-) side of the signal, and amplifying it with duplicate parts.
A consumer balanced phono stage tends to be very expensive and made with the "best" parts etc. That's why it's good IMO and not because it's balanced. Tubes are a special case because they're noisy and inappropriate for phono amplification now that there are superior devices for that. You get common mode noise rejection where it's not needed, at the input using a short cable. That is noise common to both sides. Tell me this, what happens to things that are not common to both sides, differences?
I didn't have the pleasure of reading Mark Kelly's post. He probably shed more light on this subject than I. Please don't think I'm anti tubes, I have a wonderful custom tube amp built by Dan Fanny. But when it comes to phono..... Regards,
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Lewm,
Very well put. Two thumbs up for your synopsis.
Regards, Don |
Dear Fleib, Your argument about duplication of parts sounds exactly like one that I heard several years ago from someone who is associated with Mapleshade Audio. That was their argument against balanced anything. With all due respect, I guess this is a matter of seeing a glass as half empty or half full. As I see it, there is no doubt that a balanced circuit requires twice as many parts as does an SE circuit. However, the signal per se does NOT travel through twice as many parts as does the signal traversing an SE circuit. As you note, the positive and negative halves of the signal are treated separately. Thus, so far as the full sine wave or complex wave form that is music is concerned, it has not been "processed" by twice as many parts.
One analogy I came up with is: suppose we have 10 coffee beans. You and I, as positive and negative halves of a balanced circuit, have been given the job of taking them from the dining room into the kitchen. I keep 5 and give you 5. But there are two doorways into the kitchen; you use one, and I use the other. Assume the 10 coffee beans are an audio signal. Now, once those 10 beans are in the kitchen, would you say that each element of the signal has gone through two doorways? No, the 10 beans each saw one doorway. Same as if we both used the same (SE) doorway.
The net effect of a balanced pathway in terms of parts is no different from an SE one, so far as parts can introduce nonlinearity and distortion. This is always assuming that capacitors and resistors are as well matched as possible. Further, in an amplifier, treating the signal in balanced mode from input through to the typical P-P output stage has the enormous advantage that no phase-splitting is needed. Surely you would agree that phase-splitting, necessary to feed a P-P output stage in any kind of amplifier, is almost always a flawed process.
But this does not answer my question to you, which was how can slight mis-matching of the gain elements in a balanced circuit, which is always there with tubes, I admit, result in fidelity that is "worse" (your word) than SE? You may be correct; I think I read such an argument put forward by Mark Kelly on AA. Iv'e never heard a problem even using imperfectly balanced tube gear. I do agree that CMR is reduced from ideal when gain is mismatched for each half. |
Thanks Fleib, Actually Vidmantas the owner/designer by the Reed is a good friend of my but I somehow ovelooked him by my quest. I made many balanced IC's and just finished my own phono-cable. But I never used balanced phono-cables despite the fact that I own the Basis Exclusive pre.
Regards, |
Nandric, Check with the manufacturer for correct configuration. Apparently the ground can be strapped internally to the tonearm ground post. The standard record player pinout is L = #3, R = #5, and #2 (center) is usually ground. But the manufacturer can wire it however they want and it seems to vary.
http://pinouts.ru/Home/DinAudio_pinout.shtml
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/DIN_Audio
Regards, |
Hxtl, Dobar dan, The guy 'with' the body or, better, the body is not sufficiently described. Which body? I.e. which Astatic or Glanz model? I am only sure about the first 3 mentioned as the 'top of the line'. You should use at least MF 300 or Glanz 31 for your MF 300 stylus.
Regarding the balanced phono-cable. I mentioned to have never seen such a cable with a separate ground wire.That is to say the wire connected with the pre-ground. If nobody else have seen one than where in the XLR connectors is the Din5 'ground' connected? If 'wherever' than both XLR should have a 'common ground' (aka the same Din 5 ground connector). |
Dobar dan, Nandric.. I will keep in touch. I found a guy on ebay with a body, waiting to hear back. Newest problem: I introduced a TVC preamp into my system, and now my phonostage (Bottlehead Eros) is noisy... the preamp somehow brings the hum in the stage to the forefront. It is too much. I'm considering going with a SS or battery powered Phonostage, I'm just going nuts trying to get back to that magic I had with the rebodied, ss ruby denon 103r with cinemag SUT... the grace f9 was very close. |
Dear Dlcockrum: The configration I use fron DIN Pin 5 to XLR is ( this is the way are the connectiion in the XLR connector. ):
Pin 2 +signal and Pin 3 -signal ( on XLR ), Pin 1 not connected and the cable shield connected to the XLR ground connector. Obviously the Din Pin 5 ground wire to the phono stage ground connector.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
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Lew, Re: Balanced. The duplication of parts in each channel of the preamp serves to amplify the positive and negative sides of the same waveform. Not talking about common mode rejection, what about those different sides of the same signal?
