What Lacquers have been used on cables with succes

Abe:

If you are just looking to seal the ends and the solder joints pick up a small bottle of Q-Dope @ an electronics shop. A 3" tall bottle should be under $3. It's a liquid "poly" plastic, I think (can't find my bottle to confirm type).

I use electrician's alcohol right now to clean wire and joints (previously used Kontak which was better, but I spilled the remainder of my bottle and have yet to replace it).

There is a also a "non-residue" spray contact cleaner by MG Chemicals of Canada that works well (approx. $4.50/can).

I use burnishing cloth (the purple stuff) myself as I don't like the mess that steel wool leaves behind. The main thing it to not touch the metal parts, with your fingers, after they have been cleaned and to also clean the solder joints prior to sealing them. If using magnet or insulated wire I run the Q-Dope up and over where the insulation meets the bare wire. JR or Jon Curl (one of those guys) recommended Q-Dope over @ AA.

Abex:

If you have any luck with lacquer + carbon you might then research violin/wooden instrument lacquer. Some of the highly rated ones are not that expensive (under $20/pint).

There is also a great deal of tweaky info on lacquer/varnish in some of the speaker/Hifi forums.

http://f18.parsimony.net/forum31999/

http://6402.teacup.com/le8t/bbs (in Japanese/use Babel Fish)

It's obvious as to why lacquer changes the sound of drivers, but there may be some info to which to apply to your application.

I would also try searching other Japanese/German/Italian Hifi sites for info (maybe you will come across a DIY C-37 formula).

http://babelfish.altavista.com/ (free translation software)

Most already know this, but powdered graphite is what locksmiths use to lubricate sticky locks (it's cheap and readily available).