Tube Rolling for Pre-amps?


I have an Audio Research LS-16 that feeds a Madrigal Proceed HPA2 solid state amp. 

I did not choose this equipment; it was given to me. From what I can tell the original owner spent a good bit of time matching up these two components with the speakers, Aerial Acoustics 7Bs.

The tubes in the AR are original. Probably 10-15 years old? But with an extended period of not being used.

The system sounds good to me. I don't need to change anything.

However, I've been told that the tubes are old and may need to be replaced soon. I've also read a little bit about tube rolling but most of the articles I've seen talk mostly about tube rolling with amps and not pre-amps.

So I have some questions:

1) If the original owner wanted a system that sounded like a 'tube' system, why not have a tube amp and pre-amp? Does it make sense to have a tube pre but SS amp?

2) Other than outright failure, how will I know if my tubes _need_ to be replaced?

3) With a SS amp, will changing tubes in the pre-amp have a noticeable impact on SQ? In other words, is tube rolling for a pre-amp played through a SS amp a thing?

4) For someone like myself who is happy with the system and who is also easily frustrated by A/B testing is tube rolling the pre-amp even worthwhile? I can almost always hear a change when comparing various components but only rarely am able to say A is better or worse than B.

( I probably can't even articulate effectively what I look for in terms of SQ except that I like the bass to be tight, precise, well defined and not boomy. I do not like the music to be overly bright or tinny. I like depth and lushness but not overly warm. Not sure if these are things you alter with tubes.)

Thanks for any advice.


n80
I suppose this site has a reason, for filtering out a USPS tracking number, when one member's trying to PM it to another.    Whatever that reason might be, it's just stupid!
@rodman99999  I also had a pair of 6922's; one JAN and one USN matched. Later I upgraded to a pair of Amperex 7308 PQ USA, $400 pair, all from Brent Jesse. The 7308 have the same liquid sonics, but with awesome bass impact. Mine are matched 1960 & 63. These Amperex (and Philips) are so rare that different years must be tested to find a matched pair.

This will be interesting. Just hope my ears aren't so dull that I don't hear anything different. (I probably should not be pre-loading expectations either!)
I got very lucky many years ago and ran into a dude that had several master cartons of Amperex USN-CEP 7308 Gold Pins and he was looking to just unload them, (pretty sure he didn't have a clue of what he had).  I bought 10 or 12 pair of them.  GREAT tubes.
Just jumping in here a moment to share my tube pulling method-I use a piece of Saran wrap to grasp the tube.It gives you a firm non slip hold.Not when they're still warm of course:)Pull straight up and you may have to wiggle them gently.Looking forward to your thoughts later on the new tubes!
@n80- "I probably should not be pre-loading expectations either!" I haven’t mentioned anything, regarding attributes to be expected/anticipated, for that reason. I’m fairly certain, you and your wife will notice what the tubes deliver, without prompting/suggestion. Particularly, if your pre-amp, is still equipped with it’s original tube compliment(perhaps, Sovteks?). Take your time and listen to your favorite/most familiar cuts, for anything, "new".

Thanks guys,

I contacted Brent Jesse and explained my situation. He has 'butt ugly' versions of the Amperex which are tested and matched that he recommends (for my budget) at $170 per pair.

So if I like the way rodman's tubes sound I might go that route.
Interesting that many of the concerns being expressed regarding tubes/tube rolling are addressed with the PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium preamp. 

How do I know if a tube is failing? The PL preamp has LED indicators that indicate a weak or failing tube and the protection circuitry that shuts down the preamp to protect it.

What about biasing newly rolled tubes? The PL preamp has audio biasing circuits that eliminate the need to manually adjust bias.

Contaminating tubes by handling them? The PL preamp comes with a set of white gloves for handling tubes.

Damage to tube sockets from tube rolling? The PL preamp uses high quality ceramic sockets that are bolted to the heat sink chassis and hand wired forming a connection that is structurally superior to the more standard practice of having the sockets wave soldered to a PC board. 

