What is Floyd Toole saying about extra amplifier power and headroom?


I've been reading Floyd Toole's "Sound Reproduction The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms" and came across a passage that I wish he went into further detail about. It has to do with whether having amplifier headroom has any noticeable improvement in sq. He happens to be talking about getting the bass right in small rooms, but in doing so, he also touches on the use of a larger amp for extra headroom: 

Remedies for unacceptable situations typically included spending more money on a loudspeaker with a “better” woofer (without useful technical specifications, that was a lottery of another kind) and a bigger amplifier (for useless headroom ...

It's the last part ("useless headroom") that I'm curious about. I have notoriously hard-to-drive speakers (Magico Mini IIs). Although the recommended amplification is 50w - 200w, in my experience, that's a bit of an underestimation. I'm driving the Minis with a Musical Fidelity M6PRX, which is rated at 230w @ 8ohms. (The Minis are 4ohm.) The combination sounds excellent to my ears at low to moderate listening levels, but I notice a slight compression in the soundstage at higher levels. My listening room, while small, is fairly well treated with DIY panels made from Rockwool, sound-absorbent curtains, and thick carpeting. So I don't think I'm overloading the room. But I have wondered if an amp with far more power than what's suggested (more headroom) would drive the speakers with a little less effort.

Those of you familiar with Toole or with driving speakers with power to spare, what are your experiences? If I went with, say, a pair of monoblocks that drive 600w @ 4ohm, would the extra headroom address the compression I'm hearing at higher levels? Or am I wasting my time and, potentially, funds that would be better spent elsewhere? 

Thanks!  


diamonddupree

Showing 1 response by hshifi

Hello,
Typically an amp will increase wattage when driving lower ohm loads. A 100w amp might go to 160w at half the ohms.  It doesn’t always double, but it usually increases. I don’t think power is an issue unless you hear clipping at higher levels. The rock wool could be a little too much if It is really thick. You are drowning out the mids and highs. And the drapery could be too little. Especially if it is not symmetrical. Room treatment is an art. You could be absorbing too much of the highs and those treatments you talked about do very little for bass. Plus the left side should match the right. You might want to switch or add defusers so you don’t kill your highs. At low levels your 7” drivers are balanced or barely keeping up. When you turn up the volume they could be drowning out your mids and highs. I think you need to test with near field listening. If your speaker wires are short get some cheep longer higher gauge wire and put those speakers in a 6’ - 7’ triangle to you. Remove some of the sound of the room. If it sounds really good it’s not your amp or the speakers. It’s the room. Redo the room treatment. Last but not least. Get two subs. My speakers are rated to 25hz. I still have two REL 9t subs. MC has four in his room and he has monster Tekton Moabs. Subs balance out a system and make it seam like your system is a 1000 times bigger even at the lowest volumes. Like I said your 7” drivers might not be moving much at low volumes but a sub can. When you rock out the sub can take over every thing below 50-80 hz. To do: Near field listening to determine is your equipment matched, balance absorption by removing or less thick rock wool to balance curtains, diffusers instead of absorption in some areas. (GIK.com), last but definitely not least a sub or two (sealed and 10” driver/s) stay away from ported subs- too sloppy in most cases.