Turntable Isolation Journey


Nearing the end of my journey to solve footfall & feedback issues in my small-room "home office" system with very bouncy floor and flexible walls. Turntable is the only source here -- and it’s a Clearaudio Innovation Compact with no suspension or special isolation feet. This system always sounded good, but was rendered nearly unusable at higher volumes due to turntable isolation that was inadequate relative to this room’s challenges. The worst artifact was when structure-borne feedback from the speakers would cause amp clipping on bass-heavy tracks. This clipping would manifest as an extremely loud singular POP sound, especially hitting the tweeters. It only occurred during the loudest parts of track with bass-heavy elements, and was so loud it was still significantly above the level of the music -- much louder than a POP you would hear from vinyl surface defects. The POP sound was startling, and clearly very bad for tweeters (fortunately my Tannoys seem to have survived several of these incidents). For a time I thought these POPs were from static electricity discharge, but they were NOT. In my quest I tried many solutions and tweaks over a few months, and I’d like to share a rundown of what worked versus what didn’t.

What Helped (MVP products & tweaks):

  1. Townshend Seismic Isolation platform -- Single biggest difference maker, for combating both footfalls and structure-borne feedback from speakers. Amazingly-well designed and built. Leveling was a snap. Well worth the price! If you spend money on isolation, spend it here. Highly Recommended. I’m now considering more Townshend products for under my speakers and in the big loft rig.
  2. Rack Bracing -- Pushed rack right up against the wall (stud / drywall) with a 2’x2’x2" Auralex foam panel tightly wedged in between the top half of rack & wall. This SIGNIFICANTLY cleaned up rack oscillation from footfalls. I see a LOT of folks with nice turntables atop tower-style audio racks, and they could benefit greatly from this "hack". It is cheap & free; the only downside is you may need to reposition your rack. I learned about this "hack" by a couple comments buried in "turntable isolation" threads searched via google. This really CANNOT be overstated.
  3. HOCKEY PUCKS -- Placed under rack spikes in place of the stock aluminum cups or Herbie’s Giant Gliders. Just let the spikes sink right in! This actually cleaned up the very last bit of energy from footfalls; foot stomps with needle-in-groove are now DEAD QUIET. super cheap and effective! Far superior to most audiophile footer devices. Might also help in rack bracing by tightly constraining the rack between wall & floor (Herbie’s Gliders were too slippery).
  4. Rack positioning -- Get your turntable & rack away from the speakers. If you can move the rack far enough behind your speakers, that might be OK, but most rooms cannot accommodate enough depth for this. Placing the rack several feet down a sidewall worked best in this room. Choosing a structural wall also aids in rack bracing. Make sure you don’t place the rack in a room "node" where bass is amplified. Walk around while music is playing to find a nice quiet-ish spot. I kept my amps by the speakers and ran 5 meter XLR cables from the preamp / rack.

What Underperformed:

  • Critical Mass Sotto Voce rack -- the rack is gorgeous and nicely rigid, but doesn’t have nearly enough mass to combat the bouncy floor in this room. Once braced against a wall, the rigidity of this rack was allowed to shine. However, before the bracing, its performance was poor. I will say I have Critical Mass’s Maxxum rack in my (main) loft system on a more solid floor, and the immense mass & rigidity of that rack was game-changer for that system. I do like CMS products, but they are dearly expensive.
  • Critical Mass Black Platinum filter -- Top shelf of the rack. This actually has a significant positive effect, but is limited to the midrange and treble frequencies. It cannot combat footfalls or low frequency feedback. I still like and use this platform, but at more than twice the cost of a Townshend platform it belongs in this category.
  • SOTA Nova V Turntable -- I thought this table’s suspension would render it impervious to room issues, but it’s not. It helped with footfalls but some structure-borne feedback was still getting through. I suspect the suspension needs a tune-up. Quite frankly I think the OLD suspension (it started life as a 1990s Star III) was better tuned and more stable before it came back as a fully rebuilt Nova V, circa 2018. The new vacuum platter was a huge improvement but the new suspension has been disappointing. The Clearaudio deck also sounds a bit better, so now with the Townshend platform it’s an easy choice. Note that the Townshend also uses springs as its isolation mechanism, but I noticed that the Townshend’s oscillation is far better controlled and damped versus the SOTA. You can SEE and HEAR its performance advantage.
  • ISOAcoustics Gaia III speaker feet -- these seemed to have some small positive benefit, but honestly not a lot. Not worth the money.
  • Lovan Sovereign modular rack (three 10" modules high) -- these are very similar to the VTI racks I see everywhere (which I’m also familiar with). These racks lack rigidity and stability. I would not recommend placing a nice turntable on one of these racks. However, if you do, please brace it against a wall (Auralex foam works great). They’re relatively cheap and look good, so I at least understand their popularity. If you have this rack, at least try hockey pucks under its spikes :)

