Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas
Hi Nandric,
If you look at the underside of the CA, you'll see the cantilever exit the body from a rectangular piece of black plastic. That plastic is actually part of an AT stylus assembly. If you pry it up you'll see what we call the plug - this plastic piece holds the cantilever, magnets, etc. The rest of a usual AT plastic stylus, we call the wings. The wings can be cut off any plastic AT stylus and and you can insert it in the respective body to make it like a CA assembly (sans wings). However, not all plugs are the same and you are limited in what you can substitute.

The plug style for the CA carts is the same as an AT-95, K9, AT-3400 series and all the P-mounts with the unusual wings that are tall and angular like the AT-92ECD. The only upscale styli in this group is a couple of P mounts and they might be bonded. But, if you get extra plugs from a cheap replacement stylus, you could use them for extra styli. I just put a 92E stylus (P mount) on my Virtuoso and I'm going to try it on a low mass arm. This is a bonded .3 x .7 elliptical/aluminum.

You can use any of the Jico styli made for the AT-95, just cut off the wings. These would include an LC (Vivid Line) and a shibata. They are high quality, but bonded on a straight alum cantilever.
Regards,
Hi Fleib, Yes you are right. I even told Alex Raul's considerations and wanted,
to put it simply, 'the same'.
But I deed not mention any particular stylus. Alex will
consult me and make his own suggestions. I am however not
sure what you mean with: 'you can have different styli
mounted on separate plugs'. I got the impression that the stylus is not removable . But I deed not inspect the Virtuoso careful. I bought the cart on the German ebay with the broken stylus and thought : Bingo!
Would you be so kind to elaborate on stylus and styli?

Kind regarda,
Banquo363,
After you have removed the nut/screw that holds the cartridge to the mount, set the cartridge aside. I used a pair of plyers to pull out the 4 pins in the mount. The remaining holes were far to small to insert the arm leads into so I used a small drill and enlarged the 4 holes big enough the get the leads thru. If I was to do it again, I would just (using a xacto knife), cut out a square out of the back of the mount. I would then have easy access to the cartridge pins. I bought some wire that was the same size as the cartridge pins and slid the wire into the leads. Using a strong set of tweezers, I then crimped down the leads to fit tightly onto the wire. I felt that when the time comes to open the leads back up to a larger diameter, I would just shove a round toothpick into the leads forcing them to open up again. I have done this toothpick trick before and it works. What you don't want to do is crimp down the leads without having anything inside to prevent them from colapsing.
Griffithds:

How did you accomplish this? I've read about this before and in fact the guy I bought my azden cart from cut off the pins from the p-mount adapter and said he attached his leads through the hole and directly onto the cartridge pins. For the life of me, I couldn't get any leads I had to make it through the holes. Are you just crimping them on the very short length of cartridge pin that sticks out beyond the hole in the adapter? If so, you are getting a sufficiently tight connection this way? To get them to go tightly around the thin cartridge pins, there's no going back for the leads since the ends are now unusable for any other cart (too small). Right?

Or is there some other way I'm not imagining?
Hi Nandric,
I guess your cart will be very similar to Rauls. You didn't mention what kind of tip you ordered. Your Virtuoso, like any other AT MM, can exchange styli. You can have different styli mounted on separate plugs, and compare. I hope you didn't order a micro stylus on an aluminum cantilever. That tends to be an overly aggressive combination on ATs.
Regards,
Hi All,
I'm on my 2nd read of this thread. I'm trying to do a much slower read this time and taking notes. There is so much information to gleen from this. What has prompted this responce is something I have just reread pertaining to the Azden YM-P50VL. A few months ago I bought one of these from a fellow Audiogoner. Absolutely amazing cartridge, but because of this reread, I have discovered an improvement to this an all "P" mount type cartridges that I had overlooked from the 1st read. Bypassing the "P" mount pins and connecting the tone arm wires directly to the cartridge pins raised this cartridge to another level in my system. I have 2 of the Azdens but only made the change to one of them. I mounted both onto their own Graham 2.2 arm wands to make quick comparisions. I am hearing a more focused/dynamic presentation of the soundstage with the altered "P" mount cartridge. A belated thank you Raul, for bringing this to our attention.
Hi Fleib, I just posted my Virtuoso (black) to Alex in Germany for a retip. J.Carr's comment on aluminum cantilever in mind I asked for a 'pressure fited' stylus
in the aluminum cantilever (aka without glue). As soon as
I know more I will post about.

