What exactly do ya do about a 15 foot run ?

Due to the fact that you are only supplying power to source components, you should be able to get away with 'less' than than if power amps were also included the circuit's demand. Experimentation is the only way to determine what will work out best. You could temporarily locate the equipmnent closer to the wall outlet (installing a quality outlet at that location) & connect to your Wireworld strip etc, then listen for a day or so to charactarize performance. Then move the gear back to where you want it located & try a heavy gauge extension cord. The above advice "fewer connections the better" is certainly valid; you could install a female IEC at the end of the heavy cord for connection directly into the Wireworld strip. However I would want at least *some* line conditioning so I would put a relatively inexpensive Chang Lightspeed 3200 'filtered 6 outlet box' or equivelant in place of the Wireworld. Don't get me wrong I like the Wireworld strip, but when I replaced it with a low current Chang for source components, the sound became cleaner & quieter.
Following the extension cord experiemnt, you could twist up a bundle of #12awg THNN wire into an "extension cord" attaching some good quality ends (Schureter or Marinco plug & female IEC) etc; there are others & I doubt that I spelled either name correctly so research is in order. For the next comparison you could make an "upgrade extension" using better wire from Kimber DIY series cable or other 99.99% OFC copper & compare that with the regular Vutron cord that you started out with. If I was doing this then that's where I'd begin (never mind the experiemnts just do it right to start with). Above all, just install a decicated line & forget it, but as was stated this may not acually be necessary.

If I could not add dedicated outlets that were closer to where needed (that would be my 1st choice too), I would go with a high quality outlet strip such as the Cardas, but there are others such as JPS which Steve McCormack recommended to me, and then also use Cardas, or your favorite power cords.

When I moved my amp to directly between my speakers, it was a long way to the nearest dedicated outlet, and I ended up special ordering a 14 ft. Syn. Res. Master Coupler power cord. It was $500-600. but worth it to me for one major component, but this wouldn't be practical in your situation where several outlets are needed. Good Luck. Craig

Just run a long power cord. Should be the best, easiest, and cheapest alternative.

Mike Vans Evers will make you one of his power cords in any length you need. Cost is quite reasonable. Check out his web page for his phone number. Buy one of his conditioners while you're at it. You will be VERY happy. Don

Nah. All those additional coupling connections (extension cords) wouldn't be good, even if they were hi-end. I had a 18 foot run to the AC mains from my rack. And for a while (about 6 months) I ran two of those wireworld power strips ($15 ea @ audioadvisor, I think) plugged in series. That gave me almost enough length to use the remote outlet. I would think the wireworld power strips would at least not degrade the ac link, like a regular extension cord, or Home Depot power strip would.

Then I got my VansEvers power conditioner. I thought about making an extra long (20 foot!) DIY power cord (I wouldn't buy one that long, new. it would cost too much) to run from the power conditioner to the remote outlet. I'm currently running a quickly slapped together one. I have to strain to hear any difference, if there is one at all. Buddy of mine agreed to make me a nice one. it's gonna be two independent runs of belden cable (one for + and -, which each's separate ground run) terminated with WATTaGATE connectors. That might be a little better, but we'll see.

I would think, the less connectors the better. It would also be abonus is everything was high quality. You system looks much better than mine, so it might be more "worth it" for you.

For you, I might get a power strip (vansEvers or Wireworld) with a detactable IEC cord. Then I'd buy or make a decent continuous IEC run from the power strip to the remote AC outlet. Less connectors, probably the better. And instead of a power strip with detactable IEC, you could use a power conditioner with detactable IEC.

Though $600 will get a dedicated line with proper grounding with most electricians. This is probably the best solution in the long run (no pun intended!).

I have BAT equipment. It likes plenty of juice. The suggestion above to run a new dedicated line is a good option. Then the power cord of your choice. You'll notice big differences with AC with the BAT...sounds great, but with a good power cord and a dedicated 20amp line...sounds even better...

Is it possible for you to run a new line?
Seems like a perfect excuse for a dedictaed line!

You can always get an UO as the bridge.
As far as 'fancy' cords, you can get a decent one for $50 - $100 that'll be better than 'stock' stuff.

Hope this helps.

KP