What Was Worthless (Don’t waste your money like I did):
I’m not going to bother expanding upon these; suffice to say they had no discernible positive effect.

  • ISOAcoustics Orea Indigo feet (under maple board & turntable).
  • Symposium Segue ISO turntable platform
  • Herbie’s Lab Giant Gliders (steel) - Placed under Sotto Voce rack spikes
  • Speaker spikes -- at least they look cool :)

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Showing 3 responses by tonywinga

Good post and I see that many of you are astute and have a good understanding of vibrations and their effects on our stereo gear.  I want to add a few remarks to help everyone understand how best to isolate their gear.

Springs isolate and rubbers dampen.  A spring/mass system has a dynamic response curve that can be expressed as a ratio of input vs output across a frequency range.  Beyond the natural frequency of the spring/mass system the response ratio becomes less than one.  That means the vibrations going into the spring/mass system are reduced coming out.  I isolate my gear with spring rates that achieve a Natural Frequency of 3 Hz, or there abouts in order to isolate my gear at all higher frequencies.  It is easy enough knowing the mass of a stereo component to calculate the spring rate required to achieve a system natural frequency of 3 Hz.  I have never seen a Townsend speaker platform in person but I'm sure that is what it does.

Rubbers dampen.  I know, we often see the term "rubber isolators" but that is not entirely accurate.  Dampers reduce vibrations- especially important around the natural frequency of spring mass systems since the system can go out of control at its resonance point.  But dampers also cause phase shift.  This phase shift property of rubber is why we hear tonal variations or colorations.  Sometimes these colorations are helpful and sometimes they are undesired.  Nevertheless, all of the spring/mass systems of our stereo gear need dampening.  The problem for me is I am not smart enough to determine the best dampening materials or amounts to use beforehand with calculations.  I have to use the trial and error method or what we call experimentation.  In most cases I found that isolating each of my stereo components with springs and then utilizing the factory supplied feet for dampening is sufficient.  So I have each component on a wooden or delrin board supported by springs.  In the case of my Sota turntable, I have it standing on a carbon fiber board supported by Isoacoustics Orea feet.  After much experimentation with various materials I found this was the best solution.  Yes, I was surprised by how much even my Sota is affected by the base it stands on.  It has never been susceptible to footfalls or woofer pumping, but the tone changes based on the stand it is placed on.  Since the Sota turntable suspension has a natural frequency of 3 Hz it cannot be placed on a spring isolation platform.  A double spring/mass system would be a total disaster.

I built my own speaker isolation platforms a few years ago using springs and butcher blocks.  I got 48 lb/in springs from McMaster Carr and four per speaker got me a natural frequency of 3.1 Hz for the speakers I had back then.  I was amazed at the difference in the sound on my suspended floor that isolating the speakers made.  Eventually, I bought the Isoacoustic Gaia footers to try on my speakers.  The speakers sounded better with the Gaia footers although they did not isolate the speakers from the floor as perfectly as my spring platforms.  Why?  The Gaia footers add dampening and this made the tonal balance of my speakers more pleasant.  I moved my spring platforms to my home theater subwoofers.  They make the bass deep, clear and crisp.  

