Tube monoblock options?


Anyone have a good suggestion for tube monoblocks? I've been holding out for a used pair of MC75-III's, but hard to come by. The system is comprised of Oppo-205, Mcintosh C52 and McIntosh MC275-6.  I don't want to get another 275, since my dealer told me that "just because you can bridge the 275, doesn't mean you should".  Anyone have a comparable option to the mc75? Entire system is balanced, so would like to stay away from SE.
lilchris9

Showing 3 responses by georgehifi

Really!!!

If your referring to OTL's into those loads 🤦‍♂️ The bass will sound like a stick of salami wack’ed against a lounge your suit, and it’ll be all mid/highs dominated.
https://www.stereophile.com/images/1018FoKan2fig1.jpg
But if your referring to his up coming yet to be released Class-D, it has a far better chance of driving them.

Cheers George
lilchris9

A bridgeable amplifier can potentially supply as much as 4x as much power in mono mode as in stereo mode, depending on the specific design, but that increase in power capability is usually accompanied by several sonic downsides
As bridging any good stereo amp takes a hit sound quality wise, for the sake of more watts.

Pity your 3 way Focal Kanta No.2’s aren’t bi-amp’able, (you could do it if you have the skills) then you can put the MC275 or 75 on the midrange and tweeter where it will sing doing 300hz and up, and then just use a Class-D or linear grunter, on the 2 x per channel bass drivers from 300hz down.
https://www.stereophile.com/images/1018FoKan2fig1.jpg

Cheers George

lilchris9 OP

Like I said above a 275 or 75 will do very nice for the Kanta’s mids and tops, but they won’t drive this kind of bass loading very well between 60hz to 150hz
As with the combined impedance and -phase angle it will look very nasty, down to 2ohms to those tube amps.
And if those tube amps were bridged, it would look far worse (deadly) to them.

https://www.stereophile.com/images/1018FoKan2fig1.jpg

If your not capable get some one who is, shouldn’t cost much, to spit the xover and add another set of terminals to each speaker for the double bass units, pretty easy job, and bi-amp with a Class-D on the bass.

Cheers George