Thorens TD124 “Mk1”/Mk2 plinth


not sure where to start - which online forum, dealer, etc - but, does anyone know if the original and Mk2 use the same base/plinth?

Reason I ask is I see several plinths advertised for TD124 without specifying original or extra crispy.

Thanks in advance.

Norm

normb

To the OP: Woodsong Audio (Chris Harban) makes some beautiful plinths for the classic idlers, including the TD 124.  I have two of his creations, a Garrard 401 and a TD124.  The latter is in a figured mahogany - check my systems page for pictures.

The Woodsong plinth I saw was exquisite in terms of appearance.  I have not seen an Artisan Fidelity table, but the pictures look very promising.

lewm,

It sounds like you employed some pretty heroic measures to get your plinth to perform as you like.  You certainly know more than most how resonant behavior affects the sound.  This is a tricky business as it is not simply the case of reducing or increasing some measure of performance so much as getting it to a point where it sounds right.  I have a table/arm combination-Basis Debut vacuum clamp/Vector tonearm--that is designed to damp resonance to the utmost, and while I like how it sounds, others find it is to damped and "dead" sounding; it really is a matter of taste and system matching.

Lots of responses covering the TD-124 platters.  Does anyone have any concerns about the thin metal outer platter only making contact with the sub platter with 6 or 8 thin rubber discs?  The reason I point this out is that the sadly ignored Thorens TD-121 has a single one piece platter.  Of course, on the TD-121 you lose the braking mechanism, which, though handy when it worked, was fiddly and rattly. Also missing from the TD-121 was the strobe (and the near unobtainable neon bulb) and the speed change mechanism making the 121 essentially a single-speed ‘table though if you removed the platter you could reset the idler wheel to a different position and speed.  Other than those things I mentioned, the TD-121 was identical to the TD-124 including the magnetic speed trim mechanism on the intermediate wheel.  I bring all this up because the TD-121 was my first real turntable I bought in the late ‘60’s when I was in junior high school for $20 from a radio station converting to tape cartridges.  The turntable came set up for 16 2/3 RPM and was equipped with a 16” Audax tonearm, a hand built over-sized plinth, and a mundane Pickering pickup.  Luckily, a local shop called Stereoland had an Empire 980 arm with a Shure M3D already mounted on the requisite Thorens TD-121/124 tonearm board. Yes, they’re identical.  I used that rig, with many, many stylus changes well past my college years with a Dynaco PAS-3X/Stereo 70 combo and EPI 100 speakers.  That modest system easily blew away any Japanese setup that most of my dorm mates had though they all laughed at me for my Eisenhower-era acquisitions.  Even in the 70’s, they only knew vacuum tubes from their Grandpops’ Grundigs and Blaupunkts they brought back from Europe after WWII.  Except for a brief fling with a Dual 505, a table I likened to a puppy; cute, lightweight, and disorganized, I used that TD-121 rig until I blew up two credit cards on a big boy Linn LP-12/ Ittok/Troika setup in the late 80’s which I still use to this day. Thanks to a gift of a mint TD-124 equipped with the infamous Keith Monks arm, the unipivot  job with the 4 little open vats of mercury (!) for signal transfer and damping.  No wonder it was mint.  After some years and a call to the city who came out in hazmat suits and a special vacuum, I went about the total restoration and modernization of that TD-124. The motor had to be rebuilt twice, the second time by Schopper AG, along with new motor mounts, base mounting rubbers, belt, an aluminum idler wheel with a choice of black or red O-rings (they do sound different), a beautiful NOS Ortofon plinth, and a Panzerholz tonearm board with a new Ortofon TA-210 arm with 2M Bronze mounted to it.  After all that, that 124 was better than before but still noisy. So I moved the tonearm and board to my stock TD-121 and I was taken aback.  It wasbetter, much better actually.  Now with motor lubricated with STP (it did take a while to come up to speed 😆) the noise of the 121 was lower than the 124 and easy to ignore, like an evening in a quiet suburban area as opposed to the all out hot-rod TD-124 being more like New York City in the middle of a summer night, all air conditioning compressors and traffic noise.  My point of this long story is that with all those extra features of the 124:  the 2 piece platter, the linkages of the turntable brake, the extra metal parts involved in the speed change mechanism - none of these extra metal parts without any sort of damping involved - all add to intrusive noise without improving the sound, that an equal, but more simple device, the TD-121, is not hampered with.  Force and drive yeah, OK, but more modern designs, even ones from the late 80’s, are simply better at letting all the music, especially the gentle little details, get through.  
Thank you all of you whom read this through to the end.  I hope I didn’t ruin your breakfast!  Happy Listening!

Larry, I don't claim to know much about resonance control, except by observation and an attempt to apply some logic.  Also, I never know if I have achieved the best result possible based on the science.  I only go by what I hear. For example, I listened to the SP10 Mk3 in its heavy slate plinth alone,first and for several months. It sounded fine that way. Then I got into some conversations with Albert Porter who was kind enough to share some of his secrets, mainly as regards damping the platter bearing. That prompted me to add the cherrywood subplinth with the built in massive lump of brass to damp the bearing, and I do think the sound got "better".

Porchlight, When I decided I wanted to own an idler drive TT, I auditioned a Garrard 301, a Lenco L75, and a TD124.  All of them had been upgraded and tweaked, but given that each was in a different system and in a different listening room, etc, to make precise comparisons among the 3 would not be fair.  Nevertheless, I liked the TD124 least of all, and it wasn't a close call to eliminate it at the start, mainly due to noise.  So I don't doubt your impression that the TD121 may be superior. I subsequently acquired an NOS Lenco L75, dumped the plinth, the chassis, and the tonearm, mounted the works on a PTP3 top plate (see Lenco Heaven), had the platter sprayed with a dampening paint, had a 50-lb plinth made from PA slate, and added a Phoenix Engineering motor controller with Roadrunner tachometer, to drive the OEM Lenco motor.  Totally by the seat of my pants. The SP10 Mk3 and Lenco projects were fun, but I would never do it again, which is why I won't sell them.