To sum up, it takes a combination of isolation and dampening to find the optimum sound.  I do it by putting each of my components on a spring loaded platform for the isolation part and then dampen the component at the base- in my case typically the feet supplied by the manufacturer.  But experimentation with other dampening materials for each component may yield a better solution.

PS.  I'm amazed at the number of expensive high end turntables that lack any sort of isolation, or just a minimal amount of isolation requiring the consumer to spend yet even more money on a highly engineered isolation platform.  If your turntable lacks a spring isolation system then build platform yourself and save yourself some money.  You can find natural frequency calculators online for spring/mass systems.

Just like in life- too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. Too much dampening can deaden the sound. That is especially true when working on room reflections. Too many reflections muddy the sound but too few makes the sound dead/dull.

If you look at a chart of a spring mass system, the response ratio is about one below the natural frequency, then wants to shoot to infinity (constrained by physical limitations and dampening) at the resonance point (the natural frequency) and then falls below one and lower as the frequency input goes well above the natural frequency. So the spring mass system is absorbing the energy that is being put into it via airborne or mechanical vibrations through the floor.

Think of a car. A car’s suspension system is simply springs. The shock absorbers are pistonic dampeners that keep the car from bouncing at its natural frequency while driving down the road. If you have ever driven over an old bouncy suspension bridge at just the right speed the spring action of the bridge can interact with the car’s suspension and make for quite an exciting ride because the car’s suspension will interact with the bridge.

You might wonder why then if speakers are sitting on springs for isolation from the floor shouldn’t they start bouncing around and dancing across the floor like an out of balanced washing machine on spin cycle? They don’t because the spring suspension system is tuned for a natural frequency around 3 Hz and speakers are not typically able to go that low. Also, the mechanical energy output of the speakers is still way below that crazy washing machine on spin cycle.

One more thing before you I start to annoy you all. A turntable tonearm is also a damped spring/mass system. The stylus in mounted to a cantilever which is mounted to a spring in the phono cartridge. The cartridge also has a dampener- typically a tiny o-ring. Phono cartridges have a compliance figure- that is the spring rate. The tonearm has an effective mass. It is not the same as the total mass of the tonearm and counter weight because the tonearm is mounted on a pivot. Knowing the compliance of the phono cartridge and the effective mass of the tonearm (always provided in the manufacturers specifications) one can calculate the natural frequency of a phone cartridge and tonearm system. Why is that so important? The goal here is to have a system natural frequency around 10 Hz. That’s because if the record has a warp- that is at 0.5 Hz (33.33 rpm) or 0.75 Hz (45 RPM) we don’t want the tonearm to have a resonance response near that frequency. And on the other side- the music frequency response starts at 20 Hz so we do not want the tonearm to respond at that frequency either. With the wrong set-up the tonearm will fly right off the record. Been there, done that.

My Sota Nova VI has the magnetic bearing.  Much quieter than my previous Sota Star V.  I thought the Star was quiet and what I was hearing was groove noise because the noise seem to vary from record to record but that noise is gone with the Nova.  Further, I have the Eclipse Motor and Roadrunner speed control system.  It works really well but I wasn’t too sure until I figured out how to use it.  One button turns the motor on/off and also toggles the speed between 33 and 45 rpm.  I had to learn to hold the button down for a count of 2 when starting the motor.  Otherwise, the speed wants to toggle to 45 rpm.  The button has to be held down for the count of 2 when turning the motor off.  I knew that and once I realized the same holds true for turning the motor on everything was fine.

I have a set of Sota cones as well as the Sota rubber feet for the turntable.  I experimented with both.  For me the sound is better with the rubber feet.