Tonearm compatibility and advice


Dear Vinyl Gurus,

Does the spindle-to-pivot distance determine whether an arm fits a particular table? Or is the needle-to-pivot the determining factor? Or does the headshell adjustment allow you to make up for small mismatches?

The tonearm mounting hole on my table is exactly 222 mm from the center of the hole to the spindle. I was considering a Hadcock GH 228 Export, but I'm confused whether it will work with my table. The spindle to pivot distance for the Hadcock is 212.8 mm, which is 9 mm short, but the needle to pivot distance is specified as 228.6 mm which will make the needle overhang by 6.6 mm.

I would greatly appreciate help understanding this geometry stuff. More specifically, will this arm work with my table? Thanks in advance.

For what it's worth:

TT spindle to center of mounting hole: 222 mm
TT arm mounting diameter: 22 mm
Hadcock GH 228 spindle to pivot: 212.8 mm
Hadcock GH 228 pivot base diameter: ~15 mm
Hadcock GH 228 specs
My table specs
mingles

Showing 4 responses by mingles

Thanks Mosin.

You're right. It's a standard Rega spindle-to-pivot distance (222 mm). About a year ago I swapped the original arm (MA-707) for a modified RB300 (Tecnoweight and Cardas wire). I used Turntable Basics protractor to align the cartridge and I'm confident it's dialed in. But the end result is that it doesn't create the kind of spaciousness I've heard on other tables. This is why I'm considering a better tonearm altogether like the Hadcock. My cart is a nude DL-103. Maybe I should stick with the original tonearm and live with it until I upgrade the whole table.

Any suggestions?
Thanks for all the thoughtful replies.

Doug, I appreciate your Mint Tractor suggestion. I saw the thread when it unfolded and wondered if the hype was anywhere near reality. I'll take another look. This might be my best option right now.

Rene, thanks for pointing out the mismatch with the Hadcock and DL-103. I knew it wasn't ideal. I was planning to upgrade carts if I purchased the GH228.

Sns, very interesting. I've been spending time at a friend's house who has a VPI HW-19IV, Moerch UP-4 and Dynavector DV20XH. His playback is much smoother, more coherent and spacious than mine. In the past, he owned similar speakers and electronics as I do, so he knows my system isn't living up to its potential. It might be the DL-103. Or, as you suggest, it might be the tt/arm/cart combo. Maybe I can have him bring his table to my house so I can test this theory.

I'd like get some opinions on the RB300. I want to now if I'm wasting my time with it. I realize it's an entry level arm with flaws, but I get the impression from some folks in the forums that it's not worth the metal it was forged with. I'm exaggerating, but some folks really dislike it. When I removed the Micro Seiki MA-707 and held it in my hand next to the RB300, I couldn't help but notice how the 707 was so much more precisely engineered. The craftsmanship is leaps and bounds better than the Rega. It's been out of my system for a while and I forget how it sounds. I plan to re-install it soon.

I want to improve my vinyl system, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to do that. I'm open to considering anything... a new arm, a new cart, a new table. But maybe I should start with reinstalling the MA-707 and getting a Mint Tractor.
Frankly, if air and spaciousness were high on my list of sonic goals a Denon 103 wouldn't be among the first cartridges I'd choose.
Doug, with spaciousness in mind, using an RB300, what cartridges would you consider in the less than $600 category.
Hi Stanwal, I'm sure the 304 is an excellent cartridge, but I feel the need to try something other than a Denon. I had a DL-160 for many years and currently have a 103 and a 103R. I'm ready for a change. Previous carts I've owned are Grado Sonata, Benz Glider L2 nude, Roksan Corus. I'm also familiar with my friend's Dynavector DV-20XH and like it quite a bit.

I bought the Mint Tractor today and had it configured for the MA-707 arm. I'm going to pull out the RB300. I'd like to rewire the 707, but it doesn't look like an easy project. I have no idea how the bearing comes apart. I don't want to break it. I may just stick with the original 25 year-old wire.