I have had my pair of 1.7's since about April. Owned MG1B's and MGIIIA's for a long time before, listened and liked the MG1.6's but not enough to pull out my wallet for the difference.
The 1.7's have that critical quality for bass realism, weight that is satisfying to a tuba player and low mid range tonal accuracy. The 1.7's on initial listen caused me the same reaction as the IIIA ribbon tweeter, a little bright so used the 1ohm resistor. Over a few months I realized the brightness was a source issue, that my Linn Genki and Oppo 971HD weren't handling the highs musically, into my DAC creating listening fatigue. I now use my PC with an HRT Music Streamer II USB DAC and Foobar2000 as a music player to feed a CJ PV10A and Musical Concepts modded Hafler. The 1 ohm resistor is out, just the stock jumper, sounds gorgeous with 24/96 tracks and the 20 bit HDCD RR recordings that DBPoweramp allows me to decode and rip.
As to tweaks to make your sound better
1) get idle cone speakers out of the room unless they are small. Idle cone speakers resonate and collapse sound stage... good Linn dealers can demonstrate.
2) consider the mye stands or any other like alternative the will brace top and bottom of the panel and tie solidly into the floor. A tall panel speaker like the MG 1.7 with foot stands producing music is like a car engine flopping around on broken motor mounts. It will damp/blur your transient peaks if you leave the panel free to move.
I don't recommend leaving out the fuses... it only takes 1 power hit to make your tweeters toast... been there. Fuses and jumper substitution doesn't have a science to it but won't break the piggy bank either.
Enjoy, if yours sound bright/fatiguing as mine did at first look very hard look at your source equipment
The 1.7's have that critical quality for bass realism, weight that is satisfying to a tuba player and low mid range tonal accuracy. The 1.7's on initial listen caused me the same reaction as the IIIA ribbon tweeter, a little bright so used the 1ohm resistor. Over a few months I realized the brightness was a source issue, that my Linn Genki and Oppo 971HD weren't handling the highs musically, into my DAC creating listening fatigue. I now use my PC with an HRT Music Streamer II USB DAC and Foobar2000 as a music player to feed a CJ PV10A and Musical Concepts modded Hafler. The 1 ohm resistor is out, just the stock jumper, sounds gorgeous with 24/96 tracks and the 20 bit HDCD RR recordings that DBPoweramp allows me to decode and rip.
As to tweaks to make your sound better
1) get idle cone speakers out of the room unless they are small. Idle cone speakers resonate and collapse sound stage... good Linn dealers can demonstrate.
2) consider the mye stands or any other like alternative the will brace top and bottom of the panel and tie solidly into the floor. A tall panel speaker like the MG 1.7 with foot stands producing music is like a car engine flopping around on broken motor mounts. It will damp/blur your transient peaks if you leave the panel free to move.
I don't recommend leaving out the fuses... it only takes 1 power hit to make your tweeters toast... been there. Fuses and jumper substitution doesn't have a science to it but won't break the piggy bank either.
Enjoy, if yours sound bright/fatiguing as mine did at first look very hard look at your source equipment