turntable to computer - another question

That's my understanding. I have provided this link for your reference: http://www.acondigital.com/us_Acoustica1.html
Don't get confused with other products with the Acoustica label, though.

If you read the information it describes it as "software emulation of phone preamplifier". They provide a trial download. If you have the inclination, check it out.
Regards and good luck,
Bob

Alebobsing-
Thanks for the info. So if I use software with RIAA equaization, I don't need a phono amp?

If you were to search the web for a 'USB interface' you will find lots of them available. M-Audio do a USB version of their 2496, and other companies such as Behringer, Edirol and others offer similar products. They go from a few 10's of dollars up to professional kit at several hundreds of dollars. Most USB interfaces should work for playback as well as recording, so for playing back your recorded files you can use the 'cleaner' external soundcard - that's a whole different topic though, and one which has filled up lots of space on forums. One thing to consider is the type of input connection you will be using, most probably RCA 'phono' plugs. On this matter it is worth pointing out that the software I mentioned above (Acoustica) has in-built RIAA equalization. This should mean that you can plug your turntable direct to your audio interface instead of via an amplifier. This is a feature which wasn't in the software when I used it, but if it works, then it could make things a lot easier

Any other good ways to go from vinyl to the computer? I was going to use a M-Audio 2496, but found out my G5 Mac is one of only a couple of newer Macs that it won't work with. Someone (who sells them) recommended an Art USB Phono 2. Any other options I should be looking at?

This web page has very good basic information: http://www.delback.co.uk/lp-cdr.htm#record_soundcard

For recording software, I used a program called Acoustica by a company called Acon from Germany. It's similar to Audacity (which is freeware), but I preferred its ease of use.

One thing you will need to consider is software which de-clicks your LP's. If you're very lucky and only have a few scratches then you can do it manually using the software mentioned above, if you have more than a few scratches (which was my case despite my best efforts to look after my LP's) then you should consider an automatic solution. There are a bunch of programs out there, but only two which I have found which do a 'proper' job - i.e. distinguish 'clicks' from musical transients such as drums. The programs are 'Wave Corrector' and 'Click Repair'. Worth checking out.
I used an M-Audio 2496 recorded to WAV at 24bits 96KHz, then encoded to APE lossless.
I hope this helps.
Good Luck
Bob

Check out the "Ripper" by Jim Hagerman. It works very well.
www.hagtech.com

Pdow, the simplest way to get some of your vinyl moved to your PC is to connect from your receiver's REC OUT/Zone 2 jacks to your PC's sound card (at the line input jack). Assuming your PC card accepts a standard 1/8" stereo plug, you'll need a "Y" cable to combine the RCA cables from the two REC OUT jacks on the back of the receiver into a single stereo plug.

The network connection on the receiver certainly allows the receiver to use your PC as another input source, but I don't know that you can use this network connection to allow your PC to access the receiver as a source for the PC.
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