IMO when it comes to additional parts, degradations, and colorations, less is more. There's no such thing as a good part. Some suck less than others. Regards, |
Hi Harv, You can use the Astatic MF 300 stylus also with the Glanz series: 71,51, 31, and probable 20. I expect to receive from Italy one of the Glanz carts made in honor of some Italian sailing ship 'Azzurra' . The seller is a dealer in Italy and has more samples for sell. I will need about 10 days to test the cart. Then I hope to know if this cart has any merit or ,at least, if it has the same 'generator' as the mentioned 71,51 or 31 models. If you still have not find the right 'body' till than you can contact me. The cart is 50 euro + postage.
Regards, |
Nandric, You could split the ground wire after the tonearm connector. Regards, |
Hi everyone! I got sidetracked by the 'Tapes project' and the R2R 'world' Then got caught up in the 'new' cheap and cheerful 'giant killer' DACs So my TT has been gathering dust as of late. Jumping back in with both feet as is my custom, I purchased a Decca Maroon, on a friends insistence that it would synergize with my Lenco, but also, as ever I've been looking into this thread for 'flavor of the month' I missed out on the astatic mf 200 on eBay, but I did get an Acutex M310iiiE, so I now have the Azden ymp 50e, the Acutex, the Decca, and other mc FR 2, and Clearaudio Maestro. The MC are being sent for retipping. The Decca lasted 5 days and the Acutex has replaced the Azden for now. I am enjoying it but not immensely so. Not yet broken in of course, but it is apparent that it delivers more detail than the Decca, and more air, fuller bass, in short, it handily outperforms the Decca in my rig. Still I need to get a 'special' MM and see what the fuss is. So I jumped on the cheap NIB Astatic MF 300 stylus on eBay and I course I cannot find the cartridge body anywhere. Any hints as to where I can find one would be greatly appreciated! Cheers Harv |
Dear Fleib, I am certain that the AT 20Sl cantilever is 'tapered' and probable aluminum alloy of some kind. But the price you mentioned is not what I would call a 'cheap donor'. Regarding the balanced phono-cable there is a problem by your assumption. The Din 5 'ground' need to be split in two separate wire to be connected to both XLR pin # 1 connectors.It is not easy to put just one wire in those Din 5 connectors. BTW for those who are sufficiently brave to try to solder the Din 5 connector my advice is to buy first headshell 'tags' or 'çlips'. Then solder the cable wire on one side of the 'tag' and then push the other side on those tiny Din 5 connectors. Then solder them together. Those Din 5 connectors are the same dimension as the carts connectors. But this job is really unpleasant to do.
Regards, |
Nikola, I figured that the orig cantilever is aluminum (tapered?) or LpGear would say so and charge more for beryllium. Since the price is already $200, who knows? The 20SS stylus is available at Stereoneedles for the same money.
I don't run balanced phono but I believe the tonearm ground should be hooked to the ground pin (#1) on the DIN plug on each channel. Regards, |
Dear Henry, I will keep you informed privately. Not too many here would be interested. I won the thing (Victor QL10) on eBay. The seller says it spins too fast and cannot be made to spin at 33 using the adjuster. After exchanging messages with him, I ascertained that he was feeding it 120V/60Hz, instead of 100V/60Hz. I am first of all keeping my fingers crossed that when I plug it in to the correct voltage using a step-down transformer, it will actually be OK. (Of course, it's equally likely that he fried something irreparably.) I will also for sure change out all the electrolytic capacitors, regardless. Seems he bought it at an estate sale, has no idea about audio or record players. However, he was very compliant and cooperative when I gave him specific instructions how to pack it for shipment. It will come to me in 3 separate boxes. It's on the way now. What I always liked about the TT101 is the coreless motor. My experience with the L07D convinces me there is something special about turntables that use coreless motors.
