Upgrading Spikes on Target Wall Shelf

Thanks Stan, I've noticed a number of isolation products using some sort of ball.

It's very difficult to level the Target frame because the one I got is not perfectly true. There is also a degree of flexing depending upon the amount of weight applied. I also don't want to use the feet of my turntable for leveling. I wish to tighten them up and then loosen each one slightly. This leaves the leveling to the slate shelf.

I'm not using the Star Points but have some solid brass ones from way back when. This solution turned out to be very good looking if nothing else. It just seems to me that I'm sending vibration from top and bottom into the slate.

I have used them both ways and they work both ways but Star says they work better downward and after initially disagreeing with this I have come to the conclusion they are right. But you could try it. The Audio Points are available with their own screws so they would be easy to substitute . Slate works well, I use to use it to make turntable platforms, put deflated racquetball under them, latest thing in 1982. Stan

Thanks guys! I'm using a slate replacement board because it has been identified by the importer of my TT as the best solution for this particular piece of equipment. He has experimented with many materials.

I don't like the rounded screws either but I still want the re-leveling capability for the shelf.

Wait a second...what if I keep the screws and srew on to them audio points. In terms of vibration control, would it be a no-no for the points to point up with the slate board sitting ontop?

haven't upgraded (changed) spikes, but i've changed the shelf out, with great results. using a neuance board, which i think are no longer made, very time consuming to make, i'm told. i've heard of some people on the cheap changing the stock boards out with birch ply with good results.

I have been replacing the points on my equipment with Star Sound Audio Points gradually. So far have them under my REL subs, replacing the stock feet on my Scoutmaster, unthreaded ones under my stand mount speakers and under my components. I have some target stands that I am going to try soon. In every case there was a noticeable improvement.

I actually thought of grinding a point on my set screws to make them act like spikes....It has to be better than the rounded set screws......I would go to the hardware store and take one stock set screw with you and match the thread size and experiment gringing points on the replacement screws...........
( keep the stock ones as is )and try that..Thas what i am about to do........