Regards,
Hi Lew,
When I first got the 980 I took it up to 2.4K. It was all midrange at first. After some hrs I kept reducing it until somewhere around 250 ohms sounds right. The stylus is problematic. Most of those Pickering stereohedron have disappeared. A couple of vendors that used to have them sold out. I found a 4500Q at TurntableNeedles for almost $300. I had a bad experience with them before, and I'm hesitant. I also want to get a new stylus for my Virtuoso and I haven't decided what to do with either one. Lately I've been listening to a Monster Genesis 1000 - an old friend.

I think I'm going to experiment a little with high cu styli and low mass arms with the Virtuoso. I'll let you know.
Regards,
I'm sure I've also tried 100R and 47K with the 980, and I don't recall hearing much difference, but I could be wrong.
Dear Fleib, Re your last post. I forgot to say that I load my 980LZS at 1000 ohms, typically. Also, you may know that the correct original stylus assembly is the Stanton D98, which is a stereohedron. The Pickering equivalent is the D7500S. So when you say you feel you are not getting max out of the cartridge, possibly you could upgrade with a higher level Pickering stylus assembly. The D98 has become unobtainium, but one can find the Pickering D4500S (which is also good and works with 980) and the D7500S, on the odd occasion and for big bucks (on the "buck" scale applicable to vintage MMs, cheap on the modern MC scale of spending). My D98 is of uncertain age but still sounds great. However, because I was so fond of the cartridge, I took the opportunities to purchase both a D4500 and a D7500, as well, both NOS. They are "around".
Dear Unoear: I think nothing really important or maybe I misunderstood Thuchan post because I don't consider my self as a marketing man. I'm only a man with deep love for the music and that's all.

Btw, great audio " toys " in your audio system, congratulations.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Hi David,
This is interesting. One tidbit I didn't see in the Audio Circle post, was this: **On another topic - compating my Revox Linatrack arm to the JVC QL-Y5F... the high frequency response is pretty much the same, resonance frequency range (5Hz to 25Hz) reflects the expected mass and damping differences.**

Was 25Hz with the Shure? Do you notice any anomalies in the bass/lower midrange with it or other med cu carts with the Revox arm? Many carts have rising response in that region. The low mass arm might minimize it and the high mass arm maximize. I'd guess the rise would be greater with the M97. I'd also guess that the rise is greater w/aluminum cantilever. You need a med mass arm on your next acquisition.
Regards,
Hi folks,

Fleib - could not agree more about cantilever impact on the frequency response...
My remote testing of Shure V15VMR-SAS (on Empirelvr's system) vs my own N97xE-SAS shows that the same cantilever structure and proportions can be tuned differently in the suspension and tensioning to result in completely different results.
I finally bit the bullet and ordered a V15V SAS - which is what I really wanted when I ordered a N97xE-SAS about a year back. - So I will test both in my own setup and see the difference.
Interchanging between an original Shure V15HRP stylus (beryllium HE) and the N97xE-SAS - again they are very different styli, and require completely different loading parameters.
The N97xE-SAS works best in a high capacitance configuration - I am currently listening to Madam Butterfly on the Revox - with the N97xE-SAS mounting in a V15HRP catridge, C=490pf R=47k - this provides an almost completely flat f-r to 15k and then a very steep drop off.
Any attempt to extend the f-r beyond 15kHz can only be achieved at the cost of a rise at 10k-16kHz (cantilever resonance area), and a drop at 6k to 10kHz (cantilever skew/twist loss zone).

