When using a power conditioner, why is it advised to run amps directly to the wall?

IMHO, the myth that amps need to be plugged into a wall plug is just that.  A myth.  Regardless of the current available,  your amp only draws what it needs.  I run a pair of Hegel H30 mono blocks, rated at 1150 watts each.  When in use, they pull about 3 amps.  Even when they need that split second "headroom", any decent conditioner can handle it.  I'm assuming of course,  that people on this site, with good systems, are not buying budget conditioners.  The concept that a conditioner  would deaden the sound of an amp, that is only using a few amps for the majority of the time, is simply counter intuitive.  But this is only MHO.  If plugging direct to the wall floats your boat, go for it.  Cheers.

Do you think today’s higher quality power conditioners manufactures are going to build a product that is going to suppress high current power?  Why suppress sales? Engineers can work the problem out. That’s why they are on the payroll.

Simaudio recommended I plug my Moon amp directly into the wall. 

ChatGPT had a slightly different recommendation based upon the quality of your power. : 

Try both and trust your ears — but here’s the practical guidance:

• If your power is stable and clean: Plug the Moon 330A directly into the wall, preferably into a high-quality outlet (hospital-grade or audiophile-grade).
• If your power is noisy or voltage varies: Use the Furman P-2400 AR. It’s one of the few conditioners designed not to choke amps.

Just my .02....

Some things to consider; First. If you plug into the wall outlet, you are plugging into a shared circuit.  It was not designed to be a "clean" circuit for audio.  It just meets the basic needs of your everyday house.  Lamps, Coffeemaker etc.

Second, the Amp customer service guy is solving your problem in the easiest way possible.  They are thinking you probably have a cheap component in your system and the simplest solution is to just by-pass that component.

Lastly.  No one here mentioned "Protection".  When you buy a conditioner, it also acts as a surge protector.  It is a dual use machine.  Without any kind of protection, you can sacrifice your equipment to the junk heap. 

I just put together my new system.  $25k.  I got a Furman Elite and followed their advice and had a dedicated 20a line installed.  This might seem excessive to some people but the $150 they charged to install the line and the $850 I paid Crutchfield for the Furman seemed like a bargain compared to the cost of the amps.  The NAD C298 amps I use sound fantastic and they are run through the Furman.

And...I don't lose any sleep worrying about what a lightening surge will do to my system.  Don't be swayed by internet myths. 

Of course a cheap component might affect your sound quality. It's the same old "you get what you pay for".  Think about it; if conditioners REALLY did what these people claim, how long do you think they would be on the market?

I guess I am lucky to live in a location where power noise issues do not seem to be noticeable, at least in my system.  I do understand how power issues may be more noticeable to folks who live in multi-family condominiums or apartments with shared power, and suspect the effect of conditioners might be more noticeable in some of those situations.

In my system, dedicated 20A circuits, 10 awg Romex in the wall, good outlets, shielded power cords of sufficient gauge using noise cancelling geometries and good connectors, and components with well-designed power supplies seem to be sufficient to keep power line noise below what I can perceive. I do power my front-end digital gear from an Isoclean 60A3 II that is mainly used to provide multiple outlets rather than for any conditioning. 

In the case of my amplifiers, those are plugged directly into the wall and have no on-board power switches or in-line power fuses.  However, in the wall, I have wired two thermal magnetic switches (one per amp) that are exactly as used by the amplifier manufacturer in their most current amplifier designs.  Those serve as the on/off power switches and protection for the amplifiers, since they do not have on-board switches or fuses.  The power cord length to the amplifiers is 1 meter and I have tried shielded and unshielded power cords with no perceivable difference.

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