To Couple or Decouple Bookshelf Speakers to Stands?


Just bought my first pair of bookshelf speakers (Focal Aria 906) and stands - have filled the stands with sand. Should I use sorbothane pads to decouple the Focals OR Bluetack them to the top base of the stands?  I've asked 3 friends and received 3 different answers.......
dadgad4

Showing 2 responses by oldhvymec

If the stand is full of sand, it is decoupled. The term refers to bass to room coupling. The floor (normally). You have sand filled stands? I’d doubt that any bass harmonics are transferring down the stand. If you want to tune the bass (increase) you "beard" the front of the stands. By increasing baffle width and height it can be, a nice sonic nugget. Takes a bit of tinkering though...You’ll get it.. Even cardboard will let you work out the W x H. Convex, Concave, Flat, or split baffle...

Regards

Regards

millercarbon
4,901 posts06-21-2020 9:13pm

You get a lot of answers because there is no such thing as decoupling.

Really? Coupling / decoupling, refers to harmonics, thus adding to the ROOM vibration, not the speaker. To decouple from a shaky wooden structure is almost always better. If you have a tip up structure, (all concrete except the lid), that is different again.

Vibration control, and coupling / decoupling are different things.
YET one laps into the other. Walking across a room, or simi going by, the floor shaking, is different than a speaker introducing bass harmonics. Both shake, both vibrate, both are bad, but they are not the same.

You say there is no such thing, then you explain how to decouple the speaker, with books. (partially). I guess that’s when it’s not a thing.

As you explained, there are degrees. It is true (the third answer from OP), the speaker may be PARTIALLY, coupled. So the answer is to add weight, and try to couple it. CHEAP BOX.. OK.. Thick boxes are never an issue.. MDF or HDF. That weight will couple to a room, and shake it....

I decouple completely, I don’t use the bass system at all in any of my monitors...and use decoupling mat. Silicone is always the best, there is nothing better, for the money....

I say if the cabinet is thick enough, (built right to begin with) I don’t need to kill the harmonics by adding weight, It’s already dead.. If a dead cabinet, is coupled to a DEAD stick, (the stand with sand), then it CAN’T be coupled to the floor.. THINK...One way to tell for sure, an accelerometer.

The tap test will tell the story.. does the stand sound like green concrete, NO NOISE.. If it does..Your already decoupled, like I said.. Add all the sticky stuff you can find....It’s already decoupled..Why would you want to
ADD vibration to a room...????? By coupling it.. Unless your on concrete, I still decouple...

In a book shelf, it’s alway the same thing, bass verses, Imaging. Coupling and decoupling is just not an issue with them.. Can’t be. The lack of a wide baffle and a very short one to boot, there just can’t be heart pounding bass, midbass yes. 60-80 hz if your real lucky. More like 80-100 is the lowest they will measure. If you want more bass add a beard. If you don’t like that. Gatling gun a bass system.. DBA..LOL

The reason why so many of floor sanders baffle are narrow NOW. They Image better but they lack in bass response. Answer, add a bass driver to the side of the structure. Problem, cabinet wobble.
Answer, separate cabinets, COLUMNS...Nothing better...

Regards