On another topic - compating my Revox Linatrack arm to the JVC QL-Y5F... the high frequency response is pretty much the same, resonance frequency range (5Hz to 25Hz) reflects the expected mass and damping differences.

The JVC However shows a noticeably larger boost centered on roughly 300Hz and extending 1 octave each way (150Hz to 600Hz) - the exact magnitude and extension of the boost zone tends to vary a bit with cartridge (and perhaps headshell?) in use at the time, but is fairly consistent.

The Revox also shows a touch of boost in the same area, but whereas the Revox tends to boost by around 1db, the JVC boosts by around 2db.

I believe these are tonearm resonances.... is this consistent with other people's experiences?
What can be done about this? - Are there tweaks/adjustments that can effectively control this? (without wholesale arm exchange that is!)

I previously thought it might be an anomaly on the test records - but it has been consistent across a range of differing test records.
I have put a dab of plasticine (modelling clay) on the JVC arm in an attempt to damp vibrations - but if it is having an impact, it is clearly not on this frequency range!

bye for now

David
Dear Thuchan: Wrong and wrong.

What are in the today market are very good tonearms and what could be in the future could be very good ones but I don't care too much in what the others made it or make in the future but mainly in what I can do to fulfil my targets on tonearm design. When these targets already done then I can say safety that I'm done.

Btw, as better tonearm designs as better opportunities for the customers and of course a better challenge for every designer.

In the other side I'm not a marketing guy I even do not have a premium MKT manager as you but " things " could change: who knows.

Btw, next time you travel near México please let me know and we will try to give you a private/confidential primacy show on that tonearm design " jumping " in my audio system.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
the other thing why we are not finish yet is because that is not our each day work.

As with our Phonolinepreamp Essential 3160 the design was primary to build it for personal use and not with an specific commercial targets and then if could be interest of other people then we can go a head in that " road ".

R.
Dear Audpulse: A tonearm design is not very complex task ( no rocket to the moon. ) but this could covert in something complex depending on the design targets.

Our main target is that in that tonearm any cartridge can shows its better uqality performance level against any other tonearm set up. We are not fulfil this target yet, we are almost there but needs additional tests that are the ones we are doing.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Lew, Raul,
Thanks for your responses. I'm always curious about other peoples experiences with this one. I usually load it between 200 and 300 ohms, depending on the pre. Apparently there was a MKI and MKII version of this cart. I don't know what the difference is. I think I have the MKI. Mine doesn't say MKII on the side, like an 881 MKII.

I've only had it a couple of yrs. I bought it NOS with a Pickering 3001 - .2 x .7 nude elliptical. I also have a Jico shibata. I always get the feeling that nice as it sounds, there is potential that I'm not getting. Part of that might be the need for more hrs play time but I can't help but feel that a high quality stylus/cantilever would improve things. I'm not going to order a custom stylus at this time, because I don't have a good feeling yet about any options.

In my MM investigations of the past few years the stylus differences on the same cart provides a real education. Look at an Ortofon 2M Red vs Blue. They are identical except for the tip. The nude elliptical on the Blue seems to provide adequate tracking, based on user reports. The bonded tip on the Red presents problems with inner groove distortion and sibilance. I've read many complaints. The obvious solution is to replace the stylus. The Red/Blue generator isn't very different from the Black/Bronze.