Not trying to sound like a commercial for PL but hey....just sayin'

J.Chip
Sounds like thoughtful innovation there and that would certainly influence my purchasing decision if I were in the market. Currently I'm 'stuck' with what I have. Plus mine was free. ;-)
@ jchiappinelli - I’ve yet to see a tubed pre-amp, that requires it’s tubes’ biases to be adjusted, when they’re changed/installed. Not saying, one may not exist. Biasing is always required for power output tubes, whether done automatically, or- manually(fixed bias). The PrimaLuna Premium integrateds and HP power amps have LEDs to indicate bias balance, and tube failure, for their Adaptive Autobiased power output tubes. Where are the LEDs located, that indicate tube failure, on the DiaLogue Premium pre-amp chassis? Where does PrimaLuna mention, "auto-biasing circuits", regarding it’s preamps? I’m just curious. From the PrimaLuna preamp manual, "Further, every time you insert a tube, you stand a chance of loosening the tube sockets. It’s okay to have fun, and we support that, but don’t go crazy and swap tubes in and out twenty times in a day."(No one’s sockets are bulletproof).
@n80-   The only deal better than, "free", is if they pay you to take it!   
@n80-   They kept asking, "Are we there yet?", all the way to the Post Office.
They kept asking, "Are we there yet?", all the way to the Post Office.

Damn tubes :-)
rodman99999,

I stand corrected. I was confusing the features contained in the PrimaLuna power amps with that of the preamp. Seems like a well made preamp nonetheless.

J.Chip
@jchiappinelli- I live in the state of confusionI(Stunadia). Have to check myself and my, "facts" constantly. Senior moments/brain farts, seem to be increasing in frequency(Old-Timers Disease, I suppose). PrimaLuna has done much, to take the pain out of tube audio. Particularly, in their power amps. I’m also a big fan of(mostly) P to P wiring, the use of quality parts, extended tube life and the flexibility they offer, in choosing output valves.
@rodman99999 : The tubes are here and they do look pristine. Testing begins now.

Right now I'm listening to the CD I will use for a reference with the original tubes.

Couple of questions:

Obviously I will unplug the unit before opening it but how long do I need to let it cool down before changing tubes?

The original tubes appear to have some sort of rubber ring around the outside of them. Does this stay with them or do they get removed and put on the new tubes?

Will let you know what I think once I've had a few listens. Will also get my wife to listen as well and see what she thinks. She is not an audiophile but she is a musician.....and sometimes 'naive'' ears will be more sensitive since they have no expectations.


Okay, I couldn't wait. Got them installed in the V1 and V2 positions.

I can tell a difference immediately.

The first thought in my head was "laid back". Maybe this is what people mean by 'warm'. And this might be impossible but the music sounds a little slower. Not so much a tempo issue, almost like a slower pace. Can't really describe it. I think the highs are tempered a bit and a little less bright than the original tubes, which might be a good thing. Certainly less clinical than the original tubes. The effect on bass is interesting. It seems a little deeper but does not seem to have lost any tightness or precision, or at least not much.

That's all I can say right now. Will obviously let them play for a few hours and then put the old tubes back in for another comparison.

For the record, the original tubes are Electro-Harmonix. They say "Made in Russia" and below that "04 02". 6922H is printed near the top. Pins are silver in color. Each one has two rubber rings up near the top.

Thanks again to rodman99999 for the opportunity to give these a try.
Five or ten minutes will do. Be very careful, not to touch ANYTHING inside the unit, BUT one tube’s glass envelope. It’s a pre-amp, but there may still be some serious voltages, waiting to awaken you. The rings are dampers(probably Silicone) and you can try them on the Amperex.  They'll probably take some of the print, off the tube(not a biggy).  You might try waiting until you’ve listened to the Amperex for a couple days, without them. See if you hear a difference. Take your time, relax and have fun.
OOPS! Looks like I missed a post. Couldn’t wait, HUH? No surprise! I think I mentioned, in the note I enclosed, they might sound strange, before they’ve been played for a few hours, having been in a drawer for seventeen years. I don’t think the EH tubes were from the factory, but then- I can’t swear to anything ARC’s done, since the early 90’s. They were using Sovteks, back then. I always thought EH tubes kinda zingy, but- that’s just my opinion and you know what they say about those!   Your welcome/have fun!
I've been listening for a couple of hours to several favorite and familiar CDs now and can say "laid back" and "warm" seem to be the right terms. I can confirm that the highs are less stringent as well. There is nothing that I'm hearing that I don't like but I also can't say that I have a strong preference between them.

Two strengths that I would attribute to these tubes: 1) They give a more analog and less clinical feel to digital media. 2) They seem to soften the harshness of overly compressed/loud CDs. This may be they biggest appeal to me.

Al, I'm not going to put the silicone rings on the Amperex tubes. They are fairly hard to get off the old ones as is.
Use the silicone rings (dampers) if you want to tighten up the bass. And you may not need to use both dampers.
As long as the tonal quality of individual instruments is accurate you may not need any dampers.