Macauak....That's what Harry told me....didn't work. The cure I noted above is the only way to completely solve the problem that I know of. The increase in purity, dynamics,
soundstage, etc. is magnitudes better than stock. |
Krell 303.....that absolutely drove me nuts. I spoke to Harry a number of times, he gave me different belts, but although the wobble was less, it still wobbled, and it still drove me nuts. After searching for a year, I found the answer. My rim drive is absolutely rock steady, and sounds better than any turntable I personally have heard. OK...what's happening is that although Harry's belts are machined well, they are not perfect. You have to have the belt that is around the large disc drive that moves the platter itself be absolutely perfect, or have a workaround. Here is the workaround that is perfect. The motor assembly has to be able to move back and forth thus absorbing the outofroundness of the rust collored belt that is around the drive plate. HOWEVER!! the turntable itself CANNOT move therefore, that back and forth motion that was transferred to the table, and thus to the arm has to be completely eliminated. Get Bearpaws from Vermontaudio.com. These are very heavy brass cones that replace those VPI feet which were designed to move and absorb stray sound. NO GOOD. The platter has to be absolutely rock solid so that all the energy from the turning drive platter moves the motor assembly but not the platter and arm. Trust me...this is THE cure. You will love the increased fidelity from this setup. |
Buconero117 - Not any more |
Yes I know about that. Dan and I went round and round until I figured out my issue. What I did was raise the motor assembly with four Cardas wooden blocks still with the soft sponge rubber feet on the unit, which placed the rim drive in exactly the right place on the edge of the platter. With the newly designed Bearpaw, you don't need those 4 wooden Cardas blocks. Regarding vibs from the floor....I would make sure that my supporting table is solid, and would still get those Bearpaws...especially now that it is a custom fit. I know that it will prevent the arm from rocking. I think that's the best you can do. My floor is very solid French travertine tile...one reason I bought this house |
Thanks for the information about the tera stone. Let me know how it works out |
I was told that the metal rim on the superplatter is more accurate than the acrylic....that's why the directions is to adjust the height so that that drive wheel rotates on the metal. |
Krell303....as for MY SS/rim drive, I got all of #1 and none of #2. Maybe it's my Bearpaws maybe trolls, but I'm a happy vinyl guy. Just thinking as I write. My floor is very solid French travertine tile at ground level with no basement. The turntable sits on a very solid table on a very solid floor. Anyway, its working well.
Normansizemore...VPI arms sit on a needle point, and the rocking can be very obvious with the rim drive. Most arms have gimbled bearings which would prevent the rocking I discribe. I suspect Thorens, Duals, Garrards, Miracords, etc. wouldn't have this problem even if the drive wheel were elliptical. |
Krell303...Running the table for 10 years won't help it. you need Bearpaws or something similar to eliminate the wobble. If you have wooden floors, I would make sure that the table that the VPI rests on is very solid...that's about all you can do. I am quite sure that would be enough. |
Hiedmuse is absolutely correct. The reason for the Bearpaws is to eliminate any movement whatsover. Rollerblocks will only make it worse. |
Good place for those RollerBlocks. |
it was a revelation when i sold the Superplatter and installed the Classic platter...much better in every way. The Superplatter sounds tubby, closed in, and restrictive compared to the Classic. |
I agree Lewn....and Harry agreed with me as I was going through this issue with him, that the Superplatter isn't and I was told just can't be made with the tolerances needed to work with the rim drive....that's one of the big (maybe the biggest) reason the Classic platter was/is manufactured. By solidly anchoring the platter and its ancillaries to my very solidly supported table via the BearPaws, and allowing the errors of the non-round platter to be accommodated with the sprung support of the motor assembly, I was able to eliminate the rocking of my then 10.5i. That rocking was making me nuts to look at it in operation..surprisinglyl not heard to that great extent in the listening. The motor assembly would dance in time with the non-roundeness, but that didn't bother me as much. However, I wouldn't rest until I found my fix. |
BRF...you evidently have the Super Duper Platter.....mine was not good at all. |