While there is always the fear of changing the voicing for the worse w/cantilever change, there are examples of carts that came with either a high quality alum cantilever or an exotic one. The AT-15/20 is a good example. On the other hand, put a SAS on a M97 and the freq resp is changed significantly. This might be due mostly to inadequacies of the electro-mechanical system, but are better carts immune?
Too bad there are no exotic styli available for the CA. I think this was intentional, but possibly the only body AT would use for OEM purposes. I'm also guessing that AT makes the body/generator and the stylus. The plug on the CA has no compliance screw, just a fitting - the same as a 95. All the Jico styli have the screw.
Regards
Dear Fleib: If can help you last time I heard to mine I loaded 100 ohms, as a fact I always load that cartridge at 100 ohms. Works for me.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Fleib, I am running the 980LZS straight into my modified Atma-sphere MP1. I say "modified", because I replaced the all-tube phono input dual-differential cascode with a hybrid one, composed of an MAT02 transistor on the "bottom" of the cascode and an ECC99 triode on top. (The stock MP1 uses a pair of 12AT7 on bottom and a single 12AT7 on top.) The MAT02 has higher transconductance than any tube ever made, and this gives tremendous gain (almost too much in some cases) with dead silence. To reduce gain downstream and to reduce the output Z of the phono stage, I also replaced the 12AT7 at the output of the phono section with another ECC99.
Audpulse,
I think Raul buried the project because he was waiting for Dertonearms new arm, which should have arrived too. I do understand that it takes a long time developing a tonearm or TT. On the other hand we are dealing more or less with marketing guys, don't we?

best @ fun only
Raul, when are going to let us have a peek at your tonearm that you designed ?
Nice story, Raul. A good turntable can bring family and friends together. My friend plays records with his two young children every night. Ever since I started with vinyl last year, house parties feature vinyl hour after hour. People love it, mostly for the nostalgia but some for the sound.
Dear Pryso: Mainly with the AS and Virtuoso Wood in AT tonearm and in my own tonearm design.

I listening too the Technics 205MK4 and the Sonus D5 in Grace and Satin tonearms and even CDs.

In every single set up the main experience is the same and not dependable of a specific one.

Are the speakers quality performance level what were improved.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
OK Raul, I'll ask . . .

Which of your many tables/arms/cartridges provided this "can't quit" experience?
Dear friends: Sorry to insist in a personal subject.

Yesterday my daugther ( with my granddaugther and Juan her husband. ) came to my place for a family dinner as every Saturday.

Normally the system is onn and we listen to CDs over the whole dinner's time and normally too at some time after the dinner and after over-table talking I switch to Lps and I seat to listen.
No one of my family join me on specific to hear LPs ( they stay talking in between or whatever. ), suddenly my daugther told me : dad how clear is the sound!

She is accustomed to hear my system and I can't remember when was the last time he made a similar comment ( I think never did it. ), so that was a " surprise " to me so I talk with her an explain why the sound now is so clear and she take seat and stay listening for a few minutes till she ask Juan to seat and listen ( Juan play piano and sings very good too. ).

A short long history: they been listening LPs for the next three hours: LP after LP.

Today ( Sunday ) I'm listening music ( LPs. ) right from the 8 o'clock in the morning and right now are 3 o'clok in the afternoon and I can't stop.

What a new experience!, for say the least. I heard dozens of systems and I can't remember any that portray the music not only vivid and full of emotional content but so right and true.

Yes, I'm really happy with.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Lewm: I see. I only want to have a reference before I take the task to set up one of my Denons.

Anyway, I will do it when I can give me or have some time.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Lew,
May I ask what preamp you're using with the 980? If you're going straight in, what resistance?
Thanks,
Dear Raul,
When it was "on-line" I had the Urushi or the Colibri in the Triplanar tonearm mounted on the DP80. Thus I never heard it with MM or MI. Technics SP10 Mk3 has now replaced the Denon DP80 in my shelf system; the DP80 sits idle in my basement. I have been listening to MM/MI on the Lenco in the DV505 with various headshells and/or the Kenwood L07D in the L07J tonearm/headshell. The Stanton 980LZS sounds so good on the Kenwood that I hate to break them up. It may be my favorite rig.
Dear friends: Something that I did not mentioned about the Duelund resistors on my crossover midrange speakers is that the ones I talked on my first post ( on this subject. ) were the ones that define the midrange lower frequency works range.

As I posted my midrange needs two filters ( high and low pass. ). Well when I decided to test/try the Duelunds I search to where I can have the best price ( due that are pricey items. ) and I found out that M. Percy was that source but things were that in that moment the ones for the high pass filter value was out of stock and then I have to ordered through Parts Connection.

I received two days ago and certainly these ones are more " important " than the other ones because through these single resistors pass all the midrange frequency range signal on my speakers.

