Trying to find someone with a cable cooker in Metro NY


Hello to all...

Have recently been 'exposed' to the concept of cable cooking to improve performance, but would like to pay someone who has one, to do it to my interconnects and speaker cables, each for a 3 day (72 hr) treatment... Would be nice if you are in the Metro NY area, but would be willing to ship to you if out of area.

Would also like to hear from someone with comparative experience (geoffkait?) in using this and/or cryogenic treatment: if results are different, one more effective than the other,  one more lasting than the other, must treatment be redone periodically?

Please relate real-life info ( don't be a second level whistleblower, passing relayed to you experiences...).

Best Wishes to all.
insearchofprat

Showing 40 responses by geoffkait

Not to troll or anything but I know someone whose name I shall not mention MG who is a big believer in placing cables as well as other audio items like CDs and even entire components in the oven at low temperature for about an hour or two. Keep in mind I’m not dismissing his idea. I’ve tried it. So maybe a game plan could be a couple hours in the oven 🔥 then a couple days in the freezer. 🥶 Hey, isn’t that what the Polar Bear Club does! 
OK, let’s get back on track. The great thing about the break-in CD is that it breaks in everything in the system - CD player, interconnects, digital cable, speaker cables and speakers, plus all the capacitors, resistors, wiring, and uh, fuses. Playing music through the system doesn’t provide a signal that is high 🔜 enough in level to even begin to break in things. I did not create reality. It’s just the way things are.
Glubson’s idea of a “friendly exchange of ideas” is him running his very stale Brer Rabbit and Tar Baby routine until no more sense can be made of the thread. He’s very good at the Brer Rabbit and Tar Baby routine but it’s a very narrow way to participate. What about this? What about that? 
Ions, electrons, photons! Lions and tigers and bears, oh my! What we have here is a full frontal manifestation of the failure of the education system. 
I apologize for glubson. We’ve tried everything. 😢 He even took a self imposed vacation. Nothing worked. 🤡
You missed your calling, glubson. You should have been a writer for the Pee Wee Herman Show. 🚴‍♂️

Moving right along, after such good luck with cables, what else can we freeze and get a boost in performance? 🥶 The answer may surprise you. 🤭 I have more tricks up my sleeve that The Amazing Randi 🐇 🐇 🐇
Glubson is like the Energizer Bunny. He takes a pounding but keeps coming back for more. A glubson for punishment? 🤡
Thanks for the illuminating responses. So witty.  I gnu I could count on you! 🙄
Glubson, is your dog writing your material now? Have you completely given up? Are you confined? No need to respond, they’re rhetorical questions. 🤡
delkal
But scientifically I don’t buy the dielectric needs to burn in for a cable (a wire with insulation) and AFAIK no tester has ever shown a difference.

>>>>Emphasis, one assumes, is on “AFAIK.” How could you know what ALL testers have shown? In fact, can you find ONE tester who found no difference? One thorough tester, that is. 

It should be mentioned that cables, especially low signal cables like interconnects and tonearm wires, never have sufficiently high signal levels (amplitude) passing through them to burn them in completely, even over long periods of time. It is not cumulative. That’s the real advantage of using a burn in track or Cable Cooker. So, even after only a couple of days of proper burn-in you can easily surpass results from using only music to burn-in cables.
delkal
For the record......Scientifically (and I am a scientist) I don’t believe you need to burn in a piece of wire. But I still made a DIY interconnect cooker just to stop that little voice in the back of my mind saying it will improve things and sound better without having to wait 200-500 hours. For me it was worth the 1/2 hour to solder a few parts together from my junk bin.


>>>>That’s a good point, but only in the sense that cable burn-in is fairly well agreed, you know, scientifically, that’s it’s actually the dielectric that’s changed by burn-in, not the wire. For fuses, who knows what burn in accomplishes? The solder joints? The air? 🤡
Pop quiz (multiple choice): What happens when you burn-in cables on the Cable Cooker in the reverse direction, directionality wise?

a. The induced magnetic fields reverse direction
b. The electrons flow in the reverse direction
c. The polarity is reversed
d. The photons hit a brick wall
e. It doesn’t matter which direction the cables are burned in
It comes as no surprise to your humble scribe that you’ve never heard of it. Oh, by the way, are you a shut in or something? 
I know Alan and watched him do it. The cables were burned in on at least one machine for a couple of days. Cables and cords were by Jena Labs and the dude from NSA or whatever.
The fabulous system I was invited to participate in at the Tuscany Hotel in Vegas in 2002 used the Cable Cooker to burn in all the high end cabling just prior to the show. Now, whether that was responsible for the system getting Best of Show is anybody’s guess but it probably didn’t hurt. 🤡 Know what I mean Jelly Bean?
I will explain it anyway. The reason I mentioned Hydrogen is because a lot of people believe that the home freezer at -10 F or whatever is not sufficiently cold 🥶 to be effective OR permanent for audio related stuff. So, the question is, if the home freezer isn’t cold enough to be effective or permanent how low does the temperature have to be? Some people say just put some dry ice in the freezer to bring the temp down to -70 F or whatever. Is that cold enough? Or is - 300 F nitrogen cryo cooler required? If so, then the question is, is even colder better than liquid nitrogen? In the high stakes game of high end audio one can’t help wondering why nobody is using Hydrogen cryo coolers at -423 F. Are they not available? Are they too dangerous? It all comes down to what I intimated earlier - that the physical changes produced by these thermodynamic processes are NOT (rpt NOT) responsible for most or all of the sonic benefits.
The idea that cables will break in the same no matter which way they’re oriented in the beginning is an old wives tale. 🧟‍♀️ We know this after twenty-five years of experience. Its because the wire is not symmetrical. It’s the same with fuses. Even fuses that have been in the system for many years might sound better if you flip them around. What are the odds?