Good thing is that the entire service manual is available on Vinyl Engine, all 56 pages. I printed it out and will have it available for Bill, should it come to that. Bill probably would not touch it without the manual. I increased my bid, once I found out that I could get the manual in English. (I had visions of trying to convince my son to translate it from Japanese, not an easy task.) |
Dear Fleib, I forget to ask for myself. I was realy stunned with the results achived with the AT 12s stylus as a donor for my TK 7 Su. If Henry could hear the result I am sure he would gladly exchang one of his 155 CL for my 12 S stylus. Now in my perception the donor should be of less value than the patient. I am talking about inanimat objects so please no moral objections. 'Especialy' not from some Mexican who addresses us as 'my friends' but also squeal many of us by the moderator. I would prefer to be excepted by his addresses. Say: 'dear friends, Nandric excepted'. Now can you name some AT carts which are cheap but also have beryllium cantilevers? The 'dark side' is more exciting than I could dream beforhand.
Regards, |
Dear Henry, You obviously have no idea how big Lew's cellar is. |
Fleib, You wrote, "Unless the parts in both sides of the preamp are perfectly matched, and not almost perfectly, performance is worse." Can you explain? If there is not perfect matching between the two phases, then one does not get optimum CMR, for sure. But why would performance be "worse"? It is not so in my experience. Using a balanced tube phono stage, I am quite sure that matching is not perfect, but I nevertheless perceive a benefit. For one thing, hum is usually common mode, and there is clearly a better S to N ratio with balanced as regards that common bugaboo of phono (hum). |
Dear Fleib, Sometime one should keep his strong believe intact. I was convinced that the AT 20 SL stylus was some aluminum alloy. But my comrade just got a visitor together with his (visitors) microscope with two 'values': the first one $2500 the second 200 x magnification. There is no way to contradict both: the comrade as well as the microscope. Besides my comrade is an engineer while I am only a lawyer. Whom would you believe better in any technical matter?
But now 'something totally different': to what connector should the the Din 5 (arm) ground connector be connected in the XLR connector? If at all that is.
Regards, |
Nikola, It was inaccurately reported and I repeated it, that the cantilever on the AT-20SL and SLa is beryllium. It is described as tapered aluminum at LpGear where they have the orig replacement needle. Regards, |
I think some of the confusion here is the result of contradictory terminology. The phono cart has a (+) and (-) side, I.e. (+) and (-) sides of the waveform, and that's why it's inherently balanced. The - side is often referred to and sometimes used as the ground, but not in a balanced input. The ground connection in the preamp DIN plug should be connected to the tonearm ground, not the - side of the cart. If the cart has a grounding strap, it should be defeated for balanced connection.
There is a popular way to hook up single ended cables sometimes called "balanced". This is 2 conductors and shield. 1 conductor is + and the other is -. The shield is connected to - (ground) on the source end and floats (not connected) on the receiving end. This would only be appropriate for balanced if the source end was connected to the arm ground ONLY and receiving end connected to ground.
The 5-pin tonearm DIN plug has the connections in a U configuration. The one centrally located at the bottom of the U is the ground.
What's the big deal about balanced phono connections, 6dB of common mode noise rejection? You guys running 30' tonearm cables? Unless the parts in both sides of the preamp are perfectly matched, and not almost perfectly, performance is worse. How many shades of black? Regards, |
To add to the confusion there are RCA ÍC's also called 'symmetrical'. The wire used for connectors have 2 or 3 'leads': left, right + shild . By 'symmetrical' RCA connectors the 3th (shild) wire is soldered on one side only together with the 'negative half' of the wire with the intention to use the shild as the real shild and not as conductor. By the symmetrical phono-cable there is,uh, the asymmetry between the (3 lead)wire (x 2=6) and the DIN 5 connector.So for those who like to make their own cables there is the puzzling question what to connect (solder)with what? If 'we' connect the 'pins' 2 and 3 on the XLR connector then the 3th (shild wire)) can be soldered to the pin 1. This way we have a similar 'construction' as by the RCA 'symetrical' kind: the shild is soldered on one side (XLR side) only and function as the shild and not as ground or conductor. What then about the ground on the Din 5 connector? I have never seen a symmetrical (XLR) phono-cable with a separate ground connector. So while there is an obvious shortage of connectors on the Din 5 side in relation to 2x3 'leads' side it seems to me that the 'ground' on the Din 5 connector is not used at all by such (XLR)cables. One can imagine the (soldering)problem by the attempt to connect both shilds to the tiny Din 5 ground connector. If this make sense than Mr. Hansen should provide his customers with his own symmetrical phono-cable by which the Din 5 ground,as a separate ground connector, should be connected to the phono-pre and by which the shild is not connected to any connecor. |