Well, do you think I like it?: NO this could be a misunderstood ( yes I know the best resistor is no resistor but I have to live with in the speaker design. ). Fleib, and I gree with him, said resistor on crossover are lousy but the Duelund shows no sign of it.

It is not only that the whole sound is more transparent/ with less veils and the like ( some items perform with in theory " transparency " till you found out that that transperency is only " bright " distortions. ) but that these resistors contribute to lower the system distortions and the " more " important issue: the kind of DEFINITION that every single note/harmonics now I hear and it is not because before the speakers performance was not first rate because IMHO it was and it is this fact what overwhelming because the Duelund swap improve in a not expected quality performance what already was a " top " quality performance.

What can add other that if " unfortunately " your speakers came with resistor then IMHO it is worth to test that the Duelund ones: just remarkable and un/non-imagined.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Lewm: Did you try a MM/MI cartridge along your Denon DP-80? with which tonearm?.. Thank you.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Halcro: Thank's. I don't know when but I will do as sooner I can.

Seems to me that you are enjoying LPs as never before, good.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Raul,
If you can.....and you have a remote armpod :^)....it is really worth a try.
It's really the additional information being recovered from the grooves which allows me to adjust VTA and VTF with grater accuracy.
Hi Lew,
Yes......I finally managed to find a Victor TT-101 in mint condition and it just 'slips' into the same position in place of the TT-81.
TT-101
I am currently speechless about what I am suddenly hearing.
You can see photos updated on my Systems page attached here.
Henry, Did I miss something? Have you moved from TT81 to TT101? If so, congratulations. I have some degree of lust for one of those.
Dear Halcro: I think that now ( because of you. Thank's? ) I have to make my Denon ( similar to Victor. )set up again after 10+ years.

This is not an easy task for me because I have not enough space/area for the Denon and its huge size/weight arm board/plinth'made it from marble or Onyx ( I have both. ). Or maybe could be more simple to me on my SP-10. We will see because now that you mentioned could be a good idea to bring the Denon and play with.

Btw, the Virtuoso VTA/SRA in my set up is only a single " hair " on the positive side: I found out in this way the " I'M there ", neutral VTA/SRA sounds great too as sligthly ( not hair one. ) too.

Now, IMHO canging from one TT other one does not means a necessity to change VTA/SRA because the LP recorded grooves are the same it does not matters about TT or even tonearm: the VTA/SRA IMHO has a direct relationship between the stylus angle and the groove, if we mantain the same relationship ( and we are sure that the " original " VTA/SRA is the best one. ) I think there is no need to re-set when we change TT or even tonearm, at least this is in theory. Could be that the new " resonances/distortions/colorations " ask for that change but seems to me not because a wrong VTA/SRA. What is important too is that with those changes in VTF and VTA/SRA is to check too the azymuth because this parameter change too with those other parameters changes.

Never easy on analog. My reference tracks on my set up proccess help me to be nearest to " there " almost always but nothing is perfect.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Raul,
I'm also back to 2.2 Gm and neutral VTA....tonearm level.
Every change requires a change :^)
Dear Raul,
With the insertion of the new Victor TT-101 DD turntable which has elevated the performance to levels unimaginable before.........I have dropped the resistance on the Virtuoso Ebony to 47K Ohms.
If you can try it, may be better?
Regards
Henry
Dear Dgarretson: Well you are in very good " companion ".

regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Raul, for a long while I have been on an apostatic diversion with Denon DL-S1 MC. I have been lazy about repairing my low-gain phono stage, but am missing MM/MI and hope to return to the fold shortly.
Dear Dgarretson. Thank to you too.

Back to cartridges?: where are " seated " right now? any news from your cartridge tests?

Regards and enjoy the music,
raul.
Dear Lewm: Thank you, I'm aware of it. Anyway and as I posted: I don't " feel " well with shunt/non-constant impedance attenuator configuration.