For speaker cables or interconnects that are not (rpt not) marked for directionality how do you know both cables of the pair are the same directionality wise?
glupson
"If -300 F (nitrogen) is real good wouldn’t -423 F be a whole lot better?"
If 70% ethanol is real good for disinfection, wouldn’t 95% be a whole lot better?

There must be a candidate or two on audiogon forums who just got intrigued by your idea and will report the result.

>>>>>>That response probably goes in the file labeled, He felt obliged to say something just to keep his name out there OR

Didn’t he just miss the whole point?
OK, who’s going to step up and get his/her audio cables cryo’d in a liquid hydrogen cryo cooler? If -300 F (nitrogen) is real good wouldn’t -423 F be a whole lot better? 🥶
Skeptics have a long history of humor. 🤡

There’s a skeptic born every second who dreams of being somebody. 
Very few if any cable manufacturers burn in their cables which is perfectly understandable unless they were trying to win contests. Aren’t they all trying to win contests? 🤡 They miss an opportunity by not doing so, since when exhibitors use brand new cables of some brand or another at high end shows they shoot themselves in the foot. It wouldn’t take too much effort to incorporate burn-in into the whole manufacturing process, just like they do with cryogenic treatment and directionality. Bob Crump of TG Audio fame burned in his cables and cords for 30 days on a M.O.B.I.E. Maximum Overdrive Burn-In Equipment device, which I got from Bob on some trade deal we did along with his speaker cables.
Fake concern on your part. Fake skepticism, too. The sarcasm appears to be real, however. No offense to you personally.
mahlman96
It is pure nonsense but if you pay me enough I will buy one and cook your stuff for you and charge accordingly. Since you want to waste money on spurious things why not send it to me?

Being serious here for a moment. What makes you think this is even a real thing to do except reviews from high end audio sales people or columnists with conflicts of interest who get rewarded for kind words about silly things? I swear there is more snake oil in audio cables than any other aspect of audio. True Golden Ear 1% nonsense.

>>>>>>You know, there’s such as thing as being overly skeptical. There’s also fake skepticism. Thanks for being serious. 🤡
Good...for...you...glubson. You’re ..very...in-de-pen-dent!  🤡
No offense, glubson, but you really need to work on your material. You know, to be a clown you’re supposed to be funny. 🤡
You put it in the freezer where the temperature ramps down (temperature per unit time) to -10 F, in about an hour depending on what “it” is, then the temperature dwells (constant) at -10 F for two days. Then the temperature ramps up 🔝 slowly to room temperature by stages, first stage in the fridge, second stage in the room. The reason you do not put things directly into liquid nitrogen and to change temperature slowly is to avoid thermal shock. 🥶
You are very brave. 🤡 You only have to keep cables or CDs, LPs or whatever in the freezer for 48 hours. No need to make things more complicated than they need to be. No reason to wait 60 days to get results. That’s the advantage of home freezing. Then let them warm up gradually by placing them in the main refrigerator section for 4 hours. It’s just like -300 cryo. You ramp down slowly, dwell for a couple days then ramp up slowly.
Excellent, excellent.  I am pretty sure I already answere3d your questions in this thread a couple of days ago, maybe it was yesterday. to whit, all thermodynamic exchanges are permanent and cryogenic or freezing treatments of audio stuff is not completely explained by the usual physical changes that occur for metals and plastics, etc. It's easy to explain why materials are made less brittle, stronger, more durable, stiffer by cryo. But -10 or -20 F home freezer won't be able to do that. So it must do something else, no?
I have been using cryo for more than 20 years for all manner of audio related stuff. Someone has to be first. 🔝 I was also one of the first to use home freezing. First in war, first in peace 🕊 , first in cryo 🥶. First in the hearts ♥️ of his countrymen. Yet I’ve never dipped anything in liquid nitrogen. How can that be, glupson? Or did your head just explode? 🤯

An ordinary man has no means of Deliverance. 🏹
As the hillbilly says to the city slicker in Deliverance, you don’t know nothin’.
glupson
If your next step is to start dipping your equipment into liquid nitrogen, the one after that may need to be your cables’ lap or two aboard Virgin Galactic. It would truly bring your system to new heights.

>>>>>Sometimes it’s a little difficult to believe people can be so blatantly ignorant of common and well-understood things like cryo treatment, even if it is just an audiophile thing. Nobody is suggesting dipping anything in liquid nitrogen. If you’re pretending to be a newbie you’re doing an excellent job, glupson!
It’s unlikely cryogenic treatment of things audio can be completely explained by “more homogeneous arrangement of atoms” or “stress reduction” since home freezing at -10 degrees F is nearly as effective as deep cryo. There’s a little bit of a mystery here, I’m afraid. Perhaps it’s the very low entropy environment of a cryo cooler or home freezer. I’m reminded of the photos-in-the-freezer tweak. 🥶 🤡 Obvious advantages to home freezing are low cost and not having to wait a week or two to get stuff back from the cryo lab. When you have to have it overnight!