In the Essential design by design the signal pass thorugh only one resistor. I only want to test other resistors trying to find out if I can get a better neutrality level in this application.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Halcro: Thank's. I'm still with the same 2.2 VTf but now that you touched this factor maybe is time to test additional VTF values.

Regards and enjoy the msuic,
Raul.
To expand on Lewm's remarks about shunt attenuators: when planning the shunt attenuator for my tube preamp I used the on-line Neville calculator to determine the range of shunt values needed to obtain an acceptable range of attenuation in the volume control. As it turned out-- and as has been the case for every active preamp I've owned-- I always need at least -30db attenuation at the volume control, regardless of digital source or phono stage/cartridge output. At this level of attenuation the shunt resistance never goes higher than 3K2. Within this operating range the 100K shunt attenuator offers a stable input impedance.

Another nuance of a balanced attenuator is whether to shunt to ground, or to shunt between phase and anti-phase of the balanced signal and float from ground. I took the latter approach-- using a variable light-dependent resistor to shunt between the signal phases. This is a very simple and clean sounding volume control, with just six resistors for two balanced channels. Everything is hard soldered in and there are no switch points in the signal path.

Back to cartridges...
Dear Ecir, I am going to use a 100K single-ended stereo attenuator built by Khozmo to build the attenuators I described in my last post. I have them in my possession now but have not installed them. They seem to be very high quality. I can only say it took a long time and a lot of patience to get them, but the company is completely honorable. The 50K resistors that are in series with the signal will be nude Vishays. The Khozmo uses Dale/Vishay resistors that in my application will serve as shunt to ground only.
Dear Raul, Following on Dave's comment about balanced attenuator, what Dave has done is analogous to what I learned as a way to build a balanced attenuator that will be truly balanced at all settings. That is to use a simple SE stereo attenuator with a single resistor to ground at each set point. Then use input resistors on both ends of the control, where the signal goes into that resistor and is taken out from the other end of that resistor; the stereo attenuator serves as a shunt to ground only. Typically, one chooses one's desired input impedance (the value of those input Rs) and then uses an attenuator that is double that in impedance. For example, in our tube preamps, Dave and I would use a "100K ohm" attenuator with 50K ohm input resistors for each half of the balanced signal. The circuit is difficult to describe in words; I can refer you to some on-line information, if you are interested. It's really quite simple. (Dave has gone astray from that formula by using LDRs, but he is happy with the results.) The downside is that this type of attenuator does not have a constant input impedance. I don't see this as a problem, as long as the minimum impedance is sufficiently high so as not to attenuate high frequencies. The upside is that you can have a very high quality attenuator that does not take up much room in a chassis, costs much less than a fancy balanced ladder attenuator, and is simple to construct, and can sound just as good or better than any resistive attenuator,
Hi Raul,
60K Ohms resistance and 70 uF + cable.
Also find that 2.0 Gm slightly better than 2.2gm and slightly positive VTA.
Regards
Henry
Dear Halcro: How do you loaded ( impedance/capacitance ) your Virtuoso Black Wood?

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Halcro: I don't want to comment today about those " differences " in each one quality performance level perceived in each one system with different cartridges other than IMHO all those cartridges performs at average quality performance level. Of course there is a wide explanation about but this for other better time.

I don't want either to touch the subject of " the best " other that IMHO always exist " the best ", some other time we can go in deep in this controversial subject.

Now, good that you like the Virtuoso, it can be in other way, IMHO only with a poor system or a deaf one ears person we could not hear and appreciate the vitues of this Clearaudio MM cartridge.

I already listened with other headshells and with some little differences always performs great, including with wood headshell you could try it with your Yamamoto and obviously with other tonearms, I think you can't be dissapointed.

I think too that you could " play " a little with VTA/SRA only to confirm if the cartridge is " there " or only near " there ", worth this " excercise ".

In the other side remember that my sample has a modified stylus that your stock one not but this speaks by it self of the Virtuoso Wood quality design/execution level.

As more you listen to it as more aware you will be on the recordings content that you was unaware or at least with the Virtuoso those " emotions " are a great experiences to